Fine Backgrounders A98 A99

[rustyred]

I see that many of Al Stohlman's works on figure carving and pictorial carving show Craftool A98 or A99 being used to get into small corners that an A104 or matting stamp would not fit into. In Figure Carving Finesse, A98 is listed with pointed bevelers, as though it is the thin version of the checked pointed beveler F976. And the A99 is listed with the matting tools. But I haven't found any other writing by Stohlman to explain their correct usage. I know the A104-2 and even an A888-2 exists by some manufacturers to do detail work, also.

How do you use these stamps? Should they be used for beveling and matting as the book suggests? What are the benefits of the finer mesh on these tools?

[fredk]

I use the Axxx stamps as backgrounders and the Bxxx stamps as bevellers. B series bevellers are available with patterns on their faces

You 'walk' them thru a background turning and overlapping the impressions on each hit. They give the background a fine 'hatched' appearance making the main design standout. Hatching, in the way a pencil artist draws 

[Helenn]

The Craftool A98 and A99 are indeed used for getting into tight corners and adding detail that larger stamps like the A104 can't reach. Al Stohlman often used these tools for precision work in figure and pictorial carving. Using them for both beveling and matting might be beneficial as their fine mesh creates subtle textures and smooth transitions that enhance the carving's realism. The finer mesh of these tools allows for more delicate detailing, which is especially useful for intricate designs. Experimenting with pressure and angles can yield various effects to suit your project’s needs.

[rustyred]

Thank you both for your responses. What I'm starting to realize is that it's okay to think outside of the "prefix" on the stamp. Many non-bevelers can bevel if you use them in that way... Practice with the tool is what matters. When I look closely at my checkered tools I see many variables that impact the final performance.

I am interested to learn more about how these are made. When you look closely it seems like the vast differences in "checkering" could be due to different manufacturing processes. Pictures attached below. The two big variables seem to be between the "fineness" of the mesh and "deepness" that it is cut into the stamp. and it seems those two factors work against each other. It's hard to find a fine mesh with a deep cut grid.  Example is the coated steel F901 from Japan. You have to hit it really hard and even then the pattern is barely noticeable. Running your finger over the stamp, it is almost smooth.

I have an old no-prefix Craftool 900 that has some flat spots on the face. I don't know its history. Maybe it was accidentally bashed against the tooling stone? Or maybe just well used over time. It has what I would consider a medium-fine sized mesh.

Then there's this stainless steel figure matter from ZhongZiang. It has a finer mesh pattern than the 900 and deeper cut mesh than the F901. Will it keep the mesh pattern without flattening over the years? Time will tell.

I purchased a Craftool A98 at Tandy recently. But it's also not as small as I needed. I did find some similar stainless backgrounders from Sozo that are even smaller and slimmer. 

My conclusion is that the challenge is finding stamps with mesh "fineness" that matches the other stamps in your work AND cut deep enough to make a good impression AND are strong enough to keep making a good impression over years of stamping.