recommend a good rivet hammer?

[esantoro]

Can anyone recommend a good rivet hammer for the Ohio Travel Bags 310, 275, and 252 tubular rivets with caps?

Thanks,

Ed

[Justis Cases]

Can anyone recommend a good rivet hammer for the Ohio Travel Bags 310, 275, and 252 tubular rivets with caps?

Thanks,

Ed

Hi Ed,

Any old hammer will do the job if you just want to set the rivet, but to keep the radius on the cap you need to use the hand setting tool part #T1317 on page 2 of the latest OTB catalogue with a nice maul. I have used this method for 15 years on my cases.

[esantoro]

Hi Ed,

Any old hammer will do the job if you just want to set the rivet, but to keep the radius on the cap you need to use the hand setting tool part #T1317 on page 2 of the latest OTB catalogue with a nice maul. I have used this method for 15 years on my cases.

Those are beautiful cases.

I use the T1317 and other sizes for the jiffy rivets. But now I've started flattening the heads on these rivets. A regular hammer has too big a head and scuffs the surrounding leather. I just got an olympia tack hammer but it's head seems a bit light. I need a good tack/rivet hammer to set the steel tubular rivet caps, 11-cap and 40-cap on pages 4 and 5 of OTB catalog.

By the way, when these tubular rivet caps are set, should they be able to stil be turned, as long as the male post is flared out into the cap? I'm trying to determine the best method for setting these caps. How far past the surface of the leather should the male post extend?

Thanks,

Ed

[Justis Cases]

Those are beautiful cases.

I use the T1317 and other sizes for the jiffy rivets. But now I've started flattening the heads on these rivets. A regular hammer has too big a head and scuffs the surrounding leather. I just got an olympia tack hammer but it's head seems a bit light. I need a good tack/rivet hammer to set the steel tubular rivet caps, 11-cap and 40-cap on pages 4 and 5 of OTB catalog.

By the way, when these tubular rivet caps are set, should they be able to stil be turned, as long as the male post is flared out into the cap? I'm trying to determine the best method for setting these caps. How far past the surface of the leather should the male post extend?

Thanks,

Ed

Hi Ed,

I modified just about all the hammers I have by grinding a small radius on the head so that most of stricking surface is in the center of the head rather than around the edges. If you ever look at a cobblers hammer you will see the head has been radiused. This prevents leaving a marks on the leather.

I like to see the post extend about 1/32" above the leather surface for a good fit. It probably can be a little plus or minus without any problem. The main thing is not to have the post too long. Once the rivet has been set, you certainly should not be able to turn the cap. If you're able to do this, your not stricking hard enough.

Below are a couple hammers I use to set rivets if maintaining radius on the head is not important.

[esantoro]

Hi Ed,

I modified just about all the hammers I have by grinding a small radius on the head so that most of stricking surface is in the center of the head rather than around the edges. If you ever look at a cobblers hammer you will see the head has been radiused. This prevents leaving a marks on the leather.

I like to see the post extend about 1/32" above the leather surface for a good fit. It probably can be a little plus or minus without any problem. The main thing is not to have the post too long. Once the rivet has been set, you certainly should not be able to turn the cap. If you're able to do this, your not stricking hard enough.

Below are a couple hammers I use to set rivets if maintaining radius on the head is not important.

Jack,

Thanks for the photo.

I noticed you use the force-fit rivets on much of your work. Do you use brass or steel. I also use both of these rivets but I have a few applications that call for tubular rivets. These rivest are normaly peened; however, if both ends will be visible I like to put a cap on them. This cap is a self-peening cap. Have you ever worked with these?

Again, beautiful craftsmanship on your work. I'm going to make 1/32" clearance a rule instead of 1/16" or 1/8" which I've heard. I think too much clearance on my rivet sets have been my number one reason for unsatisfactory sets.

Ed

[Justis Cases]

Jack,

Thanks for the photo.

I noticed you use the force-fit rivets on much of your work. Do you use brass or steel. I also use both of these rivets but I have a few applications that call for tubular rivets. These rivest are normaly peened; however, if both ends will be visible I like to put a cap on them. This cap is a self-peening cap. Have you ever worked with these?

Again, beautiful craftsmanship on your work. I'm going to make 1/32" clearance a rule instead of 1/16" or 1/8" which I've heard. I think too much clearance on my rivet sets have been my number one reason for unsatisfactory sets.

Ed

Hi Ed,

Yes, I use only the solid brass Jiffy rivets from OTB. No one in the industry makes a better one that I have found. I ues over 20.000 per year and the quality is consistent. I think they are made in Belgium. The steel brass plated even tho much cheaper, will eventually lose the plating and become nickle in color. I have never used the double capped rivets as the post side does not show.

Thanks for the kind words.