Cantle binding stamping

[Lee Jr]

How about some help with cantle binding stamping or tooling. Before or after it is on? what thickness is the leather? were on the side is it cut from? i just covered a 2" cheyanne roll that I basket stamped before I put it on & it doesn't look so good after the stretch. Any helpful hints? Lee Jr

[steveh]

I stamp cheyenne roll bindings after they are sewn on the cantel. I use 9 to 10 oz thickness firm leather, middle of the hide above the belly..I establish border lines with dividers.Then layout a scroll pattern ,adding casing moisture as needed,cut it with a swivel knife, bevel, tool ,and background. . For a basket stamp I find center line between my border cuts, the center line changes as it narrows down where the cantel meets the seat, I take a stylus and blend the center line as it tapers down to the seat by eye. When you have a center line you layout you basket stamp at the correct angle just like stamping a belt. If you have a stout cantle filler it is not a real issue to stamp, it can be a little bouncey but you just have work with it.

Steve

[steve mason]

I will stamp the pretty much the same as Steveh does.

I think the thing that will help you the most is how you construct the whole bind in the first place. If all the layers of leather that make up the bind are of good quality and installed properly, the bind will be very firm and tight. I use a front and back cantle filler to help firm the bind up, there will 4 layers of leather before I put the final bind on. Then when installing the final bind keep the top leading edge as close as possible to the front of the cantle, then make your mark out to make your final cut depending on what width of a bind you would like. I see to many saddles where the leading edge of the bind is a 1/2" or more away from the front cantle edge, instead of 1/8" away. All this does is make a wider and weaker bind. I think in a perfect world the cantle bind will have no movement or wiggle when new, that way 10 years down the road it will still be a nice tight bind.

I have added a photo, notice how close the bind is to the front of the cantle. I believe that this makes a much stronger bind than having the leading edge back another 1/2" or more.

[Lee Jr]

I will stamp the pretty much the same as Steveh does.

I think the thing that will help you the most is how you construct the whole bind in the first place. If all the layers of leather that make up the bind are of good quality and installed properly, the bind will be very firm and tight. I use a front and back cantle filler to help firm the bind up, there will 4 layers of leather before I put the final bind on. Then when installing the final bind keep the top leading edge as close as possible to the front of the cantle, then make your mark out to make your final cut depending on what width of a bind you would like. I see to many saddles where the leading edge of the bind is a 1/2" or more away from the front cantle edge, instead of 1/8" away. All this does is make a wider and weaker bind. I think in a perfect world the cantle bind will have no movement or wiggle when new, that way 10 years down the road it will still be a nice tight bind.

I have added a photo, notice how close the bind is to the front of the cantle. I believe that this makes a much stronger bind than having the leading edge back another 1/2" or more.

Thanks for the tips, I will put it in my notes for the next cantle I do, many thanks, Lee Jr.

[kseidel]

Lee, I do not stamp my cheyenne rolls on the saddle but rather flat on the granite. Fit the cantle binding and mark all of your border lines. Make a few reference marks to replace in the exact location. Remove, flatten carefully, and allow to dry thoroughly. Tape the back where you will stamp with a heavy mil packing tape or duct tape (something that will not stretch and will stick well.) Wet and case, be careful not to stamp too wet! Stamp as you wish. Allow to dry thoroughly again before removing tape. Put a layer of cement on the back of the leather and let dry. Now apply a very light coat of oil to the surface. This will protect the tooling from distortion when you glue the binding onto the saddle. Wet well and glue onto the saddle, aligning with each reference mark. When wetting, most of the oil is displaced leaving the leather an original natural color.

This method was taught me by Tad Mizwah. It takes a bit of practice to master, but works well.

Keith

[Lee Jr]

Lee, I do not stamp my cheyenne rolls on the saddle but rather flat on the granite. Fit the cantle binding and mark all of your border lines. Make a few reference marks to replace in the exact location. Remove, flatten carefully, and allow to dry thoroughly. Tape the back where you will stamp with a heavy mil packing tape or duct tape (something that will not stretch and will stick well.) Wet and case, be careful not to stamp too wet! Stamp as you wish. Allow to dry thoroughly again before removing tape. Put a layer of cement on the back of the leather and let dry. Now apply a very light coat of oil to the surface. This will protect the tooling from distortion when you glue the binding onto the saddle. Wet well and glue onto the saddle, aligning with each reference mark. When wetting, most of the oil is displaced leaving the leather an original natural color.

This method was taught me by Tad Mizwah. It takes a bit of practice to master, but works well.

Keith

Thanks Keith, I apreciate the reply, Lee Jr