couple practices carvings

[Regis]

Here are a couple practices carvings from this weekend (and this evening). Trying to show rope hanging on the front of the ship is really a challange.

Trying to improve enough to make meaningful use of classes this fall at the Fort Worth show. Anyway, I appreciate tips on getting smoother and cleaner cutting and tooling.

Maybe by the end of the year I can sneak over and post in the Show Off forum

Regis

[Roger]

well..

looking at the leaf i see a couple things.

you need to work on walking your bevel a bit better and strike the tool more consistantly. i was told you should only move the bevel about 1/4th of it's width with each strike.

it also looks like you missed beveling in the swivel cuts in quite a few places. just wondering if the leather was a bit too wet or re-wet and the cuts closed up some making things more dificult

your decritive cuts need work and you have quite a few "ticks" where you cut a bit too far with your swivel knife.

[Regis]

I've been working on the "walking" but, do have a ways to go. Looking at leaf and reading your critique helps.

Thanks,

Regis

well..

looking at the leaf i see a couple things.

you need to work on walking your bevel a bit better and strike the tool more consistantly. i was told you should only move the bevel about 1/4th of it's width with each strike.

it also looks like you missed beveling in the swivel cuts in quite a few places. just wondering if the leather was a bit too wet or re-wet and the cuts closed up some making things more dificult

your decritive cuts need work and you have quite a few "ticks" where you cut a bit too far with your swivel knife.

[Roger]

I've been working on the "walking" but, do have a ways to go. Looking at leaf and reading your critique helps.

Thanks,

Regis

it is something that takes some time and understanding. i do find it easier to spot mistakes or areas for improvement from photos. i have started taking pics when i'm about done with tooling and study them for things i may have missed

[Regis]

Quote: "i have started taking pics when i'm about done with tooling and study them for things i may have missed"

That is a great idea. I see a lot more "problems" when carving is enlarged on screen. That leaf is about 3" X 3 1/2" in hand but, fills my computer screen.

Thanks,

Regis

[Dan Hammons]

Regis.

The most important tool you will ever own is your swivel Knife and The Blade In It . It sort of looks like the blade was draging and then jumping on you a bit and that would be signs of a dull blade.I'd rather have a sharp blade taped to a stick than a dull one in the best knife made. { My opinion} For me a ceramic blade is the way to go but they must be kept sharp .Your knife should sort of glide through the leather. I have had some leather that was just plain hard to cut and in desperation I took a very small amount of neadfoot oil and applied it to the surface of the cased leather and it seemed to help and it didn't dry as fast either.

Beveling is the second most important step to a good carving and we all do alot of it and I agree with what you have already been told but I would add that where those viens come together use your pointed beveler in there . Line it up and one decent tap with you mallet and on you go. Same thing with the points since you were carving inverted.

As far as the ship goes the beveling looks better. The knife cuts on the water is wrong as there are no definate line to cut. water flows the same as the sails on your ship. For things like that i may bevel lighty where I want my lines but for the most part use a smooth Pear shader .Start light and add where needed and your modeling spoon is your friend when it comes to figure or pictorial carving. Hope this helps and feel free to email me off list if you want .

[Regis]

Dan,

thank you for filling in some details for me......I really didn't have an idea how to handle the waves/water. I've heard about ceramic blades a number of times and may have to try one. I feel pretty good about how sharp and polished my knife is but, I have no way to compare drag. I don't think it is the leather. Now trying to create a better work place for carving and tooling as I've been standing and that's not comfortable for me.

Thanks again for sharing tips with detail like that.

Regis

[whinewine]

Regis:

what is the width of the blade you're using? Part of the problem might be with the size of the blade that comes with standard swivel knives... they most often come with a wide blade, which, for larger things, is fine, but for smaller things (like oak leaves & compact, swirly things like carved coasters and bag tags) they are simply too big for a beginner to master adequately. A suggestion might be to try a 1/4" blade, perhaps a small, hollow ground blade, even. My own preference is for a 1/4" angle blade (I use both ruby and steel, depending how each feels in the particular leather I'm carving- some leathers carve better with the steel & others with the ruby), or a smaller hollow ground blade. Try a nice, sharpened 1/4" blade & I think you'll see (and feel) a world of difference in your carving.

Another problem might be in the wetness of your leather when making your swivel knife cuts: too wet and too dry both create similar problems of controlling the knife & create unevenness, undercutting & overcutting (more-so if the leather is too dry- it creates a lot of drag which leads to loss of control. Leather that is too wet also leads to loss of control, not because of the drag, but because of the mushiness. ).

And no, they don't make ruby blades anymore.

And yes, I prefer steel over ceramic.

And yes, if you drop a ceramic blade, you've just thrown away $30. They're brittle.

And yes, I still, years later, have a problem with making decorative swivel cuts as nice as I would like them.

And no, I have no experience with titanium blades (I lost a post I had that indicated who to contact whomever sold them- I think it was one of the Tandy stores in Texas.)

If anyone has info on titanium blades, or, who has experience using them, Please post!

Thank you.

Russ

[Don101]

Hi Regis i took me a bit of time and practice to find out that i cut smoother controlled cut from right to left rather than left to right because of my wrist movement so what i do is cut a finished stroke and when i feel that its geting uncomfotable for me i turn the piece so my hand feels comfortable again it workes for me and try to keep the blade straight, i also feel more in controlle when im standing over the prodject rather sitting in front off it as movement can be restricted some times, i hope my coment help you out a bit as they work for me just find your style where you are most comfortable with .Don

[Regis]

This forum is just a wonderful resource. Good constructive help continues.

Thanks to all.

Regis

[Oscar B]

Regis

for a change on the rope use a model spoon on the outside of the lines and the rope will stand out. I know the cut lines are faster, but once and awhile I do something to stand out.

[mulefool]

Interesting comment by Don. I find I have to stand while I'm carving, too. I thought it was just me!