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  • Contributing Member
Posted (edited)

When dealing with dyes and finishes, I have found it helpful to make a test palette using scrap leather of the same quality used in tooling. Here are the palettes that I have made to use as a reference.

billb23__Medium_.jpg

billb24__Medium_.jpg

billb25__Medium_.jpg

billb26__Medium_.jpg

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post-5-1204425164_thumb.jpg

post-5-1204425182_thumb.jpg

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Edited by Johanna
reduced pic sizes

Bill B. Nead

  • Members
Posted

If your looking for an orange leather try siegelofca.com he has some and the leather is outstanding.

William Vaughn

wvleathercrafts.blogspot.com

www.myspace.com/wvleathercrafts

Member iilg.net

Novice 2nd place winner Geometric Contest iilg June 2007

  • Members
Posted

Thanks guys, thats really useful

Posted

make sure you ship the dyes to yourself when you get them since they probably won't let them on the plane.

frissenfrassenmussafrussen...

  • Members
Posted

Thanks for that drac, it didnt even occur to me.

  • Members
Posted

Prevail sprayers are a good inexspensive alternative to spray equipment if your not doing the volumn to justify the exspense of spray equipment.

To thin dyes you are best to get the solvent that the dye was made with. Dye stuffs can be pretty picky in terms of solubility. Some colors won't be a problem others will but if you buy the nuetral dye you can be more certain that you won't have a problem.

I just got a sample of LCI Aqua black and so far I am very impressed with the results I'm getting. It is waaaaaaaay better than the Fiebings version.

David Genadek

  • 1 month later...
  • Members
Posted

Some of my first projects really suffered from large streaks and blotches, and subsequently got darker and darker as I tried to cover my mistakes. Then I asked for some help... (before I found this site)

Here is a dyeing technique I have been experimenting with, as told to me by my Father in Law who worked in the leather biz for many years.

He uses a 3 bowl method. 1st bowl has dye in it. The second 2 have water in them.

Wet your leather with a damp sponge. Dip the sponge in some of the dye, then one of the water bowls and apply light coats. The water will allow you to build up layers of color without getting as much of the blotches and stripes. (or they'll be lighter anyway) icon1.gif

I have all but given up using the wool daubers, except for applying gum tragacanth to an edge. I usually buy my sponges from Trader Joe in the kitchen aisle and just cut about a 1" square for dying, then toss it out when I'm done.

This dye method has really worked for me, and I didn't even have to dig ot my old airbrush and get it going... Now if I can figure out that fangled digital camera we have I'll get around to posting some pics.

  • Members
Posted

I have a few pointers on my blog at

www.leatherlearn.com

Look on the right hand side and pick the Dye and Finishes category ...

JOhan

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  • Contributing Member
Posted

One of the things I've discovered is that some dyes are easily resisted by finger/hand prints. :thumbsdown: Cleaning the leather before adding color is definitly a good idea

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

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