Washroad Report post Posted January 16, 2009 I bought one of these... http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/de...ature=Product_2 and immediately screwed up a couple of projects. Some of it's my fault, I know. I can't get the center to have rounded edges and when making turns it tends to drag. Anyone have any hints? I really like the idea that I can make 2 lines at once that are paralelle (I know I spelled that wrong). Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dags3777 Report post Posted January 17, 2009 I purchased a ceramic blade and found the same problems. I hung around ebay and purchased a ruby blade, problem solved. Darryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg gomersall Report post Posted January 17, 2009 If you are not, try tilting the angle of your entire knife back more so lees of the blade length but more of the back edge of the blade is in the leather. Greg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Papa Leather Report post Posted January 17, 2009 I have found that the cermaic blades need alot of inital help in the stropping area before they are good to go. Once you get it right though they are good. The dual line blade I bought was the same as yours... it took awhile and some extra love to make work. Try using a rouge with aluminum oxide in it. Ceramic can contain aluminum oxide and silicon oxide. Using a rouge with aluminum oxide (too me) seemed to speed the process. I made a strop with a 1X4 and scrap leather, one side is glued with the flesh side up and use a stainless steel paste called Semi Chrome. The other side is flesh side down and I use the Koyo Green rouge. You can get it at Japanese woodworker supply. It is kind of expensive and you will NEVER use it all. I have it for my regular day job. It gives a semi aggressive cut on the blade but if you vary the pressure you apply to the blade you can end up with a blade with the machine grind marks out of it, then flip the strop board and polish. This is a manual method to get you where you want to be. My day job gives me the luxury of using a machine to sharpen that is great for any sharpening need, so I doctor my edges with it then move to the hand held strop as I carve. Also the dual line blade does require a bit more angle than a regular single line blade. Allen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted January 17, 2009 You know scissormedic I found the same thing with the ceramic blades. When I got mine I was really surprised at the cutting edge. I had scene a few ceramic knives that were stunning on how smooth and sharp they were. Now after about a hour of getting it dialed in it is great but they could of used a little better finish from the factory. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted January 17, 2009 I bought one of these...http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/home/de...ature=Product_2 and immediately screwed up a couple of projects. Some of it's my fault, I know. I can't get the center to have rounded edges and when making turns it tends to drag. Anyone have any hints? I really like the idea that I can make 2 lines at once that are paralelle (I know I spelled that wrong). Thanks! A double line will drag at a curve because the two blades have to cover different distances. The outer radius blade will cover more distance than the inner radius blade. I really think it's the inner blade that slows it down. But in any case, they are not in sync as far as the amount of actual cutting that they are doing. So you have to take extra care on a curve and remember that the two blades are not doing the same amount of work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Washroad Report post Posted January 18, 2009 Greg, Allen, Bree, Thanks for the suggestions! OK, back to the strop and find some scraps to practice. So far, not really happy with this blade but no other double-line blades are available anywhere (I've checked anyway). Practice, strop, practice, strop! I get it! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Go2Tex Report post Posted January 18, 2009 Putting a nice bead on a curve with any tool is not easy and I've considered investing in the 2 headed monster blade, but I have enough trouble keeping a single blade sharp. How in heck do you sharpen that double blade? It seems to me a good machinist would come up with a 2 blade system that comes apart for sharpening. It could maybe also be adjustable. hmmm..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
outcast Report post Posted January 18, 2009 So far, not really happy with this blade but no other double-line blades are available anywhere (I've checked anyway). Try Henley. I think the have double line/beader blades. I was gonna order from them, but now I may try a few tips on my ceramic first. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 18, 2009 (edited) Greg, Allen, Bree,Thanks for the suggestions! OK, back to the strop and find some scraps to practice. So far, not really happy with this blade but no other double-line blades are available anywhere (I've checked anyway). Practice, strop, practice, strop! I get it! Barry King makes bead blades, as well as Robert Beard. King Tools Beard Tools They are out there, you just have to find em. I have one of Barry's and it's 1/8" blade. Ask for the smaller shaft so it will fit in a tandy knife though. Edited January 18, 2009 by Rawhide Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Washroad Report post Posted January 19, 2009 Barry King makes bead blades, as well as Robert Beard.King Tools Beard Tools They are out there, you just have to find em. I have one of Barry's and it's 1/8" blade. Ask for the smaller shaft so it will fit in a tandy knife though. Thank you! I'm going to check them out. OK, now off to the accountant (my wife!) and let her know I'm going to spend some $$$! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 19, 2009 Thank you! I'm going to check them out.OK, now off to the accountant (my wife!) and let her know I'm going to spend some $$$! 'tis best to get permission first, 'cause they aren't cheap!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted January 21, 2009 I've toyed with the idea of purchasing a beader blade from time to time, but I always end up holding off. When I stop and think about it, a beader blade is designed to emulate a hand beader. The curve between the two blades is designed to produce the same rounded effect produced by the hand beader, however, I think hand beaders do a better job because you can actually burnish the bead, with a hand beader. That is difficult to do with a blade. If one is trying simply to cut two parallel lines, it's pretty easy to do by cutting one line, using a pair of dividers to mark the second line and then make the second cut. Good beader blades are expensive....I think I would rather have another size hand beader! Just a rambling thought from a different perspective.... Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Washroad Report post Posted January 21, 2009 I've been doing the "double-lines" for awhile now but I seem to make a screw up here and there that I thought a double-line blade would eliminate. The thing with the blade I purchased is it's very narrow, less than 1/8". I looked at the Beard tools; he has 3 different sizes for $60 each. I talked to the accountant. She said to save my allowance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Big Papa Leather Report post Posted January 21, 2009 Funny! Mine says the same thing We must have the same CPA Allen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
