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Posted
Can anyone post a finished piece that has used this process?

here ya go....

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Posted

Does the metal need to be real rusty? I used a gallon of white vinegar, and put in a small handful of nails that had some rust on them, let it sit and stew for about 4 days, couldn't see any difference in the vinegar, and all it did was get the leather damp.

I just tossed in a chunk of 000 steel wool that I have, and going to let it sit for a few more days, but didn't know if the rust was a key component??

Posted
Does the metal need to be real rusty? I used a gallon of white vinegar, and put in a small handful of nails that had some rust on them, let it sit and stew for about 4 days, couldn't see any difference in the vinegar, and all it did was get the leather damp.

I just tossed in a chunk of 000 steel wool that I have, and going to let it sit for a few more days, but didn't know if the rust was a key component??

I've never done this, but speaking as someone who's researched iron liquor as a mordant for dyeing textiles... yes, the rust is key. What you want is ferrous oxide: the rust. The vinegar opens the pores of the leather, and the ferrous oxide reacts with the tannins in the leather, turning it dark.

I want to make some of this myself, so my current cunning plan is to get some steel wool, wet it down and let it sit for a couple of days till it gets good and rusty, and then let it steep in the vinegar.

Posted (edited)
I want to make some of this myself, so my current cunning plan is to get some steel wool, wet it down and let it sit for a couple of days till it gets good and rusty, and then let it steep in the vinegar.

I think Chuck Burrows says you need to clean the oil off of the steel wool before putting it in the vinegar. I don't know what the reason is for this; does anyone else?

I don't have acetone (which I think is what he recommended for this), so I just attempted to wash off some #0000 steel wool with water and other cleaners. I don't think the oil was cleaned off sufficiently (I can now see oil of some sort floating on the top of the liquid), but I submerged three (I think) steel wool pads in apple cider vinegar anyway and covered the top of the jar with some folded plastic wrap with several holes in it. After just a few days, I could dip leather in or use a wool dauber to apply the solution to the leather, rinse it off, oil it, and it became quite black. It's actually a rather fascinating reaction -- a very cool process.

Anyway, that's my experience so far. ;)

L'Bum

Edited by Leather Bum
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Posted (edited)
Does the metal need to be real rusty? I used a gallon of white vinegar, and put in a small handful of nails that had some rust on them, let it sit and stew for about 4 days, couldn't see any difference in the vinegar, and all it did was get the leather damp.

I just tossed in a chunk of 000 steel wool that I have, and going to let it sit for a few more days, but didn't know if the rust was a key component??

go find some train tracks and get a few railroad spikes...always some laying around...your solution will be good 2 go in 2 days ;0)

darryl

p.s take out metal after its cured good...filter juice with an old t-shirt every so often as well...

Edited by sodapop

Darryl..."Imagination is more important than knowledge"...Albert Einstein...

Posted
I think Chuck Burrows says you need to clean the oil off of the steel wool before putting it in the vinegar. I don't know what the reason is for this; does anyone else?

I don't have acetone (which I think is what he recommended for this), so I just attempted to wash off some #0000 steel wool with water and other cleaners. I don't think the oil was cleaned off sufficiently (I can now see oil of some sort floating on the top of the liquid), but I submerged three (I think) steel wool pads in apple cider vinegar anyway and covered the top of the jar with some folded plastic wrap with several holes in it. After just a few days, I could dip leather in or use a wool dauber to apply the solution to the leather, rinse it off, oil it, and it became quite black. It's actually a rather fascinating reaction -- a very cool process.

Anyway, that's my experience so far. ;)

L'Bum

Acetone is easy to get -- it's nail polish remover. Just be sure to check the ingredients; some varieties are now made without it.

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Posted
go find some train tracks and get a few railroad spikes...always some laying around...your solution will be good 2 go in 2 days ;0)

darryl

p.s take out metal after its cured good...filter juice with an old t-shirt every so often as well...

That is a great idea. Thanks...

Also, I am wondering if this is something that you can just keep adding to as you go along, kind of like sourdough starter, or should you use it all up and make a new batch??

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Posted (edited)

you can just add to it...until its gets too diluted of course...use a test piece when in doubt and you'll know in seconds after ya dip it...or when you know you'd added x amount fresh vinager...just put the iron back in for a few days...like i mentioned, filter it every so often...cuz their will be iron crud that settles if ya don't...or some weird foam crap on the top in the beginning...but that will subside in time along with the funky smell...

even though my juice was effective in a couple of days...i didn't take the spikes out for a good 2 weeks or so...not until it was like a real dark tea...then removed them...

you'll get a feel for it once you've monkey'd with it a bit...no rocket science with vinagroon...

darryl

Edited by sodapop

Darryl..."Imagination is more important than knowledge"...Albert Einstein...

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Posted
I think Chuck Burrows says you need to clean the oil off of the steel wool before putting it in the vinegar. I don't know what the reason is for this; does anyone else?

Steel wool comes with a light oil coating. It's oiled to keep it from rusting while it sits on the store shelf (or at your shop in a jug of vinegar).

Dan

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