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Daggrim

29k58 success

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Hey folks. I posted here a few months ago about some problems with a 29k58, and received lots of encouragement. Well, I've been persistent, and it's finally paying off. Today I sewed up three pairs of turnshoes with virtually no problem. hooray (I rejoice humbly, because whenever I get cocky, something always goes horribly wrong).

Anyway, just one problem remains. On my 4th pair of shoes, made a with different leather, whenever I got to the part where 3 layers of 6 0z. leather overlap for about an inch, the machine would drop all the stitches. I decreased the foot tension as I crossed that area, which worked okay on the 5 oz. leather shoes, but not with this. Any other adjustments I'm missing? I went back over the spots a couple of times, and finally got enough thread jammed in there to hold, but it really sucks.

Thanks, Doug

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Greetings from another Doug (TZHunter) and another 29k58 owner/user. I also use a Tippmann Boss. Sounds like you may be reaching your max thickness for the 29k. I'm assuming that you've increased your stitch length to its maximum possible length (minimum # stitches per inch). You do that by loosening screw on back of presser foot and lowering it as far as possible (making sure presser foot can still be raised). If you've done that then only other things to try. . . make sure you are using a new needle. . . if you can moisten the leather a little with oil, it will help you be able to sew a little bit thicker with our machine. I'll be watching for others' advice. When I got to doing many projects that required over 3/8", that's when I got my Boss when they were on sale at Christmas 2 years ago for $1200 and included all the extras (presser feet, material guide, etc). Remember me as another 29k58 owner/user for other probs, I'll do the same.

TZHunter

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Hey folks. I posted here a few months ago about some problems with a 29k58, and received lots of encouragement. Well, I've been persistent, and it's finally paying off. Today I sewed up three pairs of turnshoes with virtually no problem. hooray (I rejoice humbly, because whenever I get cocky, something always goes horribly wrong).

Anyway, just one problem remains. On my 4th pair of shoes, made a with different leather, whenever I got to the part where 3 layers of 6 0z. leather overlap for about an inch, the machine would drop all the stitches. I decreased the foot tension as I crossed that area, which worked okay on the 5 oz. leather shoes, but not with this. Any other adjustments I'm missing? I went back over the spots a couple of times, and finally got enough thread jammed in there to hold, but it really sucks.

Thanks, Doug

Try the next (heavier) needle size , it might work. The problem, when you get skipped stitches, is that no thread loop is created for the shuttle hook due to too much resistance in the hole thru the leather. And sometimes patchers live their own life! Try a heavier needle!

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Hail the 29k58,also anowner/user. On the handle that raises the needle foot, to the right hand side there is a wing nut that is fixed to a height adjuster, H M L, when stitching thicker leather move this to H, and so on depending on material thickness, H should be able to stitch up to half inch thick. Also the leather belt can be moved between small wheel and large wheel, small wheel a top for heavy work, large wheel for light work, hope this helps.

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Alright...thanks for the replies. I actually already tried all the things you guys mentioned, except using some oil on the leather. How do I do that?

I should've mentioned one obvious thing. The leather is glued together with Barge cement, so this might be causing some drag.

In case I can't solve the problem, would it be possible to just hand sew that small section, using the holes my machine so conveniently made? And the second solution is to not buy that kind of leather again, once I've used it up. (That may not be a victory, but it's a good workaround)

Doug

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Sure, you can always hand sew that small area. I always kept a stitching awl handy when all I owned was the 29k, for those few places on a project where the seams get too thick. (~ $12 from Tandy)

re my tip to moisten with oil. .. you can also use water. . . anytime you moisten leather you will be able to compress it (or stretch) it a little as the fibers loosen. . . this might allow you to sew pieces that were a little thicker, but you must also remember that when it dries those stitches will be "really" tight.

TZHunter

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When you have something that thick, check to see if you have any tension on top. If the leather is too thick, it raises the tension disc just like the foot lift.

Kevin

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Jeeze, Kevin, you're right. Thicker layers raise the thread tension disc. So, that's going to make it drop the stitches? Any workaround, or is that my thickness limit?

And TZ, how much do you moisten the leather? Like with a small sponge or spray bottle? And a stitching awl has the triangular tip?

Thanks everybody for all the help! I'll post some pics of my turnshoes. These are a special order Jorvik Viking boot for a customer in Norway. He wanted an extra outsole put on, so I glued them on, and then put small Chicago screws in for added strength, and for traction on ice.

Doug

IMG_0897_edited.JPG

post-5329-1232428035_thumb.jpg

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Doug...

Try lubricating the thread with silicon thread lubricant. That will help reduce the friction and in may just help the hook pick up the loop.

The barge cement may very well be part of the problem. You might try leaving the stitch line uncemented.

I used to contact cement patches on and the 29K60 would sometimes pick up the glue as it passed thru. I would have to actually pull the glue off the needle at times. If the needle goes thru any kind of glue there is a chance of a problem especially if the glue is not bonded... active glue will stick to the needle and even the thread causing trouble. This would happen to me frequently if I was in a hurry and didn't allow the cement to fully dry.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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Bree, so you add the lubricant into the parafin tray?

Doug...

Try lubricating the thread with silicon thread lubricant. That will help reduce the friction and in may just help the hook pick up the loop.

The barge cement may very well be part of the problem. You might try leaving the stitch line uncemented.

I used to contact cement patches on and the 29K60 would sometimes pick up the glue as it passed thru. I would have to actually pull the glue off the needle at times. If the needle goes thru any kind of glue there is a chance of a problem especially if the glue is not bonded... active glue will stick to the needle and even the thread causing trouble. This would happen to me frequently if I was in a hurry and didn't allow the cement to fully dry.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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Doug,

Here's a link (at least address) to an ebay stitching awl like I use. . . you may find a better price, but this is the type of thing. . . . they normally come with 2 needles, 1 large, 1 small, both with triangular leather cut.

http://cgi.ebay.com/harness-repair-sewing-...p3286.m20.l1116

You can moisten leather a little over the small area you'll sew even with applying some moisture with your finger, not necessary to use a sponge or spray bottle.

I like Bree's idea of lubricating your thread better than my idea. . .I'd try that before I'd try moistening the leather.

TZHunter

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Bree, so you add the lubricant into the parafin tray?

You could certainly do that. Put some felt in the tray, run the thread across or even through a couple of layers, put the tensioner down and pour in some lube. Easy to do.

OR

Simply lube the thread with your fingers just before you get to the spot giving you trouble. That way you don't have lube on all the thread if you want to keep it free of the lube.

I have done both and have no preference personally.

:red_bandana::red_bandana::red_bandana:

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I use silicone in a spray can sometimes for items that drag on the bed of the machines. It is handy for many applications. I get it from a dress making shop.

Tony.

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TZ...wow, cool idea about the stitching awl. I have two of them, gotten as gifts, which I've never found a use for. Now I'm going to keep one with my 29k.

Bree...also a very neat idea. Qiuck and easy, no muss, no fuss.

You all have given me a big boost. Many thanks.

I've come a long ways since my first posts about that sewing machine. I'd especially like to thank Bree for telling me to keep on trying, as the machine was almost indestructible. I had some negative input from a local repairman who said I had the wrong machine, and that it was basically just an expensive anchor.

Hah! Sheer unglamourous dogged persistence has often won the prize. I may not be high speed, but when the sh*t storm's over, I'm still here.

Dag

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