Looking for a used cylinder arm machine

[Double U Leather]

Does anyone know of where I might find a reasonably priced cylinder arm machine. I'm getting some orders for briefcases and such, and the table top machine I have just doesn't really cut it. Thanks.

[bruce johnson]

To make the sharp corners on gussets easier you either need a machine that has a small cylinder or one that can be fitted with a stirrup plate. I have done them on a Tippmann Boss, Adler 205, and Ferdco 2000. If all you need a cylinder arm for is briefcases and your flatbed is doing everything else, a used Tippmann may be the most economical. They'll rebuild them if they wear and warranty them like new for not much money. I sure had good luck with mine. Otherwise you are getting up into the short arm machines at $2200 or a little better for an Artisan 3000. You might find the right used machine someplace too.

[TZHunter]

Bruce, I am using my Boss for Briefcases, etc. Had trouble making the corners, and was interested in what you said about possibly a stirrup plate helping. I'm sure I have it, cuz I got the deal a year ago where they threw in all the feet, material guide, and probably the stirrup plate. . . but I don't know what it is or what its used for, or most importantly, how it would help me make those corners easier. . .can you briefly explain? Thanks much for helping the ignorant (or at least uninformed!).

TZHunter (Doug)

[bruce johnson]

Doug.

The stirrup plate will have two raised ridges on either side of the slot. The top of these ridges will be rounded over front to back. The rounding over is a smaller radius than the cylinder arm itself. By raising it up and going over a smaller radius those corners will stay hooked better and roll over easier. Also you just have the width of the ridge to the left of the slot pushing the gusset leather over instead of the distance from the end of the cylinder arm to the slot.

[TZHunter]

Bruce, Thanks much. I'm gonna give that stirrup plate a try. . I'm sure it will make those 90 degree turns on 3/8 or 1/2 thick stuff much more possible and easier. To really benefit from this, doesn't this mean that the difficult area (like in my case a 90 degree corner) will need to be pointing down toward the stirrup plate when sewn? Seems logical that it wouldn't help any if the difficult area is pointing "away" from the stirrup plate, but just making sure I understood.

"Rookie" - didn't mean to hijack your thread, hope you find the right machine for your sewing.

TZHunter

[esantoro]

here are pictures of a stirrup plate and one picture of a holster plate.

ed

[TZHunter]

Thanks Ed. Since I don't sew much "western" stuff, the name stirrup plate made me think it probably wasn't something I'd use. . .but I can already tell it will help a lot on making those sharp corners.

[Doug C]

Ed or Bruce,

I have a sturrip plate like the one in the picture. I am not able to get my machine adjusted to work properly with the sturrip plate. My machine is skipping stitches. It seems like when the loop is formed when the needle is down there is an equal amount of thread on both sides of the needle eye. Is there some adjustment I can make to allow the hook to catch the thread loop.

Doug

[esantoro]

Ed or Bruce,

I have a sturrip plate like the one in the picture. I am not able to get my machine adjusted to work properly with the sturrip plate. My machine is skipping stitches. It seems like when the loop is formed when the needle is down there is an equal amount of thread on both sides of the needle eye. Is there some adjustment I can make to allow the hook to catch the thread loop.

Doug

I have similar troubles with the stirrup plate and usually just stick with the holster plate. The best I can figure is that needle sizes 200 and smaller may have too much deflection after passing the surface of the stirrup plate. A 230 needle seems much thicker than even a 200 needle and probably deflects less. I usually don't use these plates for actual stitching, just to punch the 12 or so holes to get around corners,which are handstitched.

So, in short, I'd also like to know if there's a fix. Bruce?

ed

[bruce johnson]

The first stirrup plate I had was on a Boss, and never had a skipping problem with it. The Adler I had was a 205-64 and since I had the stirrup plate for the Boss, the Boss was relegated to the bags with corners. I sewed on a 205-370 clone for a while and it had a plate that worked for the corners. When I ordered the Ferdco 2000, I got it with the package, the Boss got sold, and have not had a skipping problem there either. I am thinking it may be that the plate is binding the thread when it goes down through the slot? Make sure the needle is hitting the middle of the slot. Other than than, the thread should loop and catch just the same as with a normal harness plate. Needle deflection shouldn't be any more with the stirrup plate than a regular plate. Thinking more here, another thing may be that the stirrup plate is less stable as a platform, and if you are running a double toe foot or left toe it may be deflecting the leather to the left of the slot, pushing it down, and adding some deflection to the needle? I have to run a right toe foot or boot/case foot with my stirrup plate because the right side is wider. I am liking the boot/case foot better now that I have that. You have to be pretty steady how you hold the bag with the stirrup plate, it will rock front to back which is nice to sneak around the outside of those tight corners. It will also tend to rock side to side becasue ot the narrow left side and can get you a wavy line on the bottom of the stitch if you aren't paying attention. The Artisan guys probably have some more insight too. What machine are you running?