stropping

[Big Papa Leather]

To add to what ATX was saying on the ceramic blades, I use an aluminum oxide disc to remove the grind, machine marks on the ceramic blades. It is a motorized unit so it makes a very tedious job easier. As far as sharpening the ceramics, it can be done and it is possible with the aluminum oxide, however it is a very hard process as the aluminum oxide disc wears extremely quick. I have a limited number of diamond disc that will do the job quickly but it is not very cost effective. In order to "sharpen" or to change the angle of the ceramic blade is tough. I prefer to call the work I did for the guild members and thier ceramic blades is "hone". I followed the existing angle and focused only on removing the machining marks. This allows the blades to glide through the leather with little effort.

Allen

[tonyc1]

Troy,

I've used the ruby blades years ago until I learned to sharpen my steel blades. I don't think they offer any advantage at all. If you were able to improve them with your GRS sharpener, maybe they'd be okay. In my opinion, they were inferior, right out of the package.

Bob

What is a GRS sharpener?

Tony.

[TroyWest]

What is a GRS sharpener?

Tony.

grstools.com is the web site. I'd do a link but I'm too illiterate.

Click on sharpening and then power hone

It's called a power hone. Works like a small record player . Costs about $380.00 for the hone, about $90.00 per diamond disc in 300, 600, and 1200 grit and the stand which holds your bits for another $100.00. It's too pricey to purchase for sharpening swivel knife blades, but, if you already have one, it's handy for sharpening them, and I can change the angles on the blades to whatever I want.

[TroyWest]

Troy,

I've used the ruby blades years ago until I learned to sharpen my steel blades. I don't think they offer any advantage at all. If you were able to improve them with your GRS sharpener, maybe they'd be okay. In my opinion, they were inferior, right out of the package.

Bob

Well, that's good to know Bob. I'm quite happy with the steel blades I'm using. Your the first person to say anything negative about the ruby blades so it had my curiosity up, and I'm pretty sure I could sharpen a dull one on these diamond wheels.

[TroyWest]

To add to what ATX was saying on the ceramic blades, I use an aluminum oxide disc to remove the grind, machine marks on the ceramic blades. It is a motorized unit so it makes a very tedious job easier. As far as sharpening the ceramics, it can be done and it is possible with the aluminum oxide, however it is a very hard process as the aluminum oxide disc wears extremely quick. I have a limited number of diamond disc that will do the job quickly but it is not very cost effective. In order to "sharpen" or to change the angle of the ceramic blade is tough. I prefer to call the work I did for the guild members and thier ceramic blades is "hone". I followed the existing angle and focused only on removing the machining marks. This allows the blades to glide through the leather with little effort.

Allen

I understand what your saying Allen. My brother traded for some tools once and got a snuff can full of swivel knife blades. One of them was the ceramic blade. We had it for several years until I decided to try it out. I dont remember it having those marks so whoever had it before me had already removed them.

[Stan]

Caution Re Ruby blades: I know of several that have "popped" off and been lost, with the base looking very lonely. I think what is happening is the glue is starting to fail with age. When one considers the collector value and how really good the new steels are, I'd be careful using a ruby blade. Stan

[Billy P]

I have a 1979-1980 Tandy catalog and the Ruby Blades are listed in it. 1/4 in. angle or straight $5.95 + shipping. Billy P

[whinewine]

I have a 1979-1980 Tandy catalog and the Ruby Blades are listed in it. 1/4 in. angle or straight $5.95 + shipping. Billy P

Amazing how the mind slips over time (y'know, the 'good old days' scenario, where we remember stuff that never happened, like "when I was a kid we walked 8 miles to school all year round, every day, up hill, both ways, in blinding snowstorms..." ??.).

I thought I paid around $30 for my ruby then... Oh well... Just in curiousity, Billy, what were the prices of the standard blades then?

russ

[DaveT]

I tried the ruby blades too, along with the sapphire blade (Blue stone) that Tandy sold. As I recall, Ruby is actually a particular type of Sapphire, if I can trust my jewelery store manager brother-in-law. (Yes, it makes Christmas shopping for my wife really easy) The problem with most of the Ruby blades is the glue failing and the stone falling off. A ceramic blade is about as hard, and doesn't require sharpening as often. Yes, it should be stropped, same as steel, to remove the build up of the chemicals from the leather. (I've heard them called sugars? It is sticky after cutting a while.)

I've resharpened ceramic blades that were damaged using a dremel tool with a thin cut off wheel. Held the blade against the flat side of the wheel like a grinder. Then a final polish on 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and stropping on white rouge. Worked pretty well and salvaged a blade. Which I then sold, since I prefer the Henley knives and steel blades. The only real advantage to a ceramic blade is hardness, and that means no sharpening under normal use. If you are comfortable sharpening a knife, then you can actually get steel sharper than the ceramic. If ceramic were really the best, I'm pretty sure Bob Beard would be selling them. <grin>

Not trying to stir the pot, just my opinion.

Dave T.

[Billy P]

Hey Russ, I looked at the price list for the swivel blades they ranged from 1.25 up to 1.95 for the hair blades. The 1/4 filigree blades were 1.75 and the 1/4 angle blade was 1.50 back then. They had a Harley wing buckel for 4.95 and it was the real Harley endorsed one at that. Just a few things from yesteryear, that I/we all wish could be found again. Later Billy P.