Stringman Report post Posted February 19, 2009 This is my first post on the forums. I'm overwhelmed by the amount of information available. Thanks to all who post. My first braiding project will be a dog leash (4-strand with a nylon cord core). I've looked at Myriam's tutorial (have it bookmarked and printed out). The question I have has to do with attaching the leash to the snap ring. In Myriam's tutorial, she shows using thread to attach the cord to the snap ring and then start the braid on top of that covering the thread. I've also seen other leashes where the leash goes up through the snap ring and is back-braided (right term?) to form the loop. Which one is preferable and would the technique be the same as finishing off the leash handle? I have an 11 pound dog, so it probably doesn't make a difference, but with a bigger dog, is only having two strands of lace covering the snap ring a problem? Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhide1 Report post Posted February 20, 2009 Stringman When I braid something that goes through a snap or ring. I like to run the finished braid through the ring and back braid. I then like to cover this with a turkshead. I also like to put a boot (wear strip) on were the snap will be touching the leather.The reason I do this is for strength and also that is usually a high wear spot from the leather always rubbing on the snap. It can make a person pretty sad when they put all the time and effort into braiding something and it wears out before it's time. Once again this is just my opinion and as my daddy always said there's more than one way to skin a cat!! Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
karen Report post Posted February 20, 2009 Stringman, I too like to back braid. When I'm using a kevlar core, I also incorporate the kevlar into the back braid. I then use a turkshead knot to cover the back braid area. When I did my first leash, I didn't use this method and I feel that the snap area is the weakest area on the leash. Not good when you have a dog that can exert at force of over 100#. Karen Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted February 22, 2009 Stringman, I too like to back braid. When I'm using a kevlar core, I also incorporate the kevlar into the back braid. I then use a turkshead knot to cover the back braid area. When I did my first leash, I didn't use this method and I feel that the snap area is the weakest area on the leash. Not good when you have a dog that can exert at force of over 100#. Karen I agree with both replies and I'd like to add that I back braid under at least 3 strands. I saw a lady hook up a cute little 'roo show lead to her 110 lb GSD and before the dog's hind legs cleared the crate, the lead had failed at BOTH ends. I've towed my pickup using a 4 strand 'roo showlead with a para chord core. g'luck Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Esson Report post Posted February 24, 2009 Okay so this is my second post and am learning. My question is: you END your dog leash with it attaching to the snap ring? I at first was under the impression you would start it with the snap ring? Thanks for any and all reply's Esson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 24, 2009 I start in the middle. I braid the total length I need, wash it, let it dry a bit, then roll it. Next I do a turnback for the handle (7")and the snap (1") and finally I roll it one more time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Esson Report post Posted February 25, 2009 I start in the middle. I braid the total length I need, wash it, let it dry a bit, then roll it. Next I do a turnback for the handle (7")and the snap (1") and finally I roll it one more time. Okay, more dumb questions..........."WASH IT?" "Next I do a turnback for the handle??" Okay, I'm assuming "turnback means back braid?? What about wash it? And why?? Thanks! Esson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 25, 2009 OK, maybe I should have written "rinse it", but since soap is involved I think of wash. I rinse the saddle soap off and towel dry. You are putting saddle soap on your strings aren't you? I thought I read that. And the leash rolls best when its a tad damp. I let it dry about 45 minutes or so before I roll it. Yes, a turnback is a back braid, my mentor used the term "turnback" so of course that's what I use. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Esson Report post Posted February 25, 2009 OK, maybe I should have written "rinse it", but since soap is involved I think of wash. I rinse the saddle soap off and towel dry. You are putting saddle soap on your strings aren't you? I thought I read that. And the leash rolls best when its a tad damp. I let it dry about 45 minutes or so before I roll it. Yes, a turnback is a back braid, my mentor used the term "turnback" so of course that's what I use. No I haven't even tried braiding one yet but soon so no, no soap involved. What would the saddle soap do for braiding a dog leash with deer skin thongs though? I see on the "turnback" now thanks! Esson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 25, 2009 As far as I know most braiders use something to make the string more workable and from what I've read most use white saddle soap. Something different is used with rawhide. You might need it more so for deer skin. I have 1 pretty weak kangaroo hide and when I'm tightening a button I add a bit more saddle soap to be sure it slides nicely to reduce the chance of it breaking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted February 25, 2009 Esson, if you've got an REI store near you, pick up some NIKWAX. I've used a homemade soap and it tears up my finger tips. I've heard an old-timer in Australia talk about using regular hand lotion also. Main thing is to keep the thongs supple and they will slide into place easier. I don't wash them - only for fear of having the core rot out - but I do rub them down good after I've rolled them. g'luck and take your time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Esson Report post Posted February 26, 2009 Esson, if you've got an REI store near you, pick up some NIKWAX. I've used a homemade soap and it tears up my finger tips. I've heard an old-timer in Australia talk about using regular hand lotion also. Main thing is to keep the thongs supple and they will slide into place easier. I don't wash them - only for fear of having the core rot out - but I do rub them down good after I've rolled them. g'luck and take your time. PERFECT!! Yes we have an REI here in Bend. I plan on starting a first project with deer skin, it's very strong (stronger than the 1/8" suede I've been practicing with) but very limp. My mentor say's he doesn't recommend any soap on deer skin as it soft enough to work with? Any input here? Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 26, 2009 Kangaroo and goat are soft too but I'd still use soap. Like Spence said it helps the string slide into place. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
