rawhider Report post Posted February 26, 2009 Just finished the knots this afternoon. Gotta get the romal braided and knoted up, then she's ready to ship. These are the first rawhide romals that I've built with a leather heart, and I really like the feel so far. They have a really nice weight to them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
megabit Report post Posted February 26, 2009 SWEET! What do you generally use for a core? or do you generally make them without a core? I think I recall grant saying reins don't necessarily need a core. I cut some string last night, think I may make a hat band. Gota start small. :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhider Report post Posted February 26, 2009 I usually braid a rawhide core. That makes the reins a little lighter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) I usually braid a rawhide core. That makes the reins a little lighter. How many plaits for the core? heck how many plaits for the reins... Beautiful work!! Now isn't the plaiting square or flat on anything over 6 plait if a core isn't used? Edited February 27, 2009 by entiendo Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhide1 Report post Posted February 27, 2009 rawhider Nice looking work!! I cant wait to see the finished result! Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shelly Report post Posted February 27, 2009 I use round leather cord for core material - same as what Louis Ortega used in his...(I have some of his core material that was measured off for reins, romals, and graded on each small tag - written in Rose Ortega's handwriting)...! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shelly Report post Posted February 27, 2009 Also, 12 plait on the reins, with a 16 plait on the romal, makes for a nice, useable set that is good for everyday as well as show - collector type sets will be braided with more, finer strands...i.e: 24 plait Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhider Report post Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) I did 8 plait on the reins, the romal will be 12. I like using the leather cord, I'd like to find a place where I can buy sewing machine cord. I've been making my own round cord, so it would save time buying it. On my braided cores, I just do a 4 strand braid. Edited February 27, 2009 by rawhider Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhide1 Report post Posted February 27, 2009 rawhider Oregon leather (541) 343-2563 sells it by the foot or by the spool (100') Prices were 3/16"- $1.45 a foot or 100' for $125.00 1/4"-$1.85 a foot or $164.00 for 100 foot 5/16- $2.95 a foot or $260.00 for a 100 ' It seems high but it beats making your own. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
flathat4life Report post Posted February 27, 2009 (edited) Nice work as usual Rawhider.. look forward to seeing 'em finished Jed Edited February 27, 2009 by flathat4life Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
greg gomersall Report post Posted February 27, 2009 Panhandle Leather in Amarillo sells it as well. Greg Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
millwright Report post Posted February 28, 2009 That's some nice work. Someone will be proud to get those. I was curious as to what you have in mind to connect the reins to the bit. I don't notice any kind of latch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhider Report post Posted February 28, 2009 THis particular style of rein is attached to the bit with chains. This gives the reins some weight which in turn makes the release of the reins quicker, so that the horse gets signal faster. They are to be used with spanish style spade bits. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
megabit Report post Posted February 28, 2009 THis particular style of rein is attached to the bit with chains. This gives the reins some weight which in turn makes the release of the reins quicker, so that the horse gets signal faster. They are to be used with spanish style spade bits. What is this "SPADE BIT" you speak of? Did I tell you I have a new custom made one on order? Now I need to get a bosal and start moving my mare in that direction. Spent all day in the saddle today, first day of the three day riding clinic. Rode most of the day in a rope halter, don't think the hackamore is going to be a problem. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhider Report post Posted February 28, 2009 "Vat iz dis Zpad Beet?" HA! That's awesome, who did you order from? I gotta sell more erins before I can afford a new bit! Who's clinic are you at? I miss being able to ride every day. I want my own place so bad, but I know even then with the shoeing and the braiding I'd probably not get to ride as much as I'd like. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 28, 2009 I've given up on bosals, I've never been able to find one that works in a way that I like. The cue is sloppy and more often than not it rubs the horse raw somewhere. Here's what I use...Of course I did the decorating the bridles come plain and I couldn't have that being a braider and all... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
megabit Report post Posted February 28, 2009 "Vat iz dis Zpad Beet?" HA!That's awesome, who did you order from? I gotta sell more erins before I can afford a new bit! Who's clinic are you at? I miss being able to ride every day. I want my own place so bad, but I know even then with the shoeing and the braiding I'd probably not get to ride as much as I'd like. I have SteveM over at RanchingCountry making the bit. Kim is sending one of her's that Richard C designed to copy. I think mine is going to be sort of a prototype of new bits for Richard (his normal maker is so busy he can't get them as quick as he would like). The clinic is John Moore, he seems very good. He has a deep understanding of the history of this stuff and I am very interested in that too. http://www.johnmoore4horses.com/ One of the real good things for me is my trainer is in the clinic too, so I will get on going support with the concepts.:D I've given up on bosals, I've never been able to find one that works in a way that I like. The cue is sloppy and more often than not it rubs the horse raw somewhere. Here's what I use...Of course I did the decorating the bridles come plain and I couldn't have that being a braider and all... Not very traditional for a California Bridle horse though. I think part of the point of the hackamore is that it isn't as effective as a bit and forces you to use your seat and not just your hands. Nice looking job on decorations by the way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 28, 2009 Not very traditional for a California Bridle horse though. I think part of the point of the hackamore is that it isn't as effective as a bit and forces you to use your seat and not just your hands. Nice looking job on decorations by the way. Now traditionally does the horse go in a bosal first or a snaffle bit? Nothing wrong with changing tradition a little if it works better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhider Report post Posted February 28, 2009 A properly made and adjusted bosal has a quicker release then anything else used over the nose. It's all in how they are built. Traditionaly the bosal was used first, then the Two-rein, then straight up in the spade. The more I use the hackamore, the more i'm convinced I'll never go back to the snaffle for my own horses. What Megabit said is correct, your hands and body have to be working properly to get the correct response out of the horse. People often try the traditional hackamore, find out that the horse doesn't respect it, them move to a "Bit-less" bridle or a mechanical hackamore in order to get the right response. If used correctly, the traditional hackamore will make the softest most sensitive horse that you've ever seen. Which is why it's used first in progression to straight up in the bridle. That softness and sensitivity is key to the spade. MB: I'm glad to hear that Steve makes bits too. I'm gonna have to have him make one for me after he gets yours done. I've been watching Richards DVD, lots of great info there, I'd recomend getting it to anyone who is interested not only in the history of traditional gear, but it's proper fit and function. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 28, 2009 A properly made and adjusted bosal has a quicker release then anything else used over the nose. It's all in how they are built. Traditionaly the bosal was used first, then the Two-rein, then straight up in the spade. The more I use the hackamore, the more i'm convinced I'll never go back to the snaffle for my own horses. What Megabit said is correct, your hands and body have to be working properly to get the correct response out of the horse. People often try the traditional hackamore, find out that the horse doesn't respect it, them move to a "Bit-less" bridle or a mechanical hackamore in order to get the right response. If used correctly, the traditional hackamore will make the softest most sensitive horse that you've ever seen. Which is why it's used first in progression to straight up in the bridle. That softness and sensitivity is key to the spade. My point is that most bosals are to HARSH...Now your right fit and make is everything but it appears most horse people do not fit their bosals properly or they can't afford a nicely made one, whatever the case is the horse suffers. I've never seen a horse that doesn't respect a bosal but I've seen a few that have been abused by one and even more that have been abused by mechanical hackamores. I hate those things. You are lucky to be able to make your own! So this fancy little bitless I have have is perfect because it fits a broader range of horses, it's easier for the average horse person to properly fit, and it's much more difficult to turn into an instrument of abuse. *I* also think my cues to the horse are much more clear but that's just my opinion. That said I'd like to make a bosal, but I'd like to use something more giving for a core...We'll see, I'm not ready for that yet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Bell Report post Posted February 28, 2009 Entiendo, Que Paso no Etiendes? The bosal just SIT THERE on the horses head! It can not be harsh it has no way to do anything. It is an inanimate object! It is the hands of the rider that decides whether or not a bit or bosal is harsh. Are you saying that in your hands a bosal is just to harsh? Then LIGHTEN UP!!! LOL Vaya Con Dios, Alan Bell Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rawhider Report post Posted February 28, 2009 Ha that's funny! I'm sorry, entiendo, but Alan is right. There is no way that a bosal can be harsh unless you are using it incorrectly. As for people who don't know how to fit a bosal properly or where to find good ones, it's our job to educate them. I'm glad that your bitless bridle works well for you. I'm sure it's much better for your horse that you use that and not a bosal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted February 28, 2009 Ha that's funny! I'm sorry, entiendo, but Alan is right. There is no way that a bosal can be harsh unless you are using it incorrectly. As for people who don't know how to fit a bosal properly or where to find good ones, it's our job to educate them. I'm glad that your bitless bridle works well for you. I'm sure it's much better for your horse that you use that and not a bosal. *Where is the smilie face there it's pulling it's hair out* I'm not talking about my own horsemanship, I'm talking about the average owner. Maybe it is all about education but educating the hands is very difficult and a bosal can be a harsh tool. Most never work hard enough to develope the timeing of the release. And most your Vaquero spade bits are not use properly either. Many are use as a tool of leverage rather than a way of quitely communicating with a horse. Anyway, are both of you telling me you never made a horse bleed under the chin where the bosal sits? Not only that a snaffle allows for much better side to side commuincation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan Bell Report post Posted February 28, 2009 If the horse is scratched up under it's chin it is notthe bosal that caused it but the person! And yes i have. But with that same bosali have also started one that did not get scratched and right now i have a colt that has a blaze face and in the summertime his nose will scratch with the same bosal that I've used on him and 2 other horses that have never been scratched! You are still not thinking about the bosal or the bit in the correct manner. A snaffle pulled equally on both reins will scissor the horses jawbone like a nutcracker and then the hinge in the middle will poke the colt in the roof of its mouth! But it is the rider that causes that to happen NOT the snaffle. Far more horses become head tossers and nose pokers because of improper use of the snaffle than the bosal has ever seen Vaya Con Dios, Alan Bell Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
entiendo Report post Posted March 1, 2009 You are still not thinking about the bosal or the bit in the correct manner. A snaffle pulled equally on both reins will scissor the horses jawbone like a nutcracker and then the hinge in the middle will poke the colt in the roof of its mouth! Vaya Con Dios, Alan Bell Yep, sure does that's why I don't use my snaffles with 2 reins...And I think that's why the snaffle with a link in the middle is so popular. I just don't like to worry about rubbing those horses raw under the chin. If I didn't have to worry about that I would probably use a bosal from time to time, depending on the horse. However I teach one rein cues before I move onto 2 reins so I would use the snaffle first. Course with my nifty little bitless pictured above it is designed to work with 1 rein or 2, and I really like that. Course it does have one design flaw I do not like. The maker wants the nose band pretty snug, kind of like an English noseband and it doesn't allow for much jaw movement. So needless to say I don't use the bridle until my horse can wear the noseband somewhat loose. And it's always the uneducated hand that makes the head tossers and nose pokers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
