Members Opagon Posted March 9, 2009 Members Report Posted March 9, 2009 If looking at slickfork's set up - Which is so cool!!! - you can see that it cuts on the outside edge. The lace master needs a hole cut into the center of the hide and then you work your way back out. I really hate having to cut a hole in the center of my expensive hides wasting a bit of the best part. grrrr.... Keeping Braiding, Heather Quote www.opagonfarm.com
Members skip Posted March 9, 2009 Members Report Posted March 9, 2009 Hey Slikfork could you show a picture without the leather so we could see how you mounted the board? I have to get a better look so I can make the board myself. I too have the Hansen String Cutter but would be nice to see how others use it as I am still learning to use it for making my strings. Quote
Members slickfork Posted March 9, 2009 Members Report Posted March 9, 2009 Hey Slikfork could you show a picture without the leather so we could see how you mounted the board? I have to get a better look so I can make the board myself. I too have the Hansen String Cutter but would be nice to see how others use it as I am still learning to use it for making my strings. Sorry about that...tried to attach this pic too, (I hate computers...) Hope this makes it clearer...if you need more pictures/ explaination let me know. It's not fancy, but sure works good. My Hansen is probably 20+ years old.... I actually own a LaceMaster too...I find they are both very useful, just depends on what you're making. I use the Hansen for rough cutting strings from a disk, (with the table attachment) MUCH EASIER for me to cut string from the outside of the circle in -- than from the center of the circle out-- as is done with the LaceMaster and I think I have less waste. I use the Hansen for HEAVY splitting (thick- medium leather / rawhide) I also find it's easier for me to bevel with. I modified my Hansen ... had a friend with a milling machine put an additional angle cut though the main bar so I have two different beveling angles to choose from. The LaceMaster is better for making fine strings (after the initial rough cut) in fact, it was Frank Hansen himself who talked me into buying the LaceMaster at the Pendelton Leather Show. The splitter on the LaceMaster works great for Kangaroo and thin rawhide. The fact that it uses razor blades instead of a blade you have to sharpen is convenient and the sharper blade does a prettier job on fine stuff. It's also handy that you can change strings without loosing your thickness setting. The beveler on the LaceMaster is a little tricky. Probably just need to practice with it more. If I had to choose just one....I'd probably get the Hansen... Quote
Members rawhider Posted March 9, 2009 Members Report Posted March 9, 2009 Thanks for the pics, Slickfork! I'll have to make me one of those!! Quote
Members Maeve Posted March 10, 2009 Members Report Posted March 10, 2009 OMG! You guys have just made my day! How simple and yet the solution has evaded me for YEARS! I JUST (as in this morning) picked up a bunch of hides at the post office. And now I am too excited to go and get cutting! My tables in my work room are set up PERFECTLY for this method of cutting! All I have to do is to turn my blade around, move the collar fence and GO! Sheesh. That is a slap the forehead moment if I have ever had one before! LOL! Thanks for all of the great discussion! You never know what light bulb you are going to turn on! LOL! Love and Light, Maeve Quote
Members skip Posted March 10, 2009 Members Report Posted March 10, 2009 Thanks Slick Fork those pictures were just the ticket for me to understand what i need to do to make my own little table. it's a great tool. thanks again Quote
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