Newbies First Holster...Fire Away!

[JRB]

I think most of the high points have already been hit on.

On the sight channel, I use the body of an ink pen (like a bic). A pen was handy on the first one I did, seemed to work, so I continued using it.

On the stitching, the guide that was suggested to me when I started was to measure the width of the gun, divide that in half and add about 1/16". That is how far your stitch lines should be from the outline of the gun. This has been pretty close for me on semi autos using 7/8 oz. leather. Not as easy on a revolver since it's not as clean of shape.

Keep it up and you'll keep improving. I've done 4 or 5 holsters and I think each one is getting better.

[skippy]

thats very nice...like the colour a lot.

a quick question as im a newbie as well,how does the neatsfoot oil effect the leather,i was told not to use it as it would soften the leather...has yours softened or not.

cheers mate

[Lobo]

thats very nice...like the colour a lot.

a quick question as im a newbie as well,how does the neatsfoot oil effect the leather,i was told not to use it as it would soften the leather...has yours softened or not.

cheers mate

The vegetable tanning process removes most of the moisture from a hide. Wet-forming further dries the leather. Neatsfoot oil replenishes the moisture, providing some protection against cracking during the flexing and stretching during use. Neatsfoot oil also provides some protection from moisture infiltration from humidity and perspiration.

Neatsfoot oil can easily be overdone and too much will make any leather article limp and useless. I use a single application to the smooth surfaces only right after the formed holster has dried completely, then allow the oil to settle in overnight. It will migrate through the leather and reach a balanced level of infusion.

Neatsfoot oil will significantly darken any dyed leather. I recommend experimenting on scrap leather to get the result that you want before proceeding with actual production.

There are others who will argue against any use of neatsfoot oil on formed holsters, and that is fine with me. I have been using this process for 38 years with excellent results, and many of my holsters remain in service after more than 30 years of use, so I will continue.

[katsass]

The vegetable tanning process removes most of the moisture from a hide. Wet-forming further dries the leather. Neatsfoot oil replenishes the moisture, providing some protection against cracking during the flexing and stretching during use. Neatsfoot oil also provides some protection from moisture infiltration from humidity and perspiration.

Neatsfoot oil can easily be overdone and too much will make any leather article limp and useless. I use a single application to the smooth surfaces only right after the formed holster has dried completely, then allow the oil to settle in overnight. It will migrate through the leather and reach a balanced level of infusion.

Neatsfoot oil will significantly darken any dyed leather. I recommend experimenting on scrap leather to get the result that you want before proceeding with actual production.

There are others who will argue against any use of neatsfoot oil on formed holsters, and that is fine with me. I have been using this process for 38 years with excellent results, and many of my holsters remain in service after more than 30 years of use, so I will continue.

Re: your question on neatsfoot oil, listen to Lobo. I make almost all of my holsters from two opposed layers of veg. tanned leather and dry the formed holster in the outside heat. (Where I am at, it is 78 degrees F. at 6:40 this morning........will get to 95 - 100 degrees with a humidity of 20 - 25% pretty damn soon) When done my holsters are very rigid and thoroughly dry. I then shoot them inside and out with a shot of neatsfoot through my airbrush, and allow them to sit and 'mellow out' for a day. I then apply my finish. Just as Lobo says, this replenishes necessary oils lost in the parging and molding processes, and is an important step IMO. I've been making holsters for over 30 years also.........but on a smaller scale than Lobo. Being retired and (some say) a grumpy old man, I work on what I want, when I want. That said, there are quite a few of my pieces out there 20 to 30 years old, still firm, solid pieces of working leather, and in use today. Just my 2 cent's worth. Mike

Edited June 28, 2010 by katsass

[gregintenn]

Round off the angles on your next one, and you'll be good to go. I think that's an awesome job; espscially for a first attempt!

Edited June 28, 2010 by gregintenn

[anubismp]

Great job. I'm by no means awesome and only have a few holsters in the wild but a tip I heard here that really helped with my stitch lines getting close to the gun was to do a quick non detailed wet mold first just to get the outline of the gun down and then you can do a stitch-line easily because you can see exactly where the leather will come together. Besides that it looks good. I take it you wrap the gun in saran wrap or something and wet mold over that? I personally like the detail that comes from oiling the pistol and molding without anything covering the gun but to each their own and as stated before I'm no where near a pro.

[Deanimator]

I hope my upcoming tuckable IWB looks as good. Personally, I'd be inclined to radius the places where there are sharp angles.