H&K USP

[JRB]

Wickett & Craig 7/8 oz leather

Angelus Jet Black Dye

I am in the process of applying dye so there is no finish coat yet.

I just got some various color dyes from Angelus so I'm anxious to see how the finished product turns out compared to Fiebing's (which I have not been overly impressed with but could be user error).

Here are some pics of my latest. One picture is after wet molding and the other after dye.

Please fire away.

Edited March 12, 2009 by JRB

[JRB]

Applying finish coats.

Early to give a full report on Angelus dye but so far I'm happy. I'll post some pics of the dyes I have soon.

[adaman04]

Wow, that's looking pretty good. Going with some standard leather belt loops for a Sparks VMII-esque design?

[JRB]

Wow, that's looking pretty good. Going with some standard leather belt loops for a Sparks VMII-esque design?

Thanks!

Yes, I just put the leather belt loops on. I wouldn't consider it to be much like a VMII (although I wish I could be considered in the same class). The VMII is a great design and a standard to be judged by in my book. Aside from the fact the Sparks holsters are far beyond mine, this design does not have a reinforced mouth. My next trial will be a reinforce mouth but not the wrap around that the VMII and others like it have.

[JRB]

Thought I'd post a finished picture.

I've learned some more and will make some changes for the next one.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

You're off to a good start. USP's are tricky to make holsters for IMO. The flared out trigger guard is deceptive when it comes to designing patterns; the angle of the stitching has to angle out more as you get closer to the grip, and it raises the rear belt loop higher than you originally intend unless you account for it. - At least that's my experience.

Since you are gonna make another one with some changes, here is something to consider:

The farther away a loop is from the pistol, the more give the leather between the two will have. With your current design, the rear loop is mounted much farther away from the pistol than the front loop is. Because the rear loop has more space, it has more flex than the closer front loop, meaning your pistol will tend to stay more in line with the closer loop. What all this amounts to is that the butt of your USP's grip is more likely to stick out with your current configuration, making it harder to conceal. I hope that helps with your next design. Be sure to post some pictures and let us see how the next holster turns out.

[JRB]

You're off to a good start. USP's are tricky to make holsters for IMO. The flared out trigger guard is deceptive when it comes to designing patterns; the angle of the stitching has to angle out more as you get closer to the grip, and it raises the rear belt loop higher than you originally intend unless you account for it. - At least that's my experience.

Since you are gonna make another one with some changes, here is something to consider:

The farther away a loop is from the pistol, the more give the leather between the two will have. With your current design, the rear loop is mounted much farther away from the pistol than the front loop is. Because the rear loop has more space, it has more flex than the closer front loop, meaning your pistol will tend to stay more in line with the closer loop. What all this amounts to is that the butt of your USP's grip is more likely to stick out with your current configuration, making it harder to conceal. I hope that helps with your next design. Be sure to post some pictures and let us see how the next holster turns out.

I agree that it presented some challenges for a newbie, but now has bad as I first thought. Still room for improvement though, but when won't there be?!?

Thanks for the advice! At first I was concerned that having the butt loop closer would interfer with draw but found with the right pattern and cant it should not affect it. The butt loop will be moved closer on future designs.