Mould making basics for wet forming leather

[Bree]

Funny you should ask, I have been asked to teach a class on basic case making at the IFLoG show in Indianapolis, In this fall. In that class I will be teaching the basics of making molds for cases. I have used several different materials for molds over the years but I find that wood is the best. It will absorb some of the moisture and help dry the leather while in the mold, thus setting the form you want and keep it. Wooden molds can be made with common wood working tools, the most importaint is a router but with some patients you can make them with wood chistles, rasps and sandpaper. If you can make it to Indianapolis this fall my class will be very afordable.

Randy

Count me in on your class.

[ShirleyT]

Hi, Ray!

Definitely take Valerie's course on wet moulding since you are in the neighborhood. (They fill up fast.) I attended last May, was worth every penny. Her book is a great start. I left the course with two moulds and a good basic knowledge of how to make them; Valerie's husband Neil teaches the mould-making process. I came home and promptly purchased a Japanese shinto rasp that Neil uses that cuts like butter and makes the curve easy to cut. http://www.japanwoodworker.com/product.asp...p;dept_id=12881

Valerie and Neil are great resources and teachers. Neil also works on historical stuff, does lots of restoration and is an archivist of some sort for the museum at Walsall. Valerie is a gem of a teacher. We've adapted her techniques further to wet-forming lots of our fashion items.

AND THE REST OF YOU - take Randy's course if you can get to Indy! You'll find it a worthwhile investment.

To follow up on some of the comments so far - the mould is most important. Several coats of poly-acrylic or equivalent will seal the plywood (birch) helps limit delamination; C-clamps are great - they have plenty of throat, evenly distribute pressure if you use enough of them, and allow for working with different weights of leather. Cup hook for one-piece forms are an ideal way to pull the form out when dry; I found out the hard way. DO NOT use steel nails to hold leather in place - purchase brass or stainless. The least imperfection in the mould will show up in the final product. After-care of the mould is vital for re-use. We wrap ours idividually in bubble wrap for storage, careful storage. After all the work constructing we don't want to re-make. Marine ply is a good way to go if you are going to re-use the mould many times; it's worth it in the long run. Moulds for gussets are a great way to get tight, sleek fit for stitching as well. 3-part moulds are fun, and easy, for small purses and cases. We've not used fthem or larger pieces; we don't want to put that much leather (and all the hand-stitching) at risk if we've screwed it up. And then there are opportunities with masks...we also do some theatrical and costuming...

Wet-forming is a big part of what we do - we owe it all to Valerie.

Best wishes in the process.

Shirley

[Talfuchre]

Tevor,

THANK you for this. I made the top portion of your mold idea already and have been using it great success.

I had thought of making the blank for the knife (a few of them so I could make many at a time) and I am confirmed in what you have made. NICE!

Thanks,

TF