Air Brush or Dauber

[ABC3]

Do most of the top holster craftsmen "Air Brush" or "use a Dauber" to get the mirror like finish on their products ?

I was comparing one of Josh Bulmans & Lou Alessi's rigs last night & it amazing not only the quality of work but the finish they can obtain.

[TwinOaks]

I'm far from "top holster maker", but I'll try to help with the answer.

At least one of them DIPS the holster in the finish then hangs it to dry, cleaning up any runs and drips at the same time.

It also greatly depends on the finish being used. The "THMs" will have to answer as to which they use.

Edited March 16, 2009 by TwinOaks

[Peterk]

I have used airbrush on Eco-Flo and Angelus dyes on my holsters. I only use daubers on accent pieces on my holsters because the over-spray is harder to control. Dauber uses a lot of finish to achieve an even look without streaks.

Have not tried the dunking method, mostly because I'm not producing holster at a high enough number to warrant a dye purchase that big.

[Lobo]

Here is a method that has worked pretty well for me. For the basic "color" dying I use Fiebings Leather Dye diluted 50% with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol, one quart dye, one quart alcohol. Mix it in a container with lid (to avoid evaporation losses), making one-half gallon of liquid.

I dip the finished piece in the dye, allowing it to remain for about 30 seconds. This will thoroughly saturate the item, and the interior surfaces, edges, and stitching will have good color penetration, exterior less so. Set the piece aside for about 10 or 15 minutes, and the alcohol will begin evaporating pretty quickly. While still damp, you can begin the wet-forming process if you like.

After the piece has thoroughly dried (you can tell because there will no longer be an alcohol scent) you can dampen with water to complete the forming/boning. When finished, apply another coat of undiluted dye to the exterior surfaces (a 1-inch paint brush works quite well for this and is faster than the dauber method). Let it dry thoroughly overnight and it is ready for oiling and final finishing.

Cost per one-half gallon of the solution described is about $15, and will dye about 50 or 60 holsters, pouches, belts, etc., so unit cost to dye is about $0.30, which I find acceptable. Dying by the dauber method requires not only more dye (higher unit cost), but a lot more time. I'm making 20 to 30 units per week, about evenly split between classic oiled tan finish, cordovan brown, and black; so I am usually dying about 8 or 10 items at a time in each color. Using this method, I keep my dying time down to about 1 to 2 hours per week (or about 5 minutes per piece).

I use a one-gallon sealed container, so each batch lasts for several weeks. When it gets down to where I can't submerge a piece in the solution I just add another quart of dye and another quart of alcohol. I also keep a set of rubber gloves for each color used, avoids unwanted color transfer from the gloves.

This method also contains the dye very well. No mess from spraying, no equipment to clean up every time. Take an item out of the dye, let it drip for a few seconds, transfer onto a tray lined with newspaper to dry.

If you are going to try this, I'd suggest testing a small amount of the dye you wish to use to see if it will mix well with the alcohol. Some of the water-based dyes could be used the same way, diluted with water.

[ABC3]

Lobo, Thanks so much for sharing your method. It really helps. I use Fiebings Oil as well but I have not tried to Oil prior to final coat which is Leather Balm with Atom Wax or Resolene. Could you share your oiling method? (If this is giving up one of your secrets - I understand)

Again many thanks & stay safe.

[Lobo]

Lobo, Thanks so much for sharing your method. It really helps. I use Fiebings Oil as well but I have not tried to Oil prior to final coat which is Leather Balm with Atom Wax or Resolene. Could you share your oiling method? (If this is giving up one of your secrets - I understand)

Again many thanks & stay safe.

Oiling method? Dead simple! When the piece is ready for finishing I take a 1-inch paint brush, dip it into neatsfoot oil and slather oil over all exterior surfaces, as much as the leather will absorb in ONE and ONLY ONE application.

Set the piece aside overnight for the oil to settle (it doesn't dry, it is absorbed into the fibers and voids in the leather, remaining there as lasting protection against moisture infiltration).

When the oil has settled for a day or so, apply final coatings. I use Fiebings Bag Kote, an old saddlemakers' favorite that imparts a wonderful eggshell luster to the finished piece. Resolene is fine as well.

Note: neatsfoot oil compound is a fine product for providing long-term protection to leather; it will darken the finish somewhat; TOO MUCH NEATSFOOT OIL WILL LEAVE ANY LEATHER ITEM LIMP AND USELESS. Do not over-apply the oil! One time, liberal application, let it absorb into the leather, and be done with it.

Hope this helps you.

[ABC3]

Lobo,

You're a Prince. I'll try the neatsfoot oil.

Thanks & stay safe...