Cheyenne Roll, how to?

[jonwatsabaugh]

I wanted to add another question to the mix here since the Cheyenne roll topic is in the forefront. I'm desiring to refine the seat where it breaks over the cantle. For instance, if you look at Keith Seidel's rigs, the cantle perimeter has a very defined, sharp edge and the binding fits very close to that edge. My question is this. Do you have to skive the seat leather thin where it breaks over, or put a deep gouge line, or both to get that hard break?

Jon

[Rod and Denise Nikkel]

Jon,

One thing some of our customers like is a small bevel on the cantle - 3/8" down and about 1/16" to 1/8" back. I think this started for us in duplicating an old tree which had it and the customer liked it so much that he ordered more the same, as have some others. It is small enough to be unnoticed on the finished saddle. They use it for Cheyenne rolls to get a better break and on straight up bindings to get the binding that little bit further back and cut down wear. Just another idea, especially since you can make it the way you want it.

Edited March 5, 2008 by Rod and Denise Nikkel

[kseidel]

Getting the seat to break sharper at the top of the cantle is mostly dependant on what you do on the edge of the cantle underneath the seat. Like most things on a saddle, what you do first will affect what you do later. Making the top edge of the cantle squared off and sharp , and as hard as possible will greatly help to make the seat break over sharply. I do not skive the break thinner, only to make it the same thickness all around the cantle. Thinner leather is harder to mold and sharpen. As the seat dries, you can sharper the edge further.

Over the years my cheyenne rolls have evolved from thick and rounded to thinner and sharper. Mostly cosmetic

When trying to make them thinner and more refined, I needed to find better ways to keep the roll stiff. I now use a rawhide filler, cut to shape and nailed to the top of the cantle.The front edge of this filler makes a very sharp and hard edge to break the seat over. And a very rigid cheyenne roll that will never soften; without the extra thickness of leather fillers.

Keith

[steveh]

Keith,

I had some questions about the rawhide cheyenne roll filler? When you cut the rawhide to shape is in semi moist state so that you can shape it? When nailing the rawhide to the top of cantel do you mean the very top?, can that be nailed with out splitting to wood?What about sewing the binding, is the rawhide still in a semi soft form to get the awl thru? Thank You ,

Steve

[kseidel]

Steve, I cut the rawhide dry and nail it onto the tree dry and stitch the binding with the rawhide dry. Have tried working it moist, but it always dried mis-shapen. I just cut it with a sharp pair of tin snips. I haven't had any problem with splitting the wood as it is sandwiched between the rawhide covering. Sometimes I miss the center and the nail makes a bulge between the wood and rawhide. I use a fairly slender hardened ring shank nail. Keith