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Will Ghormley's apache moccasin pattern is available here http://www.willghormley-maker.com/ApacheBootPattern.html and is free to down load - he shows one technique for sewing the soles on (the non turn shoe method), but the turn show style of attachment is also recorded via existing artifacts - you can see several here http://anthro.amnh.org/north on the AMNH site and look at the pics (use the Zoom)- several are definitely turn shoe style soles - as with most NA Indian items there is no single one way of things done even amongst the same tribal members, even the old timers. The pictures and variations are consistent with the originals I have also examined first hand.

for search terms use: moccasin

for culture use: Apache, Hopi, etc. to narrow things down

Apache Moccasin - very nice crafting and bead work on the plains high tops....

FWIW - as for the Apaches and others keeping things close to their vest so to speak re: crafting methods - most Indian crafters I know first hand are usually very open and helpful, but others are not so for many reasons, one being that so many have for years been down trodden - abused and used by others for their own personal gain and to the detriment of the Indians.

While I basically agree with you about "keeping secrets" I also understand why many are shy about it or consider it at times culture vulturalism - they have had so much stolen from them over the years and while things like glass embroidery bead work were developed with the aid of Euro goods it's a very emotional issue for many and therefore using logic as an argument won't make any difference - but generally it is not being mean - just put yourself in their position. Generally when you get to know the folks in person rather than via mail, etc. it makes a difference (although there are those few who just won't like it no matter what - and not just "whites" - if you're not a member of the tribe or if it is seen as a "treat" to their ability to make money, but getting to know tribal folks is tough to do at times even when you live close like I do.

One resource that should be a big help for you AM is the Plains Indian Seminar two group on Yahoo - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/PlainsIndianSeminartwo/?yguid=174734538

It is the home for many of the finest Indian crafters, both white and Indian, and although it's mainly Plains crafting centered, I have no doubt that at least some have first hand knowledge on construction and technique of APache gear.

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Two roads diverged in a wood, and I,

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.

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