Contributing Member TwinOaks Posted April 10, 2009 Contributing Member Report Posted April 10, 2009 (edited) Additives are usually a part of the casing process. When you strop the knife, make sure you've got a mirror-like finish on the primary bevel on the swivel knife. That lets you know it's a smooth as you're gonna get it. My strops are generally cut offs and scraps of leather...and I'm forever making a new one because I keep losing the ones I make from scrap. Edited April 10, 2009 by TwinOaks Quote Mike DeLoach Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem) "Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade." "Teach what you know......Learn what you don't." LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.
Mike Craw Posted April 10, 2009 Report Posted April 10, 2009 (edited) Jim, The way Pete did it was to case with whatever solution you normally use (we had water with a little Pro Carve in it) bag it, and let the leather case as normal. Just as it gets ready to carve, spray evenly with a light coat of Lexol Conditioner (not Cleaner) and rub it into the leather with your hand. After there is no more Lexol on the surface put a drop of Johnson's Baby Shampoo in the center of the carving area and rub in until the shampoo foam is gone. Then go ahead and carve. That's the way we did it. Mike Edit: This would go a lot quicker if my fingers would spell the words I'm typing! Edited April 10, 2009 by Mike Craw Quote My choice early in life was either to be a piano-player in a whorehouse or a politician. And to tell the truth, there's hardly any difference. Harry S. Truman
Members Go2Tex Posted April 10, 2009 Members Report Posted April 10, 2009 The drag felt when carving leather is the result of a build-up of crystals on the steel caused from a reaction between the steel and the chemicals used in the tanning process. .........Bob Aah sooo...... that would explain it! I too begin cutting wet for fear of drying out too soon and wet leather seems to cause more drag. I figured it was friction or something at that point. I just love those "bingo" moments I always get here on the forum. We've been having really dry weather down here this year and I have been dealing with quick drying leather as opposed to having to sit and wait for the dang stuff to get ready. Normally it's a bit more humid and the leather just never seems to get ready. So, now I'm keeping it under plastic and just working small areas at a time. Cutting it wet is not as good as waiting until it's ready. The cuts close up and you have more trouble getting your beveler to stay down in them as you walk it. One thing about knowing when the leather is ready, the old thing about feeling for the coolness with the back of your hand...... never works for me. I can't tell that way. I just can't. I have to judge by the appearance, the color and the texture and just plain give it a test with a beveler. I guess that's why it so hard for me to switch from drum dyed to natural colored leather, different times of the year, weather conditions, shop temperature, and most of all, lighting! I wish there were a better way. How about using a moisture meter like the home inspectors use? Anybody ever tried it? Quote Brent Tubre email: BCL@ziplinkmail.com
hidepounder Posted April 10, 2009 Report Posted April 10, 2009 Aah sooo...... that would explain it! I too begin cutting wet for fear of drying out too soon and wet leather seems to cause more drag. I figured it was friction or something at that point. I just love those "bingo" moments I always get here on the forum.We've been having really dry weather down here this year and I have been dealing with quick drying leather as opposed to having to sit and wait for the dang stuff to get ready. Normally it's a bit more humid and the leather just never seems to get ready. So, now I'm keeping it under plastic and just working small areas at a time. Cutting it wet is not as good as waiting until it's ready. The cuts close up and you have more trouble getting your beveler to stay down in them as you walk it. One thing about knowing when the leather is ready, the old thing about feeling for the coolness with the back of your hand...... never works for me. I can't tell that way. I just can't. I have to judge by the appearance, the color and the texture and just plain give it a test with a beveler. I guess that's why it so hard for me to switch from drum dyed to natural colored leather, different times of the year, weather conditions, shop temperature, and most of all, lighting! I wish there were a better way. How about using a moisture meter like the home inspectors use? Anybody ever tried it? Brent, When your leather is so wet it's closing up, then that's way too wet. However, you can cut when the leather is just a little too wet to tool, without any negative results...the cuts will still remain open. It will buy you a little more time when you need it. I'm not advocating cutting wet leather, I'm just saying you can push the envelope a little when it's advantageous to do so. Nothing feels better than taking a sharp swivel knife to perfectly cased leather, but sometimes a guy needs more time for tooling when the leather moisture is just right! I use color as a barometer more than temperature, also. Bob Quote
Members Go2Tex Posted April 10, 2009 Members Report Posted April 10, 2009 ....... Nothing feels better than taking a sharp swivel knife to perfectly cased leather, ...........Bob I don't know, Bob. There are a "few" things that come to mind. But that could be a bit off topic there.... Quote Brent Tubre email: BCL@ziplinkmail.com
hidepounder Posted April 10, 2009 Report Posted April 10, 2009 I don't know, Bob. There are a "few" things that come to mind. But that could be a bit off topic there.... Okay, okay...I concede, you're right!...I did get a little carried away with that statement! Quote
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