Another Newbie

[Phill]

Hi everyone, I just found this forum today. I want to start a new hobby in leather tooling and stitching. This is just for fun, as I'm retired. I have many questions and I don't know how many I'm allowed to ask at one time, LOL... I've been tooling trinkets (key fobs, etc.) for friends and family. I've purchased a bunch of tools from Tandy, and am having a blast. I want to learn how to machine stitch leather. I bought an antique Singer model 201-2 on Ebay and it was delivered yesterday... What a great machine! It seemed to stitch some pretty thick tooling leather without a problem. The two pieces of tooling leather I stitched together were about 1/8 in. thick, totaling 1/4". I'd like to know what kind of thread to use and do I REALLY need to buy special "Leather" needles. I'd like to make some halters and headstalls (probably out of latigo/oiled leather rather than tooled) for the local 4-H club, and possibly a few to sell. My sister wants me to make some logos or emblems for the 4-H kid's Carhart jacket backs. I don't think tooling leather, or any leather for that matter will hold up to a washing machine or dryer. What about a faux leather perhaps? Heck I don't have a clue!

Thanks for any help I get,

Phill

[TwinOaks]

Hi Phill, Welcome to Leatherworker.net! I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying the new hobby, and having a lot of fun too.

Good news: The Singer 201 will sew lighter weight leathers and synthetics.

Bad news: It isn't enough machine to do much in the way of tack...at least not with heavy thread.

The "leather" needles have a differently shaped tip which is designed to cut the leather, not just pierce it. This will come into play with thicker/harder materials moreso than light ones. You can sew with standard needles.

I just recently picked up a model 66 and in my search for thread, was advised to use no heavier than t46 (coats and clark #). I was using t26 and having poor results as the thread is too large for the shuttle/bobbin. The 201 is a different machine, but it just isn't set up for the really large thread like you find in horse tack.

More good news: Though the 201 will handle some moderately thick leather, you'll Get To Learn Hand Stitching for the tack!!! When you do start hand stitching, stay away from the large eye needles that Tandy sells. Get some upholstery needles or doll needles. They don't tend to break at the eye as badly and you'll like the additional length of the doll needles when you need to pull a needle through the leather. Also, go ahead and invest in a good awl. The one that Tandy sells in the kit makes too large of a hole.

Here's a pic made by Rawhide (Marlon) that shows the difference in awl blades: awl size comparison

Any other questions, just ask.

Mike

Edited April 10, 2009 by TwinOaks

[Phill]

Hi Phill, Welcome to Leatherworker.net! I'm glad to hear that you're enjoying the new hobby, and having a lot of fun too.

Good news: The Singer 201 will sew lighter weight leathers and synthetics.

Bad news: It isn't enough machine to do much in the way of tack...at least not with heavy thread.

The "leather" needles have a differently shaped tip which is designed to cut the leather, not just pierce it. This will come into play with thicker/harder materials moreso than light ones. You can sew with standard needles.

I just recently picked up a model 66 and in my search for thread, was advised to use no heavier than t46 (coats and clark #). I was using t26 and having poor results as the thread is too large for the shuttle/bobbin. The 201 is a different machine, but it just isn't set up for the really large thread like you find in horse tack.

More good news: Though the 201 will handle some moderately thick leather, you'll Get To Learn Hand Stitching for the tack!!! When you do start hand stitching, stay away from the large eye needles that Tandy sells. Get some upholstery needles or doll needles. They don't tend to break at the eye as badly and you'll like the additional length of the doll needles when you need to pull a needle through the leather. Also, go ahead and invest in a good awl. The one that Tandy sells in the kit makes too large of a hole.

Here's a pic made by Rawhide (Marlon) that shows the difference in awl blades: awl size comparison

Any other questions, just ask.

Mike

[Phill]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for all the information! I "hand stitched" with the 201 by turning the wheel and did a test on two pieces of tooling leather that are about 7-8 ounce leather (measured 1/4" after stitched) and it did a great job I thought, but then again, I don't know what the heck I'm doing LOL... I have everything I need to hand stitch, except I only have the Tandy awl, but I have 3 or 4 different sized tips for it. I'll have to look at them. What kind of thread would you reccomend for lighter weight tooling leather or latigo leather, say for spur straps? I want to stitch this on the 201 for my sister (just take her old straps apart and copy them).

Thanks again,

Phill

[TwinOaks]

For 'common' thread, like you find at Joanne's, Michael's, Hobby Lobby, wally-world, etc., an upholstery thread should work fine....size t46-t26 (again, coats and clark measurement...I think t26=size 69 thread) but that will depend on what you can get in the bobbin/shuttle. You might want to check out the sewing machine section on the main board and search in that forum for "Singer 201". You'll dig up lots more info than I can type in two days. Since I don't have a 201, I haven't really learned the threads for it. However, in general discussions about machines, the topic has arisen and fairly well put to bed: Even the old Singers, though they can penetrate the leather, aren't designed for large threads like #s 136, 207, 277, (and the other large threads). I'm still pretty new to the sewing machine aspect of things, so I'm more or less re-typing what I've seen/read.

As far as hand stitching, if you're handy with a sharpening stone/grinding wheel you can ...ahem...re-size the awl needles. If you use powertools, be careful to keep the blade cool or you'll ruin the temper. Of course, you could just retemper it when you're done. Just remember that thinner needs to be shorter so you don't snap the blade (and have to remake it). When I hand stitch, I REALLY like using waxed linen thread. That with doll needles makes saddle stitching fairly simple. It's also surprisingly strong. Saddle stitching involves passing two threaded needles through the same hole, but in opposite directions. It's one of, if not THE, strongest stitches you can use.( plus it helps you save up for a high dollar leather stitcher). Wondering about that last part? Start hand stitching, you'll understand.

One last thing.....WE NEED PICS!!!! We love pics here, so post some when you get a chance.

[kevinhopkins]

Hi Phil,

Mike passed on some really good info for you! For what it's worth, you can also use your machine to punch holes for handsewing, by simply sewing without thread. At least, I've done that on occasion... One thing that will help when using the hand awl, is to have a chunk of paraffin, or beeswax handy. stroking that awl blade every now and then on the wax makes a huge difference! Happy Leather crafting!

Kevin

[Phill]

Hi Phil,

Mike passed on some really good info for you! For what it's worth, you can also use your machine to punch holes for handsewing, by simply sewing without thread. At least, I've done that on occasion... One thing that will help when using the hand awl, is to have a chunk of paraffin, or beeswax handy. stroking that awl blade every now and then on the wax makes a huge difference! Happy Leather crafting!

Kevin

[Phill]

Kevin,

What a great idea! I never thought of that! I told my wife (who sews) and she just dropped her jaw and looked at me like "Why didn't I think of that"? thank you for the great tip. I'm sure I will be using it in the future!

Phill