jt1 Report post Posted April 16, 2009 (edited) I know I've got a way to go, but I've gotten this far reading here. Thanks to all for the info and sharing your experience. My prototype body for an OWB driving/crossdraw holster: Still working on the belt attachments, I want a fast on/off without removing the belt and a bit of adjustment in the cant angle, this is proving to be somewhat more difficult than I imagined. My primary goal for this prototype was gun retention and easy one handed reholstering. It works well on both counts. Now I just need to refine my leather working skills and finish the belt attachments. Thanks again for everyone's input. Edited April 16, 2009 by jt1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
usmc0341 Report post Posted April 16, 2009 I think it looks great. How are you going to do the belt attachment with it being stitched together already though? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jt1 Report post Posted April 16, 2009 usmc0341 - Thanks, Once I settle on the final design I'll make a new one, I've got a few changes to make to this one already then it can go into the "box" with the rest, or it will go through the torture test to see how it holds up... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
usmc0341 Report post Posted April 17, 2009 Very nice, and I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one with a "box" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted April 17, 2009 usmc0341 - Thanks, Once I settle on the final design I'll make a new one, I've got a few changes to make to this one already then it can go into the "box" with the rest, or it will go through the torture test to see how it holds up... "IF IT WERE MINE", . . . I would very gingerly razor cut the bottom stitches in this photo, . . . and sew the sleeve on the back to take a stainless "holster" clip you can buy at Tandy Leather. The sleeve should be sewn just about straight up and down according to this picture, . . . and you just put a couple of loops of thread through the hole in the bottom of it to keep it from coming out of the sleeve. Then just sew the bottom back together, . . . voila, . . . a working cross draw holster. It will slip onto your belt as you get ready to drive, . . . and off when you no longer need it. Place it on just the other side of the first belt loop to the left of your buckle, . . . should work great. I "open" them up a bit as they are too tight for me from the factory on anything I make. Oh, . . . yeah, . . . I don't have a box, . . . I just keep a plastic 5 gallon bucket under my working desk, . . . May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jt1 Report post Posted April 21, 2009 Dwight - Thanks for the reply, I just might try to redo this one as you describe by opening up the stitching. I have never cared much for metal clips but while I was contemplating your suggestion I thought of a method of attaching leather loops (possibility covered kydex) that might work well. As for the plastic bucket...I've heard of a 10 gallon hat...now a five gallon holster Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
