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yehagirl

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Hi Y'all!

I have been lurking for a few weeks.

Thank you to all those who post your wonderful work and all the great advice given. :grouphug5vj5:

I went to the Sheridan show in 2006 and took the "introduction to leather" class. That was the first time I had done any tooling. Afterwards I went shopping and at the show. While I was at the Hide Crafters booth asking what tools I would need for Sheridan style, the sales man said ask this man, he knows. Behind me was Chan Geer. He took me over to Barry Kings booth and loaded me up with tools. I got the basic tools that are posted on Barry's website, a swivel knife, edger, mallet.... Off I went ..... then found Old Smoothie booth.... had to have one of those too! Anyway, I got some more stuff. After reading this site, I realize there is a lot that I don't have yet. I was hoping that y'all could help me get what else I might need.

Here is what I have:

#0, #2 Lifters

#0, #2 Checkered Bevelers

#27, 3 & 7 hole Bargrounders

#2 12 Seed Flower Center

#1 Center Shader

#1 Leaf Liner

#0,#4 Mule Foot

#1,#2 Horizontal Thumbprint

#1,#2 Lined Veiner

#2 Lined and Scalloped Veiner

#3 Scalloped Camouflage

BK mallet,

2 Swivel Knife -both 1/4 straight blade

handful of stamping tools from Hide Crafters

1 molding tool

#4 edger

# 1 edger

wood boner thing (sorry, dont know what its called!)

BK Glass Slicker

Edge Beader ( I think)

Strap Cutter

Rivet Setter

Stitching Groover

Cheap Skiver

Punch Set

Rouge

Tool Holder

Various dyes

Tan Kote

Edge Kote

mink Oil

Finish spray

Rubber Cement

Granite stone

Several Chan Geer DVD's and book.

AS Belt Book

AS carving book

Sheridan Style Carving Book

Buckstitching Book

AS Tool Book

AS Holster Book

Another Holster book (on sale at tandy for 2.50)

I have some HO hides coming from that Stevenson /Paxton place along with some Tree Bark fleece for a future gun rug/bag.

I have practiced a little on a Tandy Hide. My work needs help! ( I wont post a picture till I get a real hide to work on, the stuff I have feels like cardboard and cuts like a 20 year old dead cow.) .

:deadsubject:

I bet you are wondering why it has taken me 3 years to pull out my tools? Well... Work picked up and I was working about 12 to 18 hours a day for a few years, since the they decided to crash the economy, I have lots of time on my hands and can finally start playing! My goal is to get everything I will need right now, as my future income looks like it will be in the toilet! So what I am asking of you is, can you think of any other tools that I might need, and where to get them. I called Bob Douglas and he is sending a catalog. Also contacted Cook for an awl. What else do I need.

These are some things I think I might need, where do I get them?

Lacing Awl

Oblong Punches, What sizes are most used?

Stitching Punch

Molding tools - what size?

Edge Burnisher - will the plastic on work or do I need the more expensive wood one?

Thanks for any help you can give!!!

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Get a good head knife, Get it Goood and sharp and learn to use it. It will frustrate the heck out of you untill you get it figured out but once you do youll be happier than a pig in Shi!!!!

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yehagirl,

Welcome to the forum. This my suggestion. Don't rush into buying a lot of tools and things and don't rush into projects. Set aside in a savings account some money, if you can I recommend about $1000. Use this as your seed money and as you gain experience and confidence you will begin to understand which tools fit YOUR Style of carving and most importantly fit YOUR HANDS.

I would also recommend that you read some of the posts on this forum about prepping your leather (Called Casing) since even properly cased Tandy Leather carves nicely, good leather does not make poor carving better. If you can carve on low grade leather, carving on high grade becomes a snap and you don't end up spending a lot of money on leather while you are learning and practicing. I save all my old and scrap leather and use it to try out new techniques.

I would also recommend that you look through this forum and understand the different styles of carving and the different end results of the various art forms. Since you did not mention the style of carving you intend to do or the types of projects you want to eventually do, it is not clear which tools to recommend. For example I do Bi-Fold for 8-10 inch writing tables and purses. For the most part I don't need oblong punches since the hole can be formed with a hole punch for each end and two line cuts and now I can make any size oblong hole when and if I need to which isn't very often.

Is your ultimate goal to do saddles or is it to do leather masks or leather armor??? Do you plan to do Sheridan style tooling? The answers to these questions will change the tool selection.

Again this is my opinion

Again, welcome to the forum

BillB

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Other than a couple knives, I'd fill in the set of edgers, I'd get the #2 and #3 in the same style you have. I have never used a stitching punch, but since you have a catalog coming from Bob Douglas, you might consider one of his awls. I haven't used one from Jeff Cook, but you only need to read the awl thread on the forum here to hear about Bob's. To mold with, Barry King makes a nice one. It has a bullet point on one end and a rounded point on the other. Norm Lynds makes a nice wooden burnisher. They are not a necessity, but handy when you have a pile of work to do. I don't see round punches on your list - I like the mini and maxi-punch sets from TLF. Interchangeable tubes. Just chuck them into a drill press and apply a light touch with a stone to sharpen them. You can heat them with a torch and squeeze them with a pliers to make a set of oval punches too. I also don't see overstitch wheels on you list. Again depending on what you are doing - a few might be the best. Probably start with a 6 and 7 for sure, drop down to a 5 later for heavier work or up to an 8 or more for finer as you progress.

My wife Rundi took the "Intro to Leather" class in 2006 also. She had fun, and learned a lot.

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Other than a couple knives, I'd fill in the set of edgers, I'd get the #2 and #3 in the same style you have. I have never used a stitching punch, but since you have a catalog coming from Bob Douglas, you might consider one of his awls. I haven't used one from Jeff Cook, but you only need to read the awl thread on the forum here to hear about Bob's. To mold with, Barry King makes a nice one. It has a bullet point on one end and a rounded point on the other. Norm Lynds makes a nice wooden burnisher. They are not a necessity, but handy when you have a pile of work to do. I don't see round punches on your list - I like the mini and maxi-punch sets from TLF. Interchangeable tubes. Just chuck them into a drill press and apply a light touch with a stone to sharpen them. You can heat them with a torch and squeeze them with a pliers to make a set of oval punches too. I also don't see overstitch wheels on you list. Again depending on what you are doing - a few might be the best. Probably start with a 6 and 7 for sure, drop down to a 5 later for heavier work or up to an 8 or more for finer as you progress.

My wife Rundi took the "Intro to Leather" class in 2006 also. She had fun, and learned a lot.

Yes, I sat right next to her! Tell her I said Hi! Thank you for your recommendations. I will get what you mentioned. I have a lot of round punches, with a few extra's. I do a lot of hole punchin'!

Ginny

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yehagirl,

Welcome to the forum. This my suggestion. Don't rush into buying a lot of tools and things and don't rush into projects. Set aside in a savings account some money, if you can I recommend about $1000. Use this as your seed money and as you gain experience and confidence you will begin to understand which tools fit YOUR Style of carving and most importantly fit YOUR HANDS.

I would also recommend that you read some of the posts on this forum about prepping your leather (Called Casing) since even properly cased Tandy Leather carves nicely, good leather does not make poor carving better. If you can carve on low grade leather, carving on high grade becomes a snap and you don't end up spending a lot of money on leather while you are learning and practicing. I save all my old and scrap leather and use it to try out new techniques.

I would also recommend that you look through this forum and understand the different styles of carving and the different end results of the various art forms. Since you did not mention the style of carving you intend to do or the types of projects you want to eventually do, it is not clear which tools to recommend. For example I do Bi-Fold for 8-10 inch writing tables and purses. For the most part I don't need oblong punches since the hole can be formed with a hole punch for each end and two line cuts and now I can make any size oblong hole when and if I need to which isn't very often.

Is your ultimate goal to do saddles or is it to do leather masks or leather armor??? Do you plan to do Sheridan style tooling? The answers to these questions will change the tool selection.

Again this is my opinion

Again, welcome to the forum

BillB

HI Bill,

I read the post of casing leather, it helped alot with my tandy hide. I am attempting to do Sheridan carving. Thank you for the tip on making your own oblong hole. I will try that! My ultimate goal is to make a gun case for one of my Rugers and other things for around the house. I have no desire to make a saddle, face mask or Armor.

Ginny

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Here's another perspective, along the same lines as BillB's.

Stop buying tools.

Start practicing.

I started with (and still have) a fairly limited selection of tools. I've picked up a few things and used them ONCE. The things that get used most are swivel knife, beveler, backgrounder, pearshader, and an awl. And the slicker/folder I made from a $6 piece of wood from Woodcraft. Would I like all the top drawer tools? Absolutely! Do you need all of them? No.

Sitting down in Peter Main's work shop wouldn't help my carving ability, nor anyone elses. Sure, every tool you can think of is within arm's reach, but while you're starting out, you won't know what you need.

Work with what you've got, and learn to use each tool to it's fullest. Then expand your tool selection.

Do you HAVE to have modeling tools? No, you don't. Try using a smooth beveler like a pencil. You can actually draw with it, remove the ridge on carvings (the halo), all kinds of things. Need a wood burnisher? Try the curved handle of one of your tools. Need a lifter/petal tool? Get a cheap screwdriver, and cut the shaft of at the angle of your choice then sharpen and polish. Need a stitching spacer? Use a fork.

Make some of your tools from bolts, modify other stuff do what you want. The point is, the tools do not make the craftsperson. Yes, better tools make a craftsperson do better, but they're no subsitute for practice.

Take a look at my avatar. That was done using a Cam, a Beveler, a Pearshader, a Swivel knife, and a t-shirt. This one was done with a modeling tool...only.tigress.jpg

Get some patterns, get that old hide, get to practicing. Check back here, and post pics. This is the best way to learn this craft...unless you have a neighbor named Chan.

A good analogy is this: You don't learn to shoot with a tricked out, scoped and ported SBH. You learn the fundamentals of shooting with a MkI/II/III. Then you move up to the customized toys.

tigress.jpg

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Edited by TwinOaks

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Ginny,

With what you plan to do in mind, here are some books you might want to look for:

F.O. Baird

Design Artistry

Leather Secrets

Al Stohlman

How to Carve Leather

Craftool Tech-Tips

How to Make Holsters

Belts Galore

Coloring Leather

Picture Carving Finesse

Leather Animals

The Art of Making Leather Cases Volumes 1,2,3

Leathercraft Tools - How to use them, How to sharpen them

Peter Main

The Peter Main Technique of Coloring Leather

Unknown Author

How to Lace (my version, the 22nd edition has a 1947 copyright)

Reference Books, videos and discussion on this forum are just as important as the tools. The one thing to remember is that they will provide a strong foundation on which to begin to exploring with. In doing the North American Native American Totems, I use many tools in unusual ways in order to obtain the look and the feel I am tempting to create. It is this exploration of the Art Form that I find most enjoyable. I would surmise from the width and breadth of the work presented on this forum that most on this site feel the same way.

I look forward to seeing some of your work.

BillB

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Ok........... Here goes........ Better close your eyes!

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A good analogy is this: You don't learn to shoot with a tricked out, scoped and ported SBH. You learn the fundamentals of shooting with a MkI/II/III. Then you move up to the customized toys.

I guess I am bass ackwards, because I bought the top of the line Rifle and put a scope on it that cost more than the rifle, then started playing with rifles with no scopes or fancy frills!

I had to laugh when I first read your post. I understand what you are saying, but you reminded me of my dad. He would spend 5 hours making a tool to do a job that he could have bought for a few dollars . My dad was the king of Jerry -Rig. I have taken after my dad for the most of my life. A few years ago I got tired of not having the right tools to get the job done and finally broke down and bought good tools. The reason for my original post was so I could find out more information on what the "good" tools were. Also, as I posted in my original post, my income will dry up within the next few months, if I am going to get anything that I will need it needs to be now. But thank you for your insightful post. blowkiss.bmp

blowkiss.bmp

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Ginny,

Other than some practice, it looks like you could use some background shaders. These come in various sizes and patterns and will provide a cleaner background. Casing the leather will also help in removing some of the ripples.

BillB

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You're most welcome for the advice, hopefully it was worth at least what you paid for it!

Hmm, so I remind you of your dad.....great, now I feel old (er). There is a bright side to being....thrifty....and it's this: Yes, he may have spent 5 hours making a tool he could buy for a few bucks, but at the end of it, he had the tool and the few bucks. ;)

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