Newbie Holster Pics, Please Critique

[fonzman357]

Here are some holsters I've made recently. All are quite functional, none are beautiful. I'd like to change that. If anyone has any advice to offer, I'd really appreciate it.

1) XD45 Tuckable (using Crossbreed clips I bought). This is the first holster I completed, and, unfortunately, the best to date. It features a Kydex front and a leather backing.

2) Kel-Tec PF-9 Tuckable-- The most recent attempt. It turned out okay, but the oxblood color around the clip draws the eye a little too much. Also, there was a faint waterstain near the edges that still shows through the dye.

3) XD45 IWB-- This one was going great, and then I realized I had made it a tad too tight, and the snap on-clip would actually unsnap during a draw. I cut the stitches and re-stitched them more loosely, but that made the lines a little ugly. It helped the tightness problem, but I'll end up having to cut it open one more time and sew on an IWB clip like I have on the Kel-Tec (red) holster.

Any tips would be appreciated. I believe my main issues are:

1) Getting the stitching lines straight and more consistent

2) Dyeing techniques

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Here are a few thoughts on holster construction that you didn't ask about but that might help. One thing that you can do is refrain from using square edges or sharp corners whenever possible. It will improve the looks of the holster by making the lines flow together and also keep the corners from separating or rolling up. Also consider taping a dowel rod to the slide of your pistol when you shape the holster so it formes a sight channel. That keeps crud off your front sight and improves your draw stroke.

There are several posts in this section about improving your hand stitching if you use the search function. Also, If you don't already own Al Stohlman's guide for hand stitching, give Kevin at Springfield Leather a call and order one.

I thought the color turned out pretty well, but sometimes things look different in person than they do on the monitor. What don't you like about how they turned out?

Finally, don't worry too much if you mess something up and have to start over or re-design something. It's just part of the learning process. I have always learned more from mistakes than getting lucky on the first try anyhow.

BTW, welcome to the leather worker forum!

[Lobo]

Your work will improve with time and practice. Ditto on the sharp corners; not only are they likely to become worn/dogeared/pulled apart, they are also best avoided for the comfort of the user.

I think everyone hear has made a few that ended up as chew toys. Don't worry about it, every one is a learning experience that will improve your next effort.

By the way, your snap-on clip isn't a bad idea, but a standard snap is not likely to take the stresses applied in use. I would suggest T-nuts with screws and trim washers.

Best regards.

Edited May 27, 2009 by Lobo

[fonzman357]

Your work will improve with time and practice. Ditto on the sharp corners; not only are they likely to become worn/dogeared/pulled apart, they are also best avoided for the comfort of the user.

I think everyone hear has made a few that ended up as chew toys. Don't worry about it, every one is a learning experience that will improve your next effort.

By the way, your snap-on clip isn't a bad idea, but a standard snap is not likely to take the stresses applied in use. I would suggest T-nuts with screws and trim washers.

Best regards.

All good points, thanks. I'll get a copy of that book. Also, I've been using the dowel rod technique for the sight channel. It seems like the top would cave in after after I removed the dowel rod, giving just one place that would catch the front sight.

The problem with the color was the ugly waterstain on the red one near the back edge.

What about the stitching lines? Any advice on making them look cleaner? Most other holsters I see seem to have longer lines, with the holest spaced farther apart. Unforunately, the largest overstitch wheel I have is a #7, and I haven't seen any 4-prong chisels that a spaced that far apart.

Maybe that book covers this?

Edited May 27, 2009 by fonzman357

[fonzman357]

By the way, what are "T-nuts with screws and trim washers", and do you know where I can find them?

[Tac]

By the way, what are "T-nuts with screws and trim washers", and do you know where I can find them?

T-nuts are available at most Home Depot stores/hardware stores. They are like a nut with a flat flange that has "teeth" that are bent up from the flange. The "teeth" allow you to seat them in the leather so that when a screw is turned into it, the nut does not just spin. If you punch a hole in the leather for the threaded portion of the t-nut to protrude through, and seat the "teeth/flange" into the back side of the leather, it gives you a place to bolt on a belt clip, strap or what-have-you.

I am sure someone can post a picture of one. They are pretty popular for making attachment points on holsters.

-Tac

[Bronson]

There's a few types of T-nuts HERE

Bronson

[Bronson]

What about the stitching lines? Any advice on making them look cleaner? Most other holsters I see seem to have longer lines, with the holest spaced farther apart. Unforunately, the largest overstitch wheel I have is a #7, and I haven't seen any 4-prong chisels that a spaced that far apart.

Maybe that book covers this?

I just started using a stitching awl instead of the four prong punches. It takes some practice but I already like it better than the punch. The Al Stohlman book on handstitching (already recommended) will cover how to use and maintain your awl and much much more information.

How are you laying out your stitch lines?

Bronson

[fonzman357]

I just started using a stitching awl instead of the four prong punches. It takes some practice but I already like it better than the punch. The Al Stohlman book on handstitching (already recommended) will cover how to use and maintain your awl and much much more information.

How are you laying out your stitch lines?

Bronson

One some, I use an adjustable edge groover, then run the #7 overstitch wheel over the groove, then hammer each indention with my awl. A couple problems I have with this:

1) The holes end up appearing too close together compared to other holsters I've seen.

2) I can't see the indentions made by the overstitch wheel very well, but a guy at Tandy recently told me that wetting the groove will help make the indention deeper. Will this cause waterstains on the leather though? How do I deal with that?

3) When I make the holster from folding over a single piece of leather, I prefer to have the holes perfectly aligned, but the only way to do this seems to be to fold it over, glue it, then hammer the awl through both sides of the leather in a single punch. However, I have problems with the awl going through the first layer straight, and coming out the other side crooked, which makes my stitching lines look kinda raggedy. The other option would be to punch the holes in each side separately, but again I'm concerned they won't line up perfectly when I fold the leather over. Another guy recommended using a drill press to make my holes, so there's no danger of getting it crooked.

Anyone have any tips on any of these issues?

Edited May 28, 2009 by fonzman357

[Bronson]

deleted

Edited May 28, 2009 by Bronson

[Bronson]

1) The holes end up appearing too close together compared to other holsters I've seen.

Doesn't the 7 spi overstitch wheel correspond to the 1/8" four prong diamond punch? I can't remember right now and am away from my workbench but I think that's what I was using.

2) I can't see the indentions made by the overstitch wheel very well, but a guy at Tandy recently told me that wetting the groove will help make the indention deeper. Will this cause waterstains on the leather though? How do I deal with that?

Over the course of building the holster you'll be spot wetting it a few times. Grooving, marking with the overstitch wheel, bevelling the edges, burnishing, forming, etc. I usually avoid water spots by re-moistening the entire holster before I dye it. I don't know how others are doing it but that's what's working for me.

the only way to do this seems to be to fold it over, glue it, then hammer the awl through both sides of the leather in a single punch.

Yup.

However, I have problems with the awl going through the first layer straight, and coming out the other side crooked, which makes my stitching lines look kinda raggedy.

Sounds familiar What helped me was more practice. I glued up a bunch of scrap pieces and practiced punching them. I did the same thing when I switched to using the diamond awl.

Another guy recommended using a drill press to make my holes, so there's no danger of getting it crooked.

Wasn't an option for me since I don't have a drill press so I just had to get better with the punches

And by the way I'm just finishing up using the last of the leather I got from Tandy. That stuff really is junk. Boomstick pointed me to this leather from Zack White which I'll be ordering soon.

I'm new at this whole thing and would take just about anybody elses opinions/advice here on LWDN over mine .....just so ya know.

Bronson

Edited May 28, 2009 by Bronson

[carljc72]

And by the way I'm just finishing up using the last of the leather I got from Tandy. That stuff really is junk. ...to this leather from Zack White which I'll be ordering soon.

Zack White customer service is A1. I will continue to order from them. Be careful you know what you are ordering because their single shoulders are tannery runs (ungraded). You could get a flawless peice of leather or you could get the opposite. No matter what, they want to serve their customers and will go above and beyond in my opinion. Just my $.02.

Carl

[Bronson]

they want to serve their customers and will go above and beyond in my opinion. Just my $.02.

Carl

Thanks Carl, that's good to know.

Bronson