not enough neatsfoot oil?

[zaptoid]

I am trying to achieve a soft plyable holster but still rigid enough to keep the shape of my gun. I tried neatsfoot oil after dying and after two coats my holster is still pretty rigid. I read here on the forum to not over do it but two coats didnt seem to make a diference. My question then would be would is it because of the dye im using which is a water base dye or do I just need to give it more time to soften up? I put the coats on heavy a couple of days ago.

Any help would be great.

[jbird]

This is sounding a bit like the leather you used is not of the best quality is it Tandy stuff or what a piece of W&C is pretty soft even after molding, I have to bake mine to get them hard, I think this is a case of some less than top quality leather or it could be a piece hardened be the sun in that case you need more oil

Josh

[MADMAX22]

Leather will vary in how dry it is and many other reasons for stiffness as Josh pointed out.

What I do is use about two coats of neatsfoot oil. Once that has fully dried and soaked in Ill come back and do a good coat of a conditioner like lexol. Too much oil and you can ruin it but the lexol or similer should soften it up a bit.

[pete]

If you heavily dyed the piece(dunked it) or put a lot of applications, then it is the dye. It will stiffen the leather a lot. More neats is not the answer.

If you use enough to really soften it then you have used way too much and it will be mush before long.

FOr this one I would suggest just a coat or two of Bicks.

pete

[jbird]

Lexol

For sure but he said it was water base dye and that should not dry it out like alcohol base would I mean I think this just needs some lexol

Josh

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I don't want to sound like a pain in the butt, but if you want the holster to be soft and pliable then use it a little while. It takes a lot of effort to make holsters stay rigid. Accomplishing a softer holster isn't too difficult at all. 'Just out of curiosity, why do you want the holster to be soft?

[zaptoid]

This is sounding a bit like the leather you used is not of the best quality is it Tandy stuff or what a piece of W&C is pretty soft even after molding, I have to bake mine to get them hard, I think this is a case of some less than top quality leather or it could be a piece hardened be the sun in that case you need more oil

Josh

I am using tandy for starting out.

I don't want to sound like a pain in the butt, but if you want the holster to be soft and pliable then use it a little while. It takes a lot of effort to make holsters stay rigid. Accomplishing a softer holster isn't too difficult at all. 'Just out of curiosity, why do you want the holster to be soft?

Im not looking for soft. I am however looking for a little more flexibility.

[Bronson]

Did you heat it at all to dry it? I was getting very rigid holsters because I was using a hair dryer or heat gun to dry my holsters because I was impatient. If you heat it too much too quickly it'll get very rigid and brittle.

Bronson

[zaptoid]

Did you heat it at all to dry it? I was getting very rigid holsters because I was using a hair dryer or heat gun to dry my holsters because I was impatient. If you heat it too much too quickly it'll get very rigid and brittle.

Bronson

I let it dry out natual like.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Im not looking for soft. I am however looking for a little more flexibility.

Flexibility comes as a result of breaking your holster in. If you want to, you could probably apply some Bick 4 or Lexol to the "wings" of the holster (where the belt slots are located), but I wouldn't advise it for anywhere that has molding. I don't personally advocate the use of neatsfoot oil in general when it comes to building holsters that are boned into shape. In time, it will only make them too soft (for my taste).

It seems like most of the companies or people that recomend using neatsfoot oil either got their start making saddles or apprenticed under somebody that did. The same needs don't apply to boned holsters that apply to belts, boots, saddles, knife sheaths, slings, or cowboy rigs. Believe me, if we were talking about any of those subjects I would deffinitely default to a saddle maker's advice; they are very talented and knowledgeable artisans (much more so than I am - I couldn't do what they do). They just usually have a different outlook and different needs in mind when it comes to what a holster should be.

[jbird]

I find it very interesting the thought that neatsfoot should be avoided on holsters I agree I merely said it because he said he wanted it soft and we all know how it softens leather up how evevr the harder the holster IMHO the better fit you will have in the long run I don't use it on mine.

I made a shoulder rig for a daranger this week and it was tight but it will loosen over time so I told the lady it was very good and break it in

Josh

[Lobo]

For what it is worth, I am a believer in neatsfoot oil for finishing holsters. The oil does not "dry", rather it is absorbed into the leather fibers, and a proper application serves two important purposes. First, the oil allows the leather to flex without cracking or splitting. Second, the oil inhibits moisture absorption.

I apply the oil with a paintbrush on the outer sides of each piece, as much as the leather will carry in one application, then allow it to settle into the leather overnight. This results in a piece that holds its shape well, flexes more easily, and returns to shape.

Final surface finishes can then be applied. I like Fiebings Bag Kote for the eggshell luster. Others may prefer a higher gloss final finish.

Too much neatsfoot oil will make any leather item limp and useless. In my opinion, not oiling a formed holster leaves it dry and subject to moisture absorption, which can lead to mold and mildew in many climates.

[jbird]

Lobo

I think that makes sence oiling it a bit I also think you can mark it down that if you buy dry leather first of it dosent hold it's shape well in the long run and even with some oil it is not worth it,

I am sure I don't know but what's the long term outlook say 10 years

down the line in a moist area does the holster need more oil.

Josh

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

If you aren't using some kind of moisture preventative sealant you are asking for trouble no matter what you do. A proper application of acrylic finish (I use Angelus 600 - first "painted" on to maximum absorption with a foam brush and then airbrushed to achieve a matte finish - I know of some makers that even dip their holsters) will act as an excellent moisture preventative in any case without the possibility of breaking down the leather's rigidity prematurely. In fact, it will promote its stiffness.

It all depends on what you are trying to do. In my experience, you don't want a holster to flex once it's broken in. You want it to remain rigid enough to both keep it's shape while the pistol is withdrawn so it is easier to reholster, and to almost "snap" back into shape once the pistol is reinserted.

I know it seems like I go against the conventional wisdom sometimes, but it is not for the sake of being different. I am and will probably always remain a shooter first and a craftsman second. I am not picking on traditional leather craftsmen or saddle makers (my Dad is one of them and he is the one who got me started). I just have a different set of priorities for my carry equipment. I don't want to force anybody to do things my way. This sight is about helping each other and I am trying to do just that. It would be much easier not to make waves.

Bottom line: I have told you guys what I do and why. You may or may not agree with mme but at least you have seen my logic and you can possibly gain something from it. Just know why you are doing what you do and strive to improve. Everything else should fall in line.

[jbird]

Boomstick

I see your train of thought as well and I think it's got some backing like you say this is a open board and I for one enjoy your insight

Josh

[Lobo]

Lobo

I think that makes sence oiling it a bit I also think you can mark it down that if you buy dry leather first of it dosent hold it's shape well in the long run and even with some oil it is not worth it,

I am sure I don't know but what's the long term outlook say 10 years

down the line in a moist area does the holster need more oil.

Josh

Josh:

I do not recommend more oiling. The first application is all that should ever be necessary.

As for the long-term outlook, I visited an old friend a few months ago and saw that he is still carrying his Colt Combat Commander in the holster that I made for him in 1978. It retains its shape to this day, retains the pistol securely, and still looks pretty good.

I know of several other holsters still in use that I made more than 30 years ago, and I'm reasonably certain that most of what I have made remains (at least) in existence. This tells me that what I am doing remains a viable method.

Others have stated that they use different methods and hold different opinions on this subject, and that is fine. There are no "absolutely right" methods, but there are certainly a lot of different methods in use. I'm sure that you will settle upon those that work best for you.

Best regards.

[jbird]

Lobo

I think it's a big help having guys like you on the site thanks a bunch for your open line to us on this site

Josh