perfect for upholstery

[Kustom]

You feedback please.

I've seen some machine on craigslist that say "perfect for upholstery". What does that really mean? Does it mean they should work for leather as well without any parts being replaced? Does it mean they should go slow with a lot of torque?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

[whinewine]

You feedback please.

I've seen some machine on craigslist that say "perfect for upholstery". What does that really mean? Does it mean they should work for leather as well without any parts being replaced? Does it mean they should go slow with a lot of torque?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Steve:

You're right- WHAT DOES THAT MEAN??? (Could be whatever they want it to mean, or mean nothing at all).

You need to ask very specific questions of the seller: how thick will it sew, will it do leather, does it have a speed control, what thread sizes does it handle, etc, etc, and {VERY IMPORTANTLY}, what have YOU sewn with it (& I want to see it in operation if I come to see it- AND I'LL BRING MY OWN LEATHER ALONG, TOO).

If they can't answer any one of these questions, I'd say walk away, 'cause they ain't got a clue.

russ

[Hilly]

You feedback please.

I've seen some machine on craigslist that say "perfect for upholstery". What does that really mean? Does it mean they should work for leather as well without any parts being replaced? Does it mean they should go slow with a lot of torque?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

I have a Consew machine that is perfect for upholstery - I've done quite a few car interiors with it. When I started doing leatherwork, I found that it is perfect for upholstery, but not stitching heavy leather, even though I did put a servo motor on it. A speed reducer would have helped some, I'm sure, but after all the mods, I could've just bought a heavy stitcher instead.

My suggestion is to call the person selling the machine, get the make and model from them, then ask someone here such as Art, or Cobra Steve whether it would be suitable for your needs.

Hope this helps.

Hilly

[Kustom]

Thanks for the replies.

Here's a couple more questions. What's the optimum motor speed rating for a leather sewing machine? How are walking feet for leather different than other materials?

BTW this is what the add says that I'm looking at:

We have a few sewing machines available complete with table and motor:

*Pfaff 145 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$695 obo

*Brother 797 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$700

*Consew 226R walking foot w reverse for upholstery(2 available)...$695

All machines above will handle heavy sewing like leathers and are perfect for upholstery.

*Willcox & Gibbs 5 thread overlock really clean...$625

*Kansai Special cover stitch...$550

*Pfaff bar tack...$550

*Taiko single needle...$300

*Consew 210 single needlew reverse..$250

*Chandler single needle...$295

[Art]

We have a few sewing machines available complete with table and motor:

*Pfaff 145 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$695 obo

This is the first machine of the 45 series, and would work good for up to 3/8 leather. Not necessarily the greatest for upholstery as feet may not be readily available. These things tend to be set up to run like a bunny figure $200 and some elbow grease to slow it down. Pfaff parts, especially this vintage are made of unobtanium and are priced accordingly. I would offer $250 for that machine if it passed my inspection.

*Brother 797 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$700

This is not a needle feed machine although ok for upholstery as you can get welt feet and zipper feet for it. Here again, you might have to slow it down. I consider $700 high for this machine.

*Consew 226R walking foot w reverse for upholstery(2 available)...$695.

If you are not sewing over 3/8, this machine will do it, great needle feed upholstery machine and takes the whole line of 111 feet. This is a good machine, made in China, their price is a little high, so offer less, there are plenty of these around.

All machines above will handle heavy sewing like leathers and are perfect for upholstery.

They'll run too fast for serious leather sewing, but if you slow them down they sew 2 pieces of 9oz quite nicely.

*Willcox & Gibbs 5 thread overlock really clean...$625

*Kansai Special cover stitch...$550

*Pfaff bar tack...$550

*Taiko single needle...$300

*Consew 210 single needlew reverse..$250

*Chandler single needle...$295

These guys have nothing to do with leatherwork.

For serious leatherwork you want to be sewing 160-200 spm max. For a clutch motor, you surely don't want to be over 1725rpm which is the slowest I've seen. Feet and dogs for veg tanned leather are usually smooth.

Art

[TwinOaks]

In this context, I'd think "perfect for upholstery" means that the machine will handle several layers of fabric, and sew at production speeds.

Go over to "sewing leather" and do a search for "singer 111". Or google the model name/number. Most of these machines are similar to it- flatbed, walking foot, and I think the brother is a needle feed.

AFAIK, the only real difference between a leather and regular walking foot is the one for leather is "dulled" so it doesn't leave tracks in the leather. Maybe some of them have rubber feet?

All a walking foot does is help feed the material. Instead of trying to lift and move it (feed dogs) it more or less pinches it to move it.

Can't help you on the speed rating, other than suggesting you get a motor that can chug along and provide torque at slow rpm instead of one that'll sew 5000 spm.

[SteveBrambley]

We have a few sewing machines available complete with table and motor:

*Pfaff 145 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$695 obo

This is the first machine of the 45 series, and would work good for up to 3/8 leather. Not necessarily the greatest for upholstery as feet may not be readily available. These things tend to be set up to run like a bunny figure $200 and some elbow grease to slow it down. Pfaff parts, especially this vintage are made of unobtanium and are priced accordingly. I would offer $250 for that machine if it passed my inspection.

*Brother 797 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$700

This is not a needle feed machine although ok for upholstery as you can get welt feet and zipper feet for it. Here again, you might have to slow it down. I consider $700 high for this machine.

*Consew 226R walking foot w reverse for upholstery(2 available)...$695.

If you are not sewing over 3/8, this machine will do it, great needle feed upholstery machine and takes the whole line of 111 feet. This is a good machine, made in China, their price is a little high, so offer less, there are plenty of these around.

All machines above will handle heavy sewing like leathers and are perfect for upholstery.

They'll run too fast for serious leather sewing, but if you slow them down they sew 2 pieces of 9oz quite nicely.

*Willcox & Gibbs 5 thread overlock really clean...$625

*Kansai Special cover stitch...$550

*Pfaff bar tack...$550

*Taiko single needle...$300

*Consew 210 single needlew reverse..$250

*Chandler single needle...$295

These guys have nothing to do with leatherwork.

For serious leatherwork you want to be sewing 160-200 spm max. For a clutch motor, you surely don't want to be over 1725rpm which is the slowest I've seen. Feet and dogs for veg tanned leather are usually smooth.

Art

Most of the clutch motors I use here run at 1425rpm and are 1/2 HP. They are all 240V AC single phase, I don't know if that makes any difference?

Steve

Edited June 4, 2009 by SteveBrambley

[torrbuidhe]

Most of the clutch motors I use here run at 1425rpm and are 1/2 HP. They are all 240V AC single phase, I don't know if that makes any difference? Steve

I think the difference is because UK AC mains is at 50 hz while it's 60 hz in the US. Quite handy for us really.

[Art]

Use guys run at 50Hz which slows the motor down we run at 60Hz over here, 5/6 of 1725 is around 1437 or "around" 1425 giving for a little less efficiency.

Art

Most of the clutch motors I use here run at 1425rpm and are 1/2 HP. They are all 240V AC single phase, I don't know if that makes any difference?

Steve

[kevinhopkins]

Hi... everyone here has given you some good thoughts... For my 2 cents worth, pretty much everything on that list is either over priced, or a potential problem. Before buying a machine, talk to someone that you have a good feeling for on the phone, and let them get a feel for what machine will do what you really want to do. They'll most likely give you some good direction. But if you're not a "sewing machine person", buy a new one, and save yourself some grief. "perfect for upholstery" is all in the eyes of the user...

Best wishes,

Kevin Hopkins

[Kustom]

We have a few sewing machines available complete with table and motor:

*Pfaff 145 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$695 obo

This is the first machine of the 45 series, and would work good for up to 3/8 leather. Not necessarily the greatest for upholstery as feet may not be readily available. These things tend to be set up to run like a bunny figure $200 and some elbow grease to slow it down. Pfaff parts, especially this vintage are made of unobtanium and are priced accordingly. I would offer $250 for that machine if it passed my inspection.

*Brother 797 walking foot w reverse for upholstery...$700

This is not a needle feed machine although ok for upholstery as you can get welt feet and zipper feet for it. Here again, you might have to slow it down. I consider $700 high for this machine.

*Consew 226R walking foot w reverse for upholstery(2 available)...$695.

If you are not sewing over 3/8, this machine will do it, great needle feed upholstery machine and takes the whole line of 111 feet. This is a good machine, made in China, their price is a little high, so offer less, there are plenty of these around.

All machines above will handle heavy sewing like leathers and are perfect for upholstery.

They'll run too fast for serious leather sewing, but if you slow them down they sew 2 pieces of 9oz quite nicely.

*Willcox & Gibbs 5 thread overlock really clean...$625

*Kansai Special cover stitch...$550

*Pfaff bar tack...$550

*Taiko single needle...$300

*Consew 210 single needlew reverse..$250

*Chandler single needle...$295

These guys have nothing to do with leatherwork.

For serious leatherwork you want to be sewing 160-200 spm max. For a clutch motor, you surely don't want to be over 1725rpm which is the slowest I've seen. Feet and dogs for veg tanned leather are usually smooth.

Art

Art,

Thanks for all the info. Right now what I need is a machine that can sew thinner leathers like wallet interiors, and up to two pieces 9oz at the most. So this style of machine would work for me. I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are. If I get a used machine for $500 then have to add a servo and speed reducer for $300 I'm up to $800, plus my time and frustration. What would a new machine comparable to the Consew 226 already set up for leather cost?

Steve

[whinewine]

Art,

Thanks for all the info. Right now what I need is a machine that can sew thinner leathers like wallet interiors, and up to two pieces 9oz at the most. So this style of machine would work for me. I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are. If I get a used machine for $500 then have to add a servo and speed reducer for $300 I'm up to $800, plus my time and frustration. What would a new machine comparable to the Consew 226 already set up for leather cost?

Steve

While not much of a sewing machine person (I only sew when I need to & can't find someone to do it), I did pick up an older (read: ALL METAL PARTS) Viking Husqvarna model #6270 for about $150 including shipping that I use for sewing wallet interiors, bags & tool rolls together. It'll also handle at least 2 layers of garment leathers. It came with almost a full set of stitching cams, too. What I really like about it is that it has a variable speed control that can sew down to one stitch at a time, so I can see what I'm doing, and it'll sew in reverse, too. While it is a home machine and not an industrial machine, it'll handle up to probably 5 or 6 oz leather (- the only limit being how high the presser foot can be raised), very nicely with a teflon foot. Any of the old 6000 series, if they are well maintained will be a good starter machine if all you want to do is light stuff. Just a suggestion to think about for just starting out & intermittent use.

russ

[Kustom]

While not much of a sewing machine person (I only sew when I need to & can't find someone to do it), I did pick up an older (read: ALL METAL PARTS) Viking Husqvarna model #6270 for about $150 including shipping that I use for sewing wallet interiors, bags & tool rolls together. It'll also handle at least 2 layers of garment leathers. It came with almost a full set of stitching cams, too. What I really like about it is that it has a variable speed control that can sew down to one stitch at a time, so I can see what I'm doing, and it'll sew in reverse, too. While it is a home machine and not an industrial machine, it'll handle up to probably 5 or 6 oz leather (- the only limit being how high the presser foot can be raised), very nicely with a teflon foot. Any of the old 6000 series, if they are well maintained will be a good starter machine if all you want to do is light stuff. Just a suggestion to think about for just starting out & intermittent use.

russ

Russ,

Thanks for the info. Does that model of Viking have a walking foot? I think I need a walking foot. Do I? I don't know? I'm confused.

Steve

[Art]

$1,400 to $1,500. If you go for no needle feed, $200 less. You can drive over to Highland and try one out and take one home to save on the shipping.

http://www.cobrastitch.com

Art

Art,

Thanks for all the info. Right now what I need is a machine that can sew thinner leathers like wallet interiors, and up to two pieces 9oz at the most. So this style of machine would work for me. I'm just trying to figure out what my best options are. If I get a used machine for $500 then have to add a servo and speed reducer for $300 I'm up to $800, plus my time and frustration. What would a new machine comparable to the Consew 226 already set up for leather cost?

Steve

[Kustom]

$1,400 to $1,500. If you go for no needle feed, $200 less. You can drive over to Highland and try one out and take one home to save on the shipping.

http://www.cobrastitch.com

Art

Art,

If I go for a new one I will for sure buy from Steve. What exactly is a "needle feed" and why do I need it?

Thanks so much for your help,

Steve

[SteveBrambley]

Use guys run at 50Hz which slows the motor down we run at 60Hz over here, 5/6 of 1725 is around 1437 or "around" 1425 giving for a little less efficiency.

Art

Thanks Torrbuidhe, Art, I thought there must be something going on. I'm afraid my electrical knowledge leaves a lot to be desired.

Steve

[Cobra Steve]

Hey Steve, perfect for upholstery means that it is a walking foot, or compound walking foot machine. There are many differences between an upholstery machine and a leather machine even though they could be the same machine. They are set up differently. Upholsterers like to sew fast, sometimes, very fast. They do not have to stay in stitch grooves, or hit certain marks, they just have to get the job done fast. Most upholsterers have been doing it for so long, that they can do it with their eyes closed. The machines do not have speed reducers, presser feet for leather, or use a leather point needle. These are the biggest differences. You can convert an upholstery machine to a leather machine by adding the speed reducer, but you will have to modify the belt slot by making it longer, and sometimes drill new holes for the motor, and changing the presser feet. Thanks, Steve

P.S. I am still waiting to hear from you after we met in Wickenberg. I grew up in Burbank. Call me at 1-909-425-2080.

[Art]

Hi Steve,

With a needle feed, the needle actually feeds (in unison with the feed dogs) when the needle is in the down position. This keeps the top layer from feeding at a rate slower than bottom layer, which would cause "gathering" if the material was light enough, or shifting during the first few stitches. Needle feed also provides a more positive feed with heavier material. With slicker material, you almost have to have it.

It is worth the extra.

Art

Art,

If I go for a new one I will for sure buy from Steve. What exactly is a "needle feed" and why do I need it?

Thanks so much for your help,

Steve

[Kustom]

Hi Steve,

With a needle feed, the needle actually feeds (in unison with the feed dogs) when the needle is in the down position. This keeps the top layer from feeding at a rate slower than bottom layer, which would cause "gathering" if the material was light enough, or shifting during the first few stitches. Needle feed also provides a more positive feed with heavier material. With slicker material, you almost have to have it.

It is worth the extra.

Art

Thanks Art.

[Kustom]

Hey Steve, perfect for upholstery means that it is a walking foot, or compound walking foot machine. There are many differences between an upholstery machine and a leather machine even though they could be the same machine. They are set up differently. Upholsterers like to sew fast, sometimes, very fast. They do not have to stay in stitch grooves, or hit certain marks, they just have to get the job done fast. Most upholsterers have been doing it for so long, that they can do it with their eyes closed. The machines do not have speed reducers, presser feet for leather, or use a leather point needle. These are the biggest differences. You can convert an upholstery machine to a leather machine by adding the speed reducer, but you will have to modify the belt slot by making it longer, and sometimes drill new holes for the motor, and changing the presser feet. Thanks, Steve

P.S. I am still waiting to hear from you after we met in Wickenberg. I grew up in Burbank. Call me at 1-909-425-2080.

Cobra Steve,

It was good talking to you on the phone. I now realize it's not worth it for me to mess around with a used sewing machine. Time is money, as they say. For the time I spend messing with a used one I could have bought a new one with a warranty and customer service for the same cost.

Kevin,

I know that's what you already told me that but I needed to do the "math" myself.

Thank you all for helping out with my questions.

Steve