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Art

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Everything posted by Art

  1. No, I do not. Bob has never been unfair with pricing. You get what you pay for.
  2. For big heavy leathers, I prefer Bob Beard's edgers. For everything else, I use Ron's.
  3. You want the 16x2. Here's a list of needles you may want to consider from the thread exchange. https://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=SRCHFA&Search=16x2
  4. For size 33 (commercial) thread like I use on boot tops, I use a size 14 needle, but anything from 12 to 15 might work.
  5. You want 16x2 or DBx2 for that machine. That number is called the "system". Then you need to pick size (generally the diameter of the needle) based on the thread you are using.
  6. Try going up one needle size. Art
  7. Well, you certainly made that clear in your original post. Lay part on a piece of grid or graph paper, both sides to be clearer. Now, call OTB and see if they can source what you need. They might not have it, but they can point you in the right direction. These can also be custom made. There are a lot of vendors out there, it might take a few hours on the phone to get a lead. Also, go to your original supplier and ask where they sourced them.
  8. Fact of leather life here. Robert Beard tools sell for more than you paid for them when new. This is on eBay. They seldom come up unless someone dies. Barry King tools can be a little more flexible on price, but they hold their value too.
  9. 10 Seconds. https://www.amazon.com/Solid-Brass-Heart-Rosette-Concho/dp/B07BYYPYG1
  10. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aquilim-315-dispersion-adhesives-500g/dp/B00DJ3KHSA Renia Aquilim 315 it works very well. Water based, no VOCs. I stayed away from anything like this for the longest time. This is all I use now even though I have a gallon of Master in the shop.
  11. Bite the bullet and buy a Robert Beard or a Henley. If you don't like it, you can put it up on eBay and get more than you paid for it. Both of those brands lean more toward being a "generic" swivel knife while being very adjustable for length. When you get enough experience to know if you want a bigger or smaller knife, like I said above, you can recoup your cost (hell, I'll buy it from you).
  12. Email one of the older folks at Ohio Travel Bag. But a little searching can find it here: https://www.fasttech.com/product/9617220-boyou-b910-zinc-alloy-keychain-car-key-ring-holder
  13. Those machines are very robust. They travel to shows many times a year over 1000 miles each way. If you can afford the needle positioner, get it. It makes doing cartridge loops a bit easier. You can live without it though. Call me if you need more info. Three zero one eight four eight seven eight one zero.
  14. .364 CRC Standard Math Tables.
  15. Art

    bag making question!

    Carrie, Make Big full width pockets, actually more of a lining with an open top. If you want more, sew them to that pocket. All the stitching for the liner pocket would be in the seams. Art
  16. Art

    Concho belt

    Do you already have the new belt? Take pics of what you have and give a time frame. Art
  17. Take it out to Steve at Leather Machine Co. They sell a machine with a 14 inch width, usually effective to 12 inches. Usually a tanner is the only one that will have a machine big enough to do a whole hide.
  18. This happens when the steel won't hold a very acute edge. For instance, there are a few (I won't name them) head knives that will take and hold 10 degrees a side (20 degrees included) for light duty. But when the steel isn't up to it, the effect is just as you describe. I have found that 18 to 20 degrees per side (36 to 40 degrees included) works for most leather knives. Art
  19. Getting in on the tail end of this, I generally derust then cold blue. If stainless or not to be blued, I use Johnsons paste wax. Art
  20. OR 600 with stropping. But keep the angle at 40°, 20° per side if it is a heavy user. The 1000 or 800 will work fine too, that doesn't have anything to do with edge strength or how long you will go between sharpenings. That's more of an angle thing. It is the old how sharp is sharp thing. It needs to be sharp enough to do the job, and 600 with stropping or 800 or 1000 won't make a lot of difference, but the angle with enough steel behind the edge makes a world of difference along with what you are cutting. Stripping out romex or cutting cardboard boxes needs more angle than cutting meat. Art
  21. I still use the Sharpie/Marks-a-Lot/Dykem to tell me what's going on. Even on machines I use it. Even with jigs I use it, because if the setup is wrong, the whole thing is wrong; and if you get your profile wrong by not grinding enough, it just won't cut right. If you grind too much, you're just wasting metal, so those guide lines are important. If I'm just putting an edge on a tool I will get away without marker, but for something critical, or a customer tool, always. Art
  22. I recommend that your first diamond stone should be a DMT diasharp 1000. You can use it to true-up your other stones. I also recommend something that is easy like a tri-hone. Baby oil (mineral oil) works just fine on these things and you can get things pretty sharp if you go up through the grits. The the finest stone on the two tri-hones I have is around 600 grit one is an original Smith 6" and the other is a big 10" monster sold by Tandy in the late '70s or early '80s. Both bought off of eBay for $20 or so. The 600 leaves the edge sharp with enough tooth to make cutting easier. A strop with green compound will refine that a little and make an acceptable using edge. One of the big errors I see a lot is getting the edge too smooth by going to extremely fine grits. The other thing is edge angle. I often use a 20° edge for a head knife, 10° each side, and it goes through leather wickedly, but I am maintaining it all the time, I have the tools to do it, and when I roll the edge, the knife flat stops cutting and I fix it. If I do it for someone else, a 30° to 40° angle is more appropriate for someone who doesn't sharpen a lot but knows how to strop. I can't say I use the tri-hones a lot, but if I am packing light, it goes in the bag. I use DMT diamond stones a lot. I have 120 micron (about 150 grit) up to 3 micron (about 8000 grit). I DO NOT use them dry, I use 50/50 simple green and water, it lubricates and cleans the stone. Right out of the box, these stones grade 3 to 5 microns rougher than they marked, which means a 9 micron (1000 grit) will be more like a 600 grit and eventually (it takes some use) work it's way up to a 9 micron (1000 grit). Edges on DMT stones can be brutal and I break the edges with a diamond lap. These things should NEVER be your first stones unless you use it to lap your other stones. Shapton makes very good stones, they call them ceramic whetstones, and I buy the stones they sell into the Japanese market as they are the same stones at a better price. They come in 120 grit to 30,000 grit. I don't go much higher than 8000 as it is hard to tell the difference between 5000 and 8000, much less 8000 and 12000. 30,000, I guess they just had to because they could. The 1000 is a good finish stone except for something like a luthier's chisel, but no luthier would let anyone touch his chisels, much less sharpen them. The number on the Shapton 1000 (Japanese) Ha No Kuromaku is #K0702, and I think it is around $40, great stone, great price. Remember, too sharp and too polished are real conditions. You need to sharpen based on the tool's use. Art
  23. Ah yes, but they built the Forth Rail Bridge using Imperial measurements. Then again, they also built the Tay bridge (prior Forth Rail Bridge) using Imperial Measurements too, and we know how THAT turned out. Art
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