Members SunshineNative Posted July 7, 2009 Members Report Posted July 7, 2009 HI, My 2 cents worth: Suede crawls when cut. So you really need a good angle and a sharp knife. Of course, you probably already know that, I am not a professional, just getting started in this venue. Sunshine Thanks Lobo. That's a great rig you have. I had been thinking of getting some suede. I think your suggestion is the little push I needed to go ahead and get some. I think it'll be more comfortable in the long run. I've never worked with suede before. Is there anything particular I should know about? It comes dyed already, but do I need to use any kind of top coat? Or is it just use as is? Quote Life isn't about the dates at birth or death. Its about how you live the time in between.
Members Shorts Posted July 17, 2009 Author Members Report Posted July 17, 2009 Good thoughts about suede yall. I'll be sure to keep them in mind if or when I decide on the final material. I've mostly finished with the adjustments from the customer's input. I'm wearing the adjusted prototype now for the afternoon to see how it goes. If well, then I'll be calling the customer for his pistols so I can get the holster portion built. I'm not 100% certain about using chicago screws as the adjustment mechanism for the straps. I'm finding it annoying and cumbersome. Also limiting if I don't put a million adjustment holes. Are there sliding loops or buckles that would offer an easier way of adjustment without compromising stability, concealment or comfort? Quote
Members Shorts Posted August 28, 2009 Author Members Report Posted August 28, 2009 Yes, I'm taking forever on this rig as the customer said "REALLY, no rush", but now it's time for the rig to go to home. I want to get her buttoned up in the next week and delivered. I've decided to use suede (4/5oz) for the straps. I'm stumped on the hardware I should use for it. I need bottom Drings for the holster portion to attached to. I also need some type of slider so that the length of the straps may be adjusted for fit. What hardware do I need to use? I've decided to abandon holes and chicago screws. That doesn't seem like it'd be right for suede straps. Plus that method us tedious and annoying to adjust. I'm taking a complete "Easy button" on this I've got a Weaver catalog and an OTB catalog onhand too. Quote
Contributing Member Jordan Posted August 28, 2009 Contributing Member Report Posted August 28, 2009 Although the photo does not show it real well, you could use a belt buckle with the center hole hook (dont remember the proper name for it LOL) removed and use it as a slider on the straps, friction of the double strap going through the buckle and over the center bar holds the strap in place once tightened. Quote
Members Shorts Posted September 1, 2009 Author Members Report Posted September 1, 2009 Although the photo does not show it real well, you could use a belt buckle with the center hole hook (dont remember the proper name for it LOL) removed and use it as a slider on the straps, friction of the double strap going through the buckle and over the center bar holds the strap in place once tightened. Thanks Jordan. I think you're talking about just a slide or a concave slide type piece, right? Quote
Contributing Member Jordan Posted September 1, 2009 Contributing Member Report Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) Yes, I made a slider for the guitar strap by taking the hook thingy off the center bar of the buckle. It might work with a much smaller buckle although tandy carries a slider with a center pin, I forget the name of it, which I have used after grinding off the post so I did not have to punch holes in the strap.Haha, looked alittle lower and behold a topic of Conway buckle! Edited September 1, 2009 by Jordan Quote
Members Shorts Posted September 1, 2009 Author Members Report Posted September 1, 2009 Yes, I made a slider for the guitar strap by taking the hook thingy off the center bar of the buckle. It might work with a much smaller buckle although tandy carries a slider with a center pin, I forget the name of it, which I have used after grinding off the post so I did not have to punch holes in the strap. Yeah, I was hoping to not punch holes, especially on the suede. I think it'd be easier to adjust just by sliding. But I also still need the strap to be secure. I'd hate for it to move on me if friction gives way. Do you think I'm giving the friction not enough credit to do the job? Quote
Contributing Member Jordan Posted September 1, 2009 Contributing Member Report Posted September 1, 2009 On that guitar strap I was curious about that so I put one end in my vise and pulled as hard as I could on the other end with barely any movement noted. It may not be as secure with a smaller slide and lighter leather though. Quote
Contributing Member Jordan Posted September 1, 2009 Contributing Member Report Posted September 1, 2009 You may have already thought about it, but I was just thinking of using a double D setup that would cinch up by pulling on the loose end of the strap. I noticed on some camping gear a plastic square buckle that has a serrated sliding bar that holds the strap tight when the loose end is pulled tight. Just thought I would throw these ideas out there. Jordan Quote
Members Shorts Posted September 1, 2009 Author Members Report Posted September 1, 2009 Thanks I'm using a 1" wide strap that tapers wider over the shoulder. It just finally clicked how to keep the holster portion modular yet adjustable to the should straps and utilize the double D rings. The Drings would be attached to the holster....Duh lol It toook me a bit to figure that out. That makes the shoulder strap portion universal to the holster or mag pouch so that it can be interchanged with other models. And the nstraps can be made super easy to adjust. I just had to take a look at our camping gear and or motorcycle helmets to get the placement right. Thanks Jordan, you made the idea finally click on my head and I can finally step forward and get on with the hardware portion Quote
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