paleathercrft Report post Posted July 4, 2009 Ok, i've been making leashes for a few months now out of some scrap leather that I got from a friend. I plan on using english bridle leather in 10oz and 12/13oz for heavy duty leads. What would be the best part of the cow to use, backs or sides? I can't remember where I read it, but backs are supposed to be cleaner ie. not many blems from barbed wire etc. Also what size edge beveler would be best to use on 10oz leather and what is good for 12/13oz? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paleathercrft Report post Posted July 11, 2009 Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paleathercrft Report post Posted July 14, 2009 ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johanna Report post Posted July 14, 2009 If you buy a side of leather, you are going to want to make your straps from the back section. The belly sections are too ragged and the leather is not as consistently thick, so you don't want to do strap work from "the bottom". Clamp the hide to a table and use a straight edge to make a straight edge with a sharp blade. (Rotary cutters work great for this job!) A strap cutter is the easiest way to make the straps. You can adjust the width easily. 10/12oz leather is rather thick for a dog leash, but it will work. To edge your straps, use an edger. The smaller the number on the edger, the less leather will be removed. You may want to play with some scrap to determine what kind of look and feel you want. Keep your edgers sharp to prevent them from "bouncing" and marking up your strap work. If you have a picture of one of your leashes, we can probably come up with more specific advice. A side of leather is going to be the most economical way to get your straps, and yes, the back is the strongest part of the hide. But if you are making a leash for a miniature poodle, the 10/12 oz might be too thick, especially where you double it over for the hardware. You can skive it down, but that reduces the strength. That makes no difference for the poodle, but might compromise a leash for a great dane or Rottweiler. Hope this helps Johanna Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
paleathercrft Report post Posted July 14, 2009 Yes 10/12 oz leather does sound kind of thick, but these leashes are targeted towards working dogs (gsd's, boxers, rottweilers). I planned on using 9/10 for leashes 5/8"-3/4" wide and the 12/13oz for leashes 3/8"-1/2" wide. The thinner width leashes are going to be show leads and need to be a little heavier weight since these working breeds are very strong. Here are a couple pics of a leash I made. It is 1/2" wide and the leather is 12/13oz bridle leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted July 14, 2009 If you are making them for working dogs, I'd recommend a clip that has a flat swivel eye vs. round. There will be less wear on the edges that way. Don't want a PPD breaking a lead in the showring. I've got 16 working line GSDs and I've shown 12 of them with a 24"-6 str braided kangaroo lead with a paracord core. It's all in the training. I like your ideas though. Good luck. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johanna Report post Posted July 14, 2009 Understand completely about the need for the stronger leather for the larger breed dogs. I used to have three healthy Rotts who could have probably towed my car with the right gear. Looking at your pics I have a suggestion- after you bevel your edges, try wetting them and burnishing the sides. I use a scrap piece of denim or canvas or deerskin, and it will remove the "fuzzies" from the edge. It just provides a more professional appearance. Also, keep in mind when you cut the leather and do the in-and-out, you are weakening it if you are doing it in a stressed area and not as decoration. Johanna Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted July 14, 2009 ....... Also, keep in mind when you cut the leather and do the in-and-out, you are weakening it if you doing it in a stressed area and not as decoration. Johanna LOL. I have always kept away from that form of "braiding" for that reason, but I couldn't get anyone to agree with me. When you're hauling around a working dog that just knows he's not supposed to be in a showring, every part of that lead is a "stressed area." lol Thank you, Johanna Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrokenLeashLeather Report post Posted July 22, 2009 I have always heard that braiding actually makes the work strong as the stress is spread out over more material. I know a few police dog trainers that braid their leads. If you do the braid, you need to punch a small round hole at both ends of the slit. This prevents the slit from tear under stress. Looks great! Anthony Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spence Report post Posted July 22, 2009 Anthony Yes, braiding does make a unit stronger, but that refers to leather lace or rope, using multiple strands and braided around a strong core. Backbraided or spliced properly, you have a stronger unit. But taking a straight strip/strap and cutting multiple slits and then spreading them with the width of that strap/strip creates undue stress on each and every slit. A hole at each end of each slit will only delay the inevitable. Also, many people use chrome tanned leather for these leashes because it is a softer product. Chrome tanning destroys the cells and adds to the weakened state of the leash. I do have some of those leashes, made out of well oiled leather for all-weather work. I keep them strategically posted throughout the kennel and training areas in case of an emergency. I will never use them off my property. If I have a decoy/helper working with me on bite work, I will not use those leads either. Granted, they are a nice-looking piece of work though. Just my $0.04 worth. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
