azrider Report post Posted July 20, 2009 One of the members at the last guild meeting demonstrated a glass slicker for me. I really liked it, but need to slow down on buying anymore tools right now. I saw a candle in a square jar this weekend... What is the best method for using a slicker? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted July 21, 2009 I wet my leather and slick when it is still carrying some moisture but not quite to "tooling dry" look. Too wet and it mushes around, and too dry and it burnishes. I will push the slicker ahead of me in all four directions. I use a light pressure and maybe increase as I go. Just depends on the firmness of the leather. Too hard on soft leather and you can push a wrinkle ahead of you and that's no good. Some guys pull first, and then push as the leather compresses. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deb59 Report post Posted July 21, 2009 Adam - Check out a local glass company. I told the guy what size I wanted and what I was using it for. He had a thick piece in the scraps that he cut and polished the edges of. I asked him how much and he just gave it to me. It does not have a wooden handle on it, but is smooth all the way around so I can't get cut and it works great! Thanks Deb Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted July 21, 2009 I do the almost same thing Bruce does. I push and pull. I also slick just before I bag my leather and then again, just before tooling. Why? I have no idea...but I like it! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RWB Report post Posted July 21, 2009 A chunk of hardwood works well to. Something really hard like cocobolla or ebony wood. Just make it wedge shape and polish it smooth. Something that hard won't need a lacquer or finish of any kind on it. That's what I use in my shop. Then just temper out your leather with the moisture content that Bruce talked about. I like to do it several times until it's dry. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
King's X Report post Posted July 21, 2009 I do the almost same thing Bruce does. I push and pull. I also slick just before I bag my leather and then again, just before tooling. Why? I have no idea...but I like it! Bob If Hidepounder does it, who cares why? Just do it! Obivously, after seeing your items and Bruces', you are guys are doing something right. I feel a glass slicker coming my way soon! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LarryDonaldson Report post Posted July 21, 2009 I'm new to leather work so here's the dumb question of the day. What do you slick leather for? Are you stretching the leather around something or trying to smooth out imperfections? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
azrider Report post Posted July 21, 2009 Other people can probably give a better answer, but what I saw was that the leather seemed denser, and more solid feeling. It took more pressure to use tools or a swivel knife, but the impressions seemed crisper. It also smoothed the imperfections in the leather quite a bit. Can anyone else comment? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RWB Report post Posted July 21, 2009 Larry, The reason for tempering you leather is to take the stretch out of it. By rubbing it on both sides when its wet it will compress the fibers down and compact them. You will typically temper stirrup leathers on a saddle. Why? Well becasue they are going to carry some of you weight, and if you don't they will have a tendency to stretch out on their own. Tooled belts that are single ply are good to temper as well, since when you stamp them the will have a tendency to stetch. Not only in lenght but also out of shape. And it does seem to give stamping a crisper appearance, but theres a lot of stuff out there that doen't get tempered that looks great. So some of that comes down to preference. Ross, www.nrcowboygear.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bree Report post Posted July 22, 2009 If Hidepounder does it, who cares why? Just do it! Obivously, after seeing your items and Bruces', you are guys are doing something right. I feel a glass slicker coming my way soon! LOL!! There ya go... now that is simple street wisdom! And I can't argue with it!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bruce johnson Report post Posted July 22, 2009 I am posting this reply under duress. Someone who has seen my shop wants everyone to know I did not always have a cool looking Barry King glass slicker. I will be outed if I don't show it. I started off with a wooden one, and broke it. Hearing the old tale about cocobola dust being toxic I followed EPA/OHSA/HazMat protocol and properly disposed of the pieces. I have since been informed that is not necessarily the case. Looking around the shop (and keeping with the title of this thread) I found an old piece of LDPE cutting board. I cut a slab, ran the router around 3 sides to round it over. The router actually left a nick free smooth edge requiring no additional buffing or anything. It really worked pretty good and I drilled a hole to hang it up. I was always going to get around to making one from new cutting board that didn't have punch holes and dings on it, but never did. It has character. I used it exclusively a good 3-4 years, and still do for some stuff. It is good for swell covers. If you hit a nail or tack and ding the edge, just run the router around or run it over a 120 grit on the bench top belt sander and back to work. I use the glass one on the carving leather, but the plastic one still gets used some if it is handier. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RWB Report post Posted July 22, 2009 I am posting this reply under duress. Someone who has seen my shop wants everyone to know I did not always have a cool looking Barry King glass slicker. I will be outed if I don't show it. I started off with a wooden one, and broke it. Hearing the old tale about cocobola dust being toxic I followed EPA/OHSA/HazMat protocol and properly disposed of the pieces. I have since been informed that is not necessarily the case. Looking around the shop (and keeping with the title of this thread) I found an old piece of LDPE cutting board. I cut a slab, ran the router around 3 sides to round it over. The router actually left a nick free smooth edge requiring no additional buffing or anything. It really worked pretty good and I drilled a hole to hang it up. I was always going to get around to making one from new cutting board that didn't have punch holes and dings on it, but never did. It has character. I used it exclusively a good 3-4 years, and still do for some stuff. It is good for swell covers. If you hit a nail or tack and ding the edge, just run the router around or run it over a 120 grit on the bench top belt sander and back to work. I use the glass one on the carving leather, but the plastic one still gets used some if it is handier. It wont break if you drop it o the concrete, that's for sure. If it works and works well use it. Ross www.nrcowboygear.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hidepounder Report post Posted July 22, 2009 I am posting this reply under duress. Someone who has seen my shop wants everyone to know I did not always have a cool looking Barry King glass slicker. I will be outed if I don't show it.I started off with a wooden one, and broke it. Hearing the old tale about cocobola dust being toxic I followed EPA/OHSA/HazMat protocol and properly disposed of the pieces. I have since been informed that is not necessarily the case. Looking around the shop (and keeping with the title of this thread) I found an old piece of LDPE cutting board. I cut a slab, ran the router around 3 sides to round it over. The router actually left a nick free smooth edge requiring no additional buffing or anything. It really worked pretty good and I drilled a hole to hang it up. I was always going to get around to making one from new cutting board that didn't have punch holes and dings on it, but never did. It has character. I used it exclusively a good 3-4 years, and still do for some stuff. It is good for swell covers. If you hit a nail or tack and ding the edge, just run the router around or run it over a 120 grit on the bench top belt sander and back to work. I use the glass one on the carving leather, but the plastic one still gets used some if it is handier. Bruce, I can relate to your experience. I spent a ton on a beautiful Cocobolo slicker and brought it home to Phoenix, where it immediately cracked in our dry climate! Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
