TTcustom Report post Posted August 16, 2009 (edited) Here are just some of the tools I have made for myself. First I wanted to dome my copper rivets and the Tandy store didn't have these in stock. I wasn't so hep to the interwebs and I have the resources to make a lot of "metally" things so how hard could these domers be? I used round bar stock cut-offs and an appropriate ball end mill in a metal lathe and turned these. Then I saw all the cool kids using these awesome and beautiful mauls. So I went to a local supplier and got a chunk of nylon (??? whatever it was it may be too soft) that was also a cut-off. I used some large round bar stock cut-offs for the cap and base and then bought some 1/2" all thread and an acorn nut at Ace Hardware. I used the largest punch I could find and also cut out the larger leather washers. I mounted these on the left over all thread and clamped them tight as I could turn the nut. Then in the lathe I turned the handle using files and a shureform ("cheesegrate") rasp to get the contour I wanted. Using progressive grits of sandpaper down to about 220 I smoothed it out. After seeing here the leatherworker from Kazakhstan's work I noted his use of drift punches in the borders. So I thought that it would be cool to have a "bullseye" stamp to use in this manner. I tried it out on a scrap piece and I think I like it. So that is some of what I made so far. Right now I am fooling around making other stamps from the inspiration I have been getting from y'all. I forgot to add that over time the leather washers in my maul have compressed and I had to add on. I never figured on them compressing any further. Edited August 16, 2009 by TTcustom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pancho47 Report post Posted August 16, 2009 nice i like em Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tonyc1 Report post Posted August 16, 2009 Here are just some of the tools I have made for myself. First I wanted to dome my copper rivets and the Tandy store didn't have these in stock. I wasn't so hep to the interwebs and I have the resources to make a lot of "metally" things so how hard could these domers be? I used round bar stock cut-offs and an appropriate ball end mill in a metal lathe and turned these. Then I saw all the cool kids using these awesome and beautiful mauls. So I went to a local supplier and got a chunk of nylon (??? whatever it was it may be too soft) that was also a cut-off. I used some large round bar stock cut-offs for the cap and base and then bought some 1/2" all thread and an acorn nut at Ace Hardware. I used the largest punch I could find and also cut out the larger leather washers. I mounted these on the left over all thread and clamped them tight as I could turn the nut. Then in the lathe I turned the handle using files and a shureform ("cheesegrate") rasp to get the contour I wanted. Using progressive grits of sandpaper down to about 220 I smoothed it out. After seeing here the leatherworker from Kazakhstan's work I noted his use of drift punches in the borders. So I thought that it would be cool to have a "bullseye" stamp to use in this manner. I tried it out on a scrap piece and I think I like it. So that is some of what I made so far. Right now I am fooling around making other stamps from the inspiration I have been getting from y'all. I forgot to add that over time the leather washers in my maul have compressed and I had to add on. I never figured on them compressing any further. That Bullseye stamp is very nice! Tony. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Romey Report post Posted August 17, 2009 Always nice to see tools made rather then bought, kudos Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TTcustom Report post Posted August 17, 2009 Always nice to see tools made rather then bought, kudos Thanks! It really is the result of being cheap and or poor! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasLady Report post Posted August 17, 2009 Thanks! It really is the result of being cheap and or poor! 8/18/09 That, and probably having an over-abundance of creativity. Good job! Thanks for posting. I'd been reading somewhere on this forum about how to heat up metal (as for a knife blade, I believe) and when it gets to a certain color (red? blue?) thrusting it into cold water. I didn't 'save' the link to that posting, and now, I can't find it anywhere. If anyone knows where that is, please get back to me. Before I'd found this forum, I'd already bought a rawhide 'dog bone' toy at a Dollar Store, soaked it, separated the pieces, and experimented with cutting it and drying it. Although I own a great rawhide hammer, I don't want to take that one with me when I go places where I might loose it or forget it. So, my intention is to make a 'knock-off' cheapie using the rawhide from the dollar chew-toy and maybe attaching it to a dollar store hammer,... somehow. TexasLady Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TTcustom Report post Posted August 17, 2009 (edited) Wow I look forward to pics of your Rawhide hammer. I think there are a couple of blacksmiths/knifesmiths here that can answer your metal tempering question. There are several websites that explain better than I could. Wikipedia article on Metal TemperInstructional on tempering metal click here. Edited August 17, 2009 by TTcustom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasLady Report post Posted August 18, 2009 Wow I look forward to pics of your Rawhide hammer. I think there are a couple of blacksmiths/knifesmiths here that can answer your metal tempering question. There are several websites that explain better than I could. Wikipedia article on Metal TemperInstructional on tempering metal click here. 8/18/09 Thanks for the links on tempering metal that I needed, TTcustom. I'll have a look at them in a minute. And thanks for encouraging me in my 'cheap rawhide hammer' quest. Although, I'm suspicious that you "look forward to pics" of it just because you know it will give you a good laugh! I'm considering 'sewing' the rawhide strip 'spiral' (while soft) to another piece of flat rawhide (while soft), then stretching that flat piece over the $1 hammer. And I'll tie it on to dry with either twine or leather lace. I don't want to use glue, as I doubt that that would hold up at all. Also, I've already spray painted the hammer head with enamel paint, in hopes of slowing down corrosion. -TexasLady Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TTcustom Report post Posted August 21, 2009 Seriously I was just eyeballing a $40 rawhide mallet and thinking about it myself. I made two new stamps that get used like a meander style stamp. Had to show them off. Thank you Kazakhstan! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RichardCollmorgen Report post Posted August 22, 2009 How did you make the rivet domer? I can't visualize how to get a consistent curve on the tip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tomcat Report post Posted August 22, 2009 8/18/09That, and probably having an over-abundance of creativity. Good job! Thanks for posting. I'd been reading somewhere on this forum about how to heat up metal (as for a knife blade, I believe) and when it gets to a certain color (red? blue?) thrusting it into cold water. I didn't 'save' the link to that posting, and now, I can't find it anywhere. If anyone knows where that is, please get back to me. Before I'd found this forum, I'd already bought a rawhide 'dog bone' toy at a Dollar Store, soaked it, separated the pieces, and experimented with cutting it and drying it. Although I own a great rawhide hammer, I don't want to take that one with me when I go places where I might loose it or forget it. So, my intention is to make a 'knock-off' cheapie using the rawhide from the dollar chew-toy and maybe attaching it to a dollar store hammer,... somehow. TexasLady Is this the thread you were looking for? http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16959 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TTcustom Report post Posted August 22, 2009 How did you make the rivet domer? I can't visualize how to get a consistent curve on the tip. Richard- I used a ball end mill in the tail stock on the metal lathe and for a #14 domer I used a 3/8" radius. For the #10 I use a 5/8" radius. I attached a picture of ball end mills. Hope this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jbird Report post Posted August 23, 2009 Great tools I like. Josh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites