Wade vs. Weatherly vs. 3B

[loopinluke]

This is gonna sound like a stupid question but could someone explain the specific differences between a wade, weatherly, and 3B Visalia tree? I have ridden all three and never could really tell the difference, and as I am working on ordering my first tree I was wondering as to the differences.

Thanks,

Lucas

[bruce johnson]

Luke,

Good question and hopefully the tree folks will weigh in. There are enough varieties of the Wades that they are almost a world by themselves. Each tree maker probably uses a little different definition, they do for everything else. You kind of have to go by whatever system they use.

One tree maker explained to me that basically the difference he uses in the slick fork styles is the thickness of the stock. The general profile viewed from the front doesn't change much, but how much lip is is front of the horn does.

I read a deal about the 3B. Going off memory here. The tree styles were numbered, and each version or upgrade was "lettered". The number 3 tree had a version A, and when they made some improvement, the next version was the 3B. I am not sure if this was with the Taylor trees or with Visalia themselves.

[Steve Brewer]

Where to start,A 3 b is usually made on 3 1/2" stock for the swell,while the wade is cut out of 4 to 5" stock.The wades of today have changed alot from the original.Most tree makers have thier own version.The tree maker I use has 4 different styles of Wade,Homestead,Wade 58,Hamley Wade,and a cliff wade.You will need to talk with the tree maker and find the one that works for you.

Steve

[D.A. Kabatoff]

Lucas,

the three trees in question have a few differences with the most obvious being the stock thickness... this is the top line of the fork measured from the front lip to the back side (nearest the rider). Warren Wright has told me in the past that his Wade tree is as close to the original Wade tree as is possible. When he was in the U.S. a number of years ago he tracked down that saddle and took every imaginable measurement off of it and that is what he models his trees after... that said, his fork stock thickness is 5"s and the original had a woodpost horn.

A Weatherly tree as explained to me by some treemakers who are also historians on the subject, has a 4" stock thickness and a 3B has a 3 1/2" like Steve mentioned; these stock thickness' are usually measured before the tree is rawhided so you could add a little more thickness to account for the rawhide. There are also some differences in the gullet height which I won't comment on specifically but a Wade tree has a lower height than a 3B or a Weatherly.

The fork width is another unclear area as some 3b trees were wider than others and I suspect the same may be true for the Weatherly tree.

Darc

[loopinluke]

Thanks for the responses all. I thought that those were the differences but I wasn't sure. I am working on ordering my first tree and I am just trying to convert what I know about trees and saddles from all the miles ridden in them to what I need to order a tree and build the saddle. I like the bigger lip in front of the horn on the wades but I think the gullet height is more important to me so I will probably go with a weatherly.

[D.A. Kabatoff]

Hey Lucas,

part of the modern day confusion comes from all the hybrid type trees out there... if you like the extra lip in front of the horn, it doesn't have to be all or nothing. You could order a "modified Wade" that has the extra stock thickness you like but specify to the tree maker that you want the extra clearance in the gullet to fit whatever kinds of horses you are trying to fit. I'm currently working on a saddle right now that when finished, to the average eye, will look like a Wade. It actually has a 4 1/2" stock thickness (half inch shorter than a wade)that some might say makes it a Ray Hunt style Wade. It actually has a gullet height which is taller than a typical Wade but once covered with leather, it would take a discerning eye to tell the difference.

Darc

[steveh]

Lucas,

Keep in mind how you cover your fork will effect the final appearence.For example, if you tack your fork cover in the front underneath the gullet it will give you a much rounder appearence, where as if you use a folded tension welt the fold and the extra layer leather will add a lip and stick out futher in the front.

steve

[loopinluke]

Thanks for the responses all they are proving very helpful and giving me more things to think about.

Lucas