How thick is thick enough not to back.

[anester05]

I want to make a diplomat pouch but do not want to line it. how thick should the leather be so I can carve the back and front and not have to back it. I'm thinking 8-9oz and I will carve only a small portion?

Thanks,

Adam

[hidepounder]

anester05,

If I understand you correctly....you are not going to line and are concerned about leather stretch. There are a couple of methods where you back your leather and not have to deal with cement residue on the flesh side.

You can glue to acrylic using Barge cement on the acrylic only....apply the leather to it while the glue is still a little wet. I have done this successfully on several occassions but really don't like doing it because I get such a messy glue build-up on the acrylic. Also, If I don't apply the leather to the glue at just the right degree of wetness, the leather can release during tooling.

Another method which I have never tried but have heard toolers talk about is to apply packing tape on the back of the leather and then glue the piece down to a backer using rubber cement. The tape protects the flesh side of the leather. Packing tape can leave a slight reisdue but not enough to be of any concern. I think this sounds like a good method and I'm going to try it but I haven't so far.

To answer you question more directly....8/9oz will still stretch. I would design my pattern to allow for some stretching where you can adjust for it along the margins. In other words, make you margins a little oversize with the thought in mind that you will be trimming them back to get to the desired size. If your piece warps horribly you can always re-wet the piece and place it under weights (books, etc.) to hold it flat until it dries. Try not to re-wet too much as it will affect the tooling.

I hope this helps....

Bobby

[TTcustom]

I agree with everything Bob said, experience is a great teacher.

I cover the back of my leather with blue painter's tape before I glue it down to the illustration board, or whatever you use. It comes off the leather without leaving any significant residue and I still get good glue down to reduce stretching.

[anester05]

anester05,

If I understand you correctly....you are not going to line and are concerned about leather stretch. There are a couple of methods where you back your leather and not have to deal with cement residue on the flesh side.

You can glue to acrylic using Barge cement on the acrylic only....apply the leather to it while the glue is still a little wet. I have done this successfully on several occassions but really don't like doing it because I get such a messy glue build-up on the acrylic. Also, If I don't apply the leather to the glue at just the right degree of wetness, the leather can release during tooling.

Another method which I have never tried but have heard toolers talk about is to apply packing tape on the back of the leather and then glue the piece down to a backer using rubber cement. The tape protects the flesh side of the leather. Packing tape can leave a slight reisdue but not enough to be of any concern. I think this sounds like a good method and I'm going to try it but I haven't so far.

To answer you question more directly....8/9oz will still stretch. I would design my pattern to allow for some stretching where you can adjust for it along the margins. In other words, make you margins a little oversize with the thought in mind that you will be trimming them back to get to the desired size. If your piece warps horribly you can always re-wet the piece and place it under weights (books, etc.) to hold it flat until it dries. Try not to re-wet too much as it will affect the tooling.

I hope this helps....

Bobby

Maybe the rubber cement I use is the wrong stuff? I buy the blue canister Tanners Bond from Tandy which is their rubber cement, and it is really really strong I get stretch just by removing the leather from the backing board. If I apply the leather to the board when it is dry then the leather rips when I pull it off. So I started to use Elmers rubber cement because it is weaker.

Edited September 9, 2009 by anester05

[TTcustom]

Yeah the "new formula" for the tandy rubber cement is brutal. I doesn't let go easily, just another reason why I use the painters tape on the back of my leather. I also have been buying the elmer's rubber cement. During back to school season I can get a great deal on them. It does seem to be more like the old tandy rubber cement but I haven't used enough of it to say. I still have half a can of the "Supertandy rubber cement" :roll:

[anester05]

Yeah the "new formula" for the tandy rubber cement is brutal. I doesn't let go easily, just another reason why I use the painters tape on the back of my leather. I also have been buying the elmer's rubber cement. During back to school season I can get a great deal on them. It does seem to be more like the old tandy rubber cement but I haven't used enough of it to say. I still have half a can of the "Supertandy rubber cement" :roll:

As long as it is not just me having the problem. I guess I will be buying some regular old barge and see what happens.

I wonder if diluting the cement with thinner would make it weak enough?

Edited September 9, 2009 by anester05

[TTcustom]

So far my experience is that the superTandy rubber cement just scoffs at the thinner. It makes nice weak contact cement though!

[anester05]

I think I have just decided to line it anyway less hassle. I was just trying to cut cost ohwell. Also does anyone line their belts?