Here's a few new ones I just finished

[Rock76]

All for a 5" Colt 1911. Comments are always welcome

First photos a little washed out looking. It's actually cordovan with black trim..really...I swear. Man, I stink at photography!

-Adam

Edited September 20, 2009 by Rock76

[303brit]

Very nice. I like the front loop attachment.

I hope to get up to that quality one of these days.

[Rock76]

Very nice. I like the front loop attachment.

I hope to get up to that quality one of these days.

Thanks! You're in the right place to improve your leatherworking. The good people of this site have an answer to any question you could think of.

The front loop attachment with the trailing loop works better for me than side by side loops. I basically took the shape of the trailing "flap" on the cordovan holster and turned it into a wrap-around style iwb. For me, this gets rid of any forward and backward directional rotation. YMMV

BTW

-Adam

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Awesome job there, Rock76. Good design and excellent loop placement to make the butt of the grip stay in tight.

[Lobo]

Just as good as it can get. Exceptionally nice workmanship and finish.

[Redd]

Very nice I especially like the shape of the first one,but they are all perfect well done,Hope I get there some day.

Redd

[Rock76]

303brit, Lobo, Redd- Thanks for the kind words! I really try to constantly improve with each one I do, and really appreciate the encouragement.

Jeff, I actually played around with the loop placement on various holster styles quite a lot. I found that moving the rear loop closer to the direction of the magwell worked well to pull the gun butt in at first, but after awhile as the holster breaks in, the grip starts creeping away from my side. On the other hand, the rear loop moved in too close to the body of the gun makes for an unyielding lump at my side. Especially with thicker pistols like the Glock 21. Thanks a lot for the compliments!

-Adam

Edited September 20, 2009 by Rock76

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Have you ever thought of trying a metal stiffener between the layers between the pistol and the rear loop? The hold won't change as much once the holster breaks in. Just an idea for you to play with.

[Rock76]

Have you ever thought of trying a metal stiffener between the layers between the pistol and the rear loop? The hold won't change as much once the holster breaks in. Just an idea for you to play with.

Ya know, I never thought of that. I just wonder if the "edge" of the stiffener would start to show through on the leather eventually. Hmmm... something for me to think about. I do so love trying new stuff.

-Adam

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Ya know, I never thought of that. I just wonder if the "edge" of the stiffener would start to show through on the leather eventually. Hmmm... something for me to think about. I do so love trying new stuff.

-Adam

A thin gauge sheet steel run about 1/4" shy of the stitch line near the top of the holster will do it. You just need to make sure the edges are dulled so they won't cut through the leather and that they are far enough from the stitch line that you don't run a needle into the sheet metal. The steel should be thin enough that the holster can be bent and shaped if it needs to be to fit the user's body a little better. Or try your own method to get similar results and let us know how it works out.

[Rock76]

That's an interesting idea. I'll have to give that one a try down the road. Thanks for the suggestion, Jeff.

-Adam

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Are you doing any work with exotics yet? That first holster is just crying for some black shark or elephant as an accent (it will look good, and it will wear better, too). Let me know if you want to give it a try and I'll send you a piece to play with.

Edited September 21, 2009 by BOOMSTICKHolsters

[Rock76]

Are you doing any work with exotics yet? That first holster is just crying for some black shark or elephant as an accent (it will look good, and it will wear better, too).

I actually thought the same thing about the first holster. I've been REALLY itching to start doing some exotic trim,

but I've been holding off because I read somewhere that sometimes it's pretty common to have to do some significant skiving (especially ostrich) to even out the skin before glueing and sewing it to the backing leather. Is that pretty accurate? I'm not really set up to do any major skiving, and wasn't sure if the small hand version would do the job.

Let me know if you want to give it a try and I'll send you a piece to play with

What a generous offer! PM sent

-Adam

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I actually thought the same thing about the first holster. I've been REALLY itching to start doing some exotic trim,

but I've been holding off because I read somewhere that sometimes it's pretty common to have to do some significant skiving (especially ostrich) to even out the skin before glueing and sewing it to the backing leather. Is that pretty accurate? I'm not really set up to do any major skiving, and wasn't sure if the small hand version would do the job.

Some skins require skiving, but most of the ones I use don't. I suppose it depends on the weight of the hide and where you get it. It is a MAJOR pain in the butt to skive exotics if you don't have access to a mechanical skiver. I usually just sand the pieces to get the results I want. In many cases, I don't find it necessary to back the accents with cowhide, but that will depend on your construction and finishing process so you may decide it is necessary after some experimentation. I have reinforced the accents with sheet metal in the past for holsters that needed to have a strong opening yet remain very thin, so you might consider that as an alternative, but realize that you will have a LOT more time in the holster by time you are finished with it.

[Rock76]

Thanks for the tips, and the heads up on the skiving issue. I'm looking forward to some experimenting.

-Adam