CEversole Report post Posted September 23, 2009 What is the best way to go about re fleecing saddle skirts? Thanks. -Cord Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmace Report post Posted September 23, 2009 What is the best way to go about re fleecing saddle skirts? Thanks. -Cord Take the skirts off, remove old and install new, and put back on exactly like they were before you took them off. Working on one of these jobs myself and it is literally as simple as taking it apart, glueing/sewing your new liner in, and remembering how to put it back like it was. If it is like the one I am working on it needs more than the fleece, so for such a simple job in principal it can be hard to actually do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denise Report post Posted September 24, 2009 Here's an old thread with a neat tip on how to get rid of the old stitches more simply than you would have thought. It doesn't seem to want to take my cut and paste, so if this doesn't work, just search "picking stitches" and you will find a topic "not relishing the hours picking stitches" or something like that. That's the one you want. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
justken Report post Posted September 24, 2009 Hi All! Came up with a slick way to sew through sheepskin/wool. I had taken a slightly bent sewing machine needle out of my 97-10 and put it into a awl haft.When you run it through from top down,you stick your bottom sewing needle into groove. When you pull machine needle out, the sewing needle will come right with it.Works really slick,I can sew just about as fast as with plain leather. No more hunting bottom holes.There are probly a lot more ways of doing this,but this has worked the best for me so far.Hope this helps..Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crystal Report post Posted September 24, 2009 Here's an old thread with a neat tip on how to get rid of the old stitches more simply than you would have thought. It doesn't seem to want to take my cut and paste, so if this doesn't work, just search "picking stitches" and you will find a topic "not relishing the hours picking stitches" or something like that. That's the one you want. Here's the link: http://leatherworker...showtopic=12224 I tried the copy/paste with the search results and it wouldn't paste for me either, Denise. Went back to original post and it worked. (I think). Crystal Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Saddlebag Report post Posted October 13, 2009 When I add the new fleece I add glue but not near the stitch line. I'll add a few basting stitches about every 6-8", closer near a corner. It takes only about 10 min to each skirt. My big machine has a micrometer setting so I'm able to use the original holes. Does a beautiful job and the basting stitches are removed as I'm stitching. Perfect job every time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOOTMKR Report post Posted January 24, 2010 (edited) What is the best way to go about re fleecing saddle skirts? Thanks. -Cord Cord, Make sure you run the your sheep skin the right way also. Lonnie Edited January 24, 2010 by BOOTMKR Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB BRENNER Report post Posted January 24, 2010 Cord, When re-fleecing skirts, a lot of people miss one important step. The skirts must be pressed and re-blocked. The sheepskin has a tendency to shrink over time, causing the skirt edge and corners to cup inward. If the skits are not pressed flat when you stitch on the new sheepskin by machine the old needle holes are not on the same vertical plane as the machine needle. This can cause problems: the needle will follow the old hole which can result in missed stitches or worse a broken needle or the needle will follow the vertical plane and bust out on the edge of the skirt plug leaving a mess. Note: if machine stitching watch your thread tension so the new thread does not pull through the skirt. When hand stitching it gives you a odd angle. I have found as a matter of course that I replace the skirt plug also. It makes the job easier. If the skirts are not re-blocked the saddle will not fit a horse properly. As a side note; when pressing the skirts protect the finish side of the skirt with plastic wrap, wax paper. or something similar. If this is not done the skirt can stick leaving a mark. The average cost of a re-line should be around $350.00. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites