Members liveneasy Posted March 26, 2008 Members Report Posted March 26, 2008 I'd like to start out with a big thank you to all the forum members for sharing their expertise. I stumbled upon this site a couple of weeks ago while searching for a leather holster for my Bersa .380. I've had this particular gun for a couple of months now and found the choice of holsters lacking.... especially because I like to carry it cross draw and nobody makes one in a cant that I want. After reading all the posts and checking out the pictures in the holster forum I decided to try making my own. So this is my second attempt at working with leather, the first being way back when I was a cub scout I put together a wallet kit. I figured I'd start with something easy.... and if I made a few mistakes it wouldn't show quite so much because the holster would spend most of it's time in my pocket. Here's what I came up. The black dots were to highlight the stitch holes, all I had was a pen but I thought the stitching would cover them up.... my bad. My next project will be an attempt at a concealed OWB cross draw holster for the Bersa. Suggestions and comments please. Greg Quote
Contributing Member Regis Posted March 26, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted March 26, 2008 Greg, First, welcome to this great forum. I wish my 1st holster turned out as good. That should function well. After dying, you can sand (rounding somewhat) the edges and burnish. Moisten the edge and rub vigorously to laydown the fibers. Put on edgekote and rub more. Lately, I've been using acrylic resolene for a finish. There are some excellent and very experienced makers here that will help you with specifics along the way. An edger and stitch groover will help on your next one. Quote God, Family, and Country (although liberals are attempting to destroy these in the USA)
Contributing Member Jordan Posted March 26, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted March 26, 2008 Not bad for 1st one. For me paper is alot cheaper than leather so play with your bersa outline on some patterns. I found that reversing the patterns and tweaking angles will give you a pretty good crossdraw pattern, I also found just looking at holsters in the shops around here gave me lots of construction clues and ideas to try. And with paper you can just toss it if it doesn't work out instead of trying to repurpose a messed up piece of leather. Welcome and be sure to post what you come up with so I can borrow it LOL, Jordan Quote
Members liveneasy Posted March 27, 2008 Author Members Report Posted March 27, 2008 Thanks for the welcome and information. Today was the first trial of the holster in public and it worked just fine. The holster did a good job of concealing the Bersa in my pocket with only minor printing (I was probably the only one that noticed) and practice draws were smooth. I tried it with several pairs of shorts, it's hot here, and the pocket retention of the holster and ease of drawing the weapon was better then I expected. I will try dressing the edges but will probably keep the finish natural. Any suggestions on a 'top dressing' that would aid in keeping it clean and stain free, or is that the purpose of the acrylic resolene? I recall reading on the forum that someone dips their holsters in a 50% resolene solution. That would be a major mess/waste for only one holster so I assume brushing it on would be the best method for me. Thanks again, Greg Quote
Randyc Posted March 27, 2008 Report Posted March 27, 2008 Greg Nice job on your holster and welcome to the forum. I've been using Fieblings Tan kote on the holsters that I want to leave natural. I apply it with a swab. It only darkens the leather slightly. I've attached a couple of my holsters that have been treated with Tan Kote. Randy Quote Randy Cooley Bulldog Custom Gun Leather www.bulldogleathercompany.com
Members Srigs Posted March 27, 2008 Members Report Posted March 27, 2008 Very nice job for the first holster and you can't go wrong with a pocket holster. Now wrap your gun in plastic wrap and then wet mold the holster by dunking in hot tap water for 5 seconds, wipe off the excess water, put the gun wrapped up and lightly form the holster to the gun for about 10-15 minutes of setup and then pull the gun and let it dry. This also might remove the dots of pen color and of course you can dye it next and/or top coat it with Resolene cut 50/50 or Tandy Satin sheen. Keep up the good work and look forward to seeing the finished product and how it works for you. A cross draw is very ambitious but give it a whirl. Suggestion is start with a pancake design and many designs on paper before cutting leather. Lastly ask questions and we can help. Quote Srigs, http://www.sideguardholsters.com "If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking" - George S. Patton.
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