Strap Cutting

[Bar C Leather]

For the life of me I cannot seem to cut a truly straight strap of any width with my hand strap cutter. I'm looking for a strap cutting machine as I feel I'm at a point in mybusiness when ramping up production will be beneficial and necessary. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money! (I like to call myself a "frugalista" but my husband just says I'm cheap.)

I know of the hand crank strap cutter by Weaver for I think $1300 and then there are the big machines for more $. I recently found a machine on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120275481373&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

The brand is Leather Pro and it is a Model 4 strap cutter. Price is $825 + $45 S&H Comes with a 6 month warranty but I've never heard of the company or machine before. Any advice? Anyone selling a used strap cutting machine? ;o)

Thanks!

[Cobra Steve]

For the life of me I cannot seem to cut a truly straight strap of any width with my hand strap cutter. I'm looking for a strap cutting machine as I feel I'm at a point in mybusiness when ramping up production will be beneficial and necessary. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money! (I like to call myself a "frugalista" but my husband just says I'm cheap.)

I know of the hand crank strap cutter by Weaver for I think $1300 and then there are the big machines for more $. I recently found a machine on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

The brand is Leather Pro and it is a Model 4 strap cutter. Price is $825 + $45 S&H Comes with a 6 month warranty but I've never heard of the company or machine before. Any advice? Anyone selling a used strap cutting machine? ;o)

Thanks!

Hi Bar C Leather, I have never heard of that brand, but myself and some others sell the 14 inch strap cutter. They do a great job, and come with 8 cutting blades along with multiple spacers. Thanks, Steve

[frontpost]

Looks like a good deal, is it made in China? Also check if you can get extra blades, if you can't I would not buy it. Some times it's nice to have a helper when your cutting a side. With out help your straps may not be straight.

[Bar C Leather]

_{Steve - Thank you! I know I was at the Cobra site but I'm pretty sure it was out of my current budget. I'll take another look.}

_{Frontpost - Not sure what a helper is...I'm guessing either a guide or platform of sorts. I just found out they import them (don't know where from yet) but they do sell replacement blades and parts. Don't think I want it if its from China.}

_{Thank You!!}

Edited October 12, 2009 by Bar C Leather

[tonyc1]

_{Steve - Thank you! I know I was at the Cobra site but I'm pretty sure it was out of my current budget. I'll take another look.}

_{Frontpost - Not sure what a helper is...I'm guessing either a guide or platform of sorts. I just found out they import them (don't know where from yet) but they do sell replacement blades and parts. Don't think I want it if its from China.}

_{Thank You!!}

You can probably get a helper from China these days too!

Tony.

[awharness]

Sergey Belosiva (sp) he'd down in Lancaster County PA, his brother makes shoes and he sells machinery to a lot of the Amish, Good guy very knowledgable. I've seen the strap cutters, they work pretty good for small jobs from what I understand.

-Andrew

www.awharness.com

[Bar C Leather]

Sergey Belosiva (sp) he'd down in Lancaster County PA, his brother makes shoes and he sells machinery to a lot of the Amish, Good guy very knowledgable. I've seen the strap cutters, they work pretty good for small jobs from what I understand.

-Andrew

www.awharness.com

Thank you Andrew. That's very helpful, it's always good to know a little about the people behind the machinery. I'm a one woman operation working in my "spare time" so if you say good for small jobs, I don't imagine it can't handle what I dish out!!

~

Natalie

[frontpost]

_{Frontpost - Not sure what a helper is...I'm guessing either a guide or platform of sorts. I just found out they import them (don't know where from yet) but they do sell replacement blades and parts. Don't think I want it if its from China.}

_{Thank You!!}

Helper: A person to help hold the hide to make a straight cut.

[Saddlebag]

Check Caledon Leather in Calgary Alberta. They have a model that clamps to the counter and I believe it's under $300. I had the same problem so I clamped my little cutter in the vice which I had screwed into the corner of my work table. My cutter is the metal one. This enables me to use both hands to control my work. When you start your end make sure you are going with the grain rather than against. Huge difference in how it cuts.

[kevinhopkins]

there's a guy named Roy Peakes that seems to have used strap cutters most of the time, and if he doesn't, he can find them. If you'll email me, I'll happily pass his number on to you. I'm at home, and don't have it here, or I'd post it.

Kevin@springfieldleather.com

[Slickbald]

Regarding the "helper"... As a one man shop, I use bench clamps (third hand clamps) available from Weaver and likely other places.

Regarding the "helper"... As a one man shop, I use bench clamps (third hand clamps) available from Weaver and likely other places.

[impulse]

For the life of me I cannot seem to cut a truly straight strap of any width with my hand strap cutter. I'm looking for a strap cutting machine as I feel I'm at a point in mybusiness when ramping up production will be beneficial and necessary. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money! (I like to call myself a "frugalista" but my husband just says I'm cheap.)

Suggest you invest in a plough gauge. These are readily available used, and with a sharp blade you can accurately cut a belt in 30 secs.

Lois

[bruce johnson]

I like plough gauges too for straps of any width. The blade is in line with your hand and you push them. There is no torque as the strap gets wider like on draw gauges. I use draw gauges for 3/4 inch or under and plough gauges for anything else. I have a wide one that will do 8" widths and I do use it that wide for cutting wide strips out for doubled reins. I use ones with a shorter beam for general use. The roller in front of the blade keeps the leather from climbing up the blade and off the guide like can happen with draw gauges too. Plough gauges are used on the table top, you don't need to be off the table or over the edge like a draw gauge either.

[alb]

I think I'm using my plough gauge incorrectly. It is certainly easier for me than a draw gauge to get a perfectly straight strap, but sometimes it feels like I'm putting a tremendous amount of torque on the gauge in an attempt to keep it straight. What do you focus on when cutting a strap?

I like plough gauges too for straps of any width. The blade is in line with your hand and you push them. There is no torque as the strap gets wider like on draw gauges. I use draw gauges for 3/4 inch or under and plough gauges for anything else. I have a wide one that will do 8" widths and I do use it that wide for cutting wide strips out for doubled reins. I use ones with a shorter beam for general use. The roller in front of the blade keeps the leather from climbing up the blade and off the guide like can happen with draw gauges too. Plough gauges are used on the table top, you don't need to be off the table or over the edge like a draw gauge either.

[bruce johnson]

I think I'm using my plough gauge incorrectly. It is certainly easier for me than a draw gauge to get a perfectly straight strap, but sometimes it feels like I'm putting a tremendous amount of torque on the gauge in an attempt to keep it straight. What do you focus on when cutting a strap?

I had the same trouble when I first started using a draw gauge. An old man showed me how he did it ("and old men are generally wise"). The tendency is to want to look at the blade since that is where the cutting action is. He told me to just look at the fence or guide as you work. Keep the edge lined up on that and the blade will take care of itself. When I went to plough gauges I mucked up the first strap, by watching the blade. Once I looked at the fence, no more problems.

HOWEVER, one thing to be aware of. The blade angle needs to be pretty right on alignment wise with the guide in a draw gauge or a plough gauge. If the angle is off enough the blade might want to track in or out and that can really mess you up and that torque deal gets big in a hurry. The draw gauge blade slots are not 100% precise, and so even taking a blade out and putting it back in can be a slightly different angle from just bit of change of positioning in that slot. Usually a few strokes on a fine stone and stropping on the offending side of the blade will make a big difference.

The same thing can happen with plough gauges, although a bit less of problem. There is a longer slot for the blade and they are generally more precision made so the blades tend to go back the same. Once the blade angle is set, then equal stropping on both sides will maintain it.

The other thing that can happen with either one is that the fence and guide may not be exactly at the right 90 degree angle with the beam. The blade may be eqaully sharpened but isn't being presented squarely into the leather. The older draw gauge and plough gauges made with matching numbers on the frame and beam were individally made and matched to be precise. Some are dead on and some are probably off some. The new ones are supposed to be precise and are mass prdocued and not "matched". They can be off just as much or more. Again, fixing the blade angle on side to the other is an easier fix than file or grind to fix the frame.

I use the wooden strap cutters some too. I had a couple of the old "Original" strap cutters and not a problem. A few years there was sale on them (proved to be knock-offs) and I figured I would get a few and just leave them set at some common widths for strings and lacing. A couple were alright but others had the blade slot cut that you could see by eyeballing it was off. I use razor blades in those and there was no fixing the blade angle there. For the $12 or whatever they cost, it wasn't worth my time to try sanding of fixing the handle/bar alignment.

[UKRay]

I started out with a Dixon plough gauge about 40 years ago and haven't found the need to change so far although I do have an old Merkle strap cutting machine that I use for very narrow 1/2" straps and 1/4" laces as it makes a cleaner and more regular job. In fact, I find the old Merkle machine makes a pretty good job of all widths, but it is a lot of work stripping and reassembling the thing when I want to change strap sizes so tend to leave it set to cut as described.

I did try a razor blade type cutter a while back but didn't get along with it - although plenty of folk say they are great. It was almost too sharp (if that is possible LOL) and tended to take its own path instead of the one I chose for it.

Do try a plough gauge before you invest in a machine. Used and in good condition, they are a fraction of the price of a machine and, IMHO, work very well.

Ray

[alb]

I don't understand why the fence angles out to the left at such an angle on the plough gauge. ARe you looking at the fence where the leather first contacts it or out where it's away from the leather? Hope that's understandable.... I should say that it's when cutting 13/15 that I seem to have to work hard at cutting. I probably need to strop the blade....

I had the same trouble when I first started using a draw gauge. An old man showed me how he did it ("and old men are generally wise"). The tendency is to want to look at the blade since that is where the cutting action is. He told me to just look at the fence or guide as you work. Keep the edge lined up on that and the blade will take care of itself. When I went to plough gauges I mucked up the first strap, by watching the blade. Once I looked at the fence, no more problems.

HOWEVER, one thing to be aware of. The blade angle needs to be pretty right on alignment wise with the guide in a draw gauge or a plough gauge. If the angle is off enough the blade might want to track in or out and that can really mess you up and that torque deal gets big in a hurry. The draw gauge blade slots are not 100% precise, and so even taking a blade out and putting it back in can be a slightly different angle from just bit of change of positioning in that slot. Usually a few strokes on a fine stone and stropping on the offending side of the blade will make a big difference.

The same thing can happen with plough gauges, although a bit less of problem. There is a longer slot for the blade and they are generally more precision made so the blades tend to go back the same. Once the blade angle is set, then equal stropping on both sides will maintain it.

The other thing that can happen with either one is that the fence and guide may not be exactly at the right 90 degree angle with the beam. The blade may be eqaully sharpened but isn't being presented squarely into the leather. The older draw gauge and plough gauges made with matching numbers on the frame and beam were individally made and matched to be precise. Some are dead on and some are probably off some. The new ones are supposed to be precise and are mass prdocued and not "matched". They can be off just as much or more. Again, fixing the blade angle on side to the other is an easier fix than file or grind to fix the frame.

I use the wooden strap cutters some too. I had a couple of the old "Original" strap cutters and not a problem. A few years there was sale on them (proved to be knock-offs) and I figured I would get a few and just leave them set at some common widths for strings and lacing. A couple were alright but others had the blade slot cut that you could see by eyeballing it was off. I use razor blades in those and there was no fixing the blade angle there. For the $12 or whatever they cost, it wasn't worth my time to try sanding of fixing the handle/bar alignment.

[bruce johnson]

Ann,

I am thinking you have a Dixon and the fence does flare out some in front on most of them. I watch where the leather is in contact with the flatter part of the fence and usually I am keying in about the area over the beam which may be about 1/2" or so in front of where the blade meets the leather.

If they don't feed right into the leather I definitely strop. I usually strop my blades at least every other day in use, and if it has been a couple days, I strop before I start. That keeps me from having to use a stone on them much if at all. If it has been since you got it that it hasn't been stropped, it might need a little really fine stone work again.

[impulse]

I think I'm using my plough gauge incorrectly. It is certainly easier for me than a draw gauge to get a perfectly straight strap, but sometimes it feels like I'm putting a tremendous amount of torque on the gauge in an attempt to keep it straight. What do you focus on when cutting a strap?

I have been using a plough gauge for over 40 years now and there are just a few tips to their use:

1) The roller must be positioned relatively close to the blade, but not jammed against it.

2) The blade needs to be very sharp, with a bevel on the OUTSIDE edge ONLY.

Bruce mentions "The blade angle needs to be pretty right on alignment wise with the guide in a draw gauge or a plough gauge. If the angle is off enough the blade might want to track in or out and that can really mess you up and that torque deal gets big in a hurry......and.... Once the blade angle is set, then equal stropping on both sides will maintain it. The other thing that can happen with either one is that the fence and guide may not be exactly at the right 90 degree angle with the beam. The blade may be eqaully sharpened but isn't being presented squarely into the leather."

Much as I respect Bruce Johnson for the quality and quantity of help that he readily gives, beveling both sides of the blade can cause problems, and it doesn't matter where you look - it's not that complicated!

3) Cut a 1/2" nick with a scalpel blade or sharp knife where you are to start your strap. Ease the leather under the roller and against the guide bar and start pulling through with the aid of pliers. Once you have cut the first 3" or so, hold both sides of your cut and push the plough gauge along your leather. Alternately you can hold the plough still and pull the leather through. Either way it should slide through the thickest of leather easily with a consistently even cut.

If you follow these steps you will soon learn to love this tool.

BTW, with the correct adjustment of the roller (it's function is to hold the leather against the blade without bunching up) I have cut 1mm(2oz) up to 6mm(15oz) with my plough.

Cheers

Lois

PS I hope that I haven't offended you Bruce! You have taught me a lot too!

[bruce johnson]

Lois,

No offense at all. In fact I find that interesting. I had a running email conversation with a guy in Europe a while back, and he wrote he finds beveling on the inside (toward the fence) works better for him. The blade will tend to push out if anything and not narrow the strap. . All the plough gauge knives I have run across so far have the bevel on both sides of the blade. I have had some old draw gauges that are only beveled on the inside though. They worked good like that and not as well with a double bevel. I think that the angle the blade sits was the difference there.

This reminds me of a skiver blade I had a few years ago. I had an American crank skiver and an American 3-in-1. I used them both about equally at the time. I confess to being a little slow on the uptake. Every so often I would take them off and give them a stropping or touch on the stone. They both worked well. I'd probably had both off 3 or 4 times, but never at the same time. It wasn't until I had both blades off at the same time I noticed something. The blade on the 3-in-1 was a flat single bevel like a splitter blade.. The crank skiver was double beveled like every other crank skiver blade I have had since. I could never tell a nickle's worth of difference using them though.