Oblong Punch not punching all the way thru

[frank207]

I recently purchased some bull hide for making belts and on a few of the straps I was only able to punch thru about halfway. I have a heavy rawhide mallet and the punch is relatively new and I don't think it's dull. I then wet the area and the punch went thru fine. Because I had to wet the area where I wanted to punch, that area now has a water spot. My Question is: Is there anothe way of doing this without using water to sofen the leather? If not, do I just have to wet the entire belt even if I don't plan on tooling?

Thanks in advance

Frank

[Double U Leather]

Frank,

I had the same issue a couple weeks ago with the same scenario. Rawhide mallet, new punch, dry leather. Once I wet it, it went right through. Of course, I tooled my belt, so the wetting wasn't a real problem. Except that I'd, finished the tooling, had it dried over night, and was ready to begin the finishing process. I had to re-wet the entire thing to avoid the water spot dilema. The lesson I learned was to punch it after I'd wet it, before I tooled anything. I guess with your situation, you'll probably have to wet the whole thing, punch, and then let dry completely. Hope this helps.

[electrathon]

I taper the wet area out and never have any trouble. Wetting the whole piece is not a bad choice if you are having stain lines though.

I recently purchased some bull hide for making belts and on a few of the straps I was only able to punch thru about halfway. I have a heavy rawhide mallet and the punch is relatively new and I don't think it's dull. I then wet the area and the punch went thru fine. Because I had to wet the area where I wanted to punch, that area now has a water spot. My Question is: Is there anothe way of doing this without using water to sofen the leather? If not, do I just have to wet the entire belt even if I don't plan on tooling?

Thanks in advance

Frank

[frank207]

I taper the wet area out and never have any trouble. Wetting the whole piece is not a bad choice if you are having stain lines though.

Hi,

What do you mean by "taper the wet out"?

Thanks

Frank

[UKRay]

Frank,

you might want to try polishing the cutting edge of your punch as this will reduce friction and help your punch cut more cleanly. A quick whirl on a buffing wheel ought to make things work more smoothly. I don't mean the punch needs grinding - just polishing to remove any scratches and burrs. If you don't have a buffer then try stropping the punch with a little polishing compound.

Think how much better a freshly stropped blade cuts through leather...

Ray

[tonyc1]

What are you using as a base under the leather to punch into? You need a good solid base. I use a two and a half inch by nine inch piece of lead and I can usually punch through in 1 hit.

Tony

[frank207]

Thanks guys' for the advice. Tonyc1: I use a pondo board over a 2 1/2 " piece of Marble?

Frank

[iwannabeacowboy]

To make it easier to punch and remove punch, I've learned to keep a chunk of beeswax handy and push my punch into beeswax before punching through leather.

Charlie

Almost forgot, I use my poly cutting board to do my punching on. When I used the pondo board I had problems.

Edited October 26, 2009 by iwannabeacowboy

[electrathon]

The area that you wet will be wet, almost through the leather. As you move away from the area you are wetting, simply get the leather less wet.

Hi,

What do you mean by "taper the wet out"?

Thanks

Frank

[UKRay]

What are you using as a base under the leather to punch into? You need a good solid base. I use a two and a half inch by nine inch piece of lead and I can usually punch through in 1 hit.

Tony

Tony and I agree on this one. I made up a new lead block this year and used up a load of dirty old lead pipe that has been getting in the way for ages. I didn't really think too much about it whilst I was melting the stuff into an old 10" round x 3" deep saucepan but when I came to move the thing it was all I could do to carry it indoors. It now sits on my bench on top of a poundo board (about the best thing you can do with a poundo board IMHO) which soaks up a bit of the noise and never moves an inch. My advice is to make yourself the thickest heaviest lead block you can and you won't regret it. When it gets all battered and full of holes just drop the thing back in the pan and boil it up again - it will come out like new. Your tools will thank you for it!

The beeswax is a really good idea too. I sometimes use a wipe of beeswax on my awl blade to make it slide in better.

I'm not sure I would want to soak the leather before punching it because, with the best will in the world, you are going to tug the thing free at the end and risk stretching the leather.

Ray

[kevinhopkins]

The guys are right about the surface that you're pounding on. Whatever you use, it needs to really be solid in order to use those larger cutting tools. I would prefer a maul rather than a mallet to cut slots with, but a mallet can work ok if your tool is sharp. We periodically touch ours to a buffing wheel with rouge on it, and boy, does that make a difference!

kevin

[UKRay]

The guys are right about the surface that you're pounding on. Whatever you use, it needs to really be solid in order to use those larger cutting tools. I would prefer a maul rather than a mallet to cut slots with, but a mallet can work ok if your tool is sharp. We periodically touch ours to a buffing wheel with rouge on it, and boy, does that make a difference!

kevin

I hadn't thought about the maul aspect, Kevin. I would think the heaviest of the Tandy mauls would be perfect - although I am fortunate to have a truly massive Barry King mallet that makes short work of any punching job. You simply need lots of concentrated weight that can apply enough pressure to the punch to cut cleanly. Just mind your fingers when you whomp it!

Ray

[Rawhide]

My two cents is that no punch comes ready to use when new. I've only seen ready to use from the custom makers and those who refurbish. I'm willing to bet it needs to be sharpened and polished (especially if it's an Osborne or Al Stohlman Brand). They come with a bevel, but not near sharp enough for leatherworking.

Marlon