How would you do these belt loops?

[Larry]

I'd like to do a holster like the one below, but not sure how the belt loops are done. I didn't know if it would be just one wide slot or would two narrow slots about an inch apart be better? Thanks everyone. Larry

Edited November 12, 2009 by Larry

[Randyc]

Larry,

For stability purposses, I would go with one wide loop. More then likly, the throat band at the opening of the holster and the belt loop are one piece. Hope this helps.

Randy

[Larry]

This is my pattern, you can see that was my thinking too. But I'm new to this and wanted to get it done the correct way. I sure appreciate the help. It's great to learn from folks that have been doing this for a while and know what they are talking about. Thanks, Larry

[MBOGO]

One of the reasons for the double loops is so that a belt loop on the pants can be placed in the gap, therby not allowing the holster to shimmy front to back. Find out what works for you.

[Larry]

Well, I finished my second holster. I still have a long way to go, especially with the stitching in the thick area that required drilling. I had to make it a little thicker than the normal style for this holster as I wanted the mag release to be covered. So the thickness at the frame is as wide as the frame and not the trigger guard as it usually is. It still draws easy, or will soon when it gets broken in. Right now it is real tight. I soaked it and when almost dry I put my pistol in it and vacuum sealed it and hand massaged a while then used a polished deer antler. I used a bamboo skewer stick in the sight channel and it is the perfect width of the front sight. It sets real snug to my side and is very concealable. I like it except for the stitching. My pistol is a 3" Kimber Ultra Carry and I embossed my initials with the 1/4" alphabet set. The embossing didn't turn out so good.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Larry, that's pretty good for your second holster. For this particular style, I can offer a couple of ideas that might improve the design if your carry criteria is in line with mine.

First off, instead of making the tunnel loop come straight down, go ahead and make it wider at the top, almost to the rear edge of the holster but just short of the outside edges stitching. It can taper down to the normal length at the bottom so your other stitch lines won't interfere with the loop itself. The wider loop will make the holster more stable, and the loop's placement will force the pistol's grip to stay closer to your side and "print" less under a lighter cover garment.

Also, I'm assuming you want the mag catch covered because you are trying to prevent accidental activations? This construction method actually results in more accidental mag drops in my experience. I find that the best way to reduce inadvertent mag catch activations is to get as close as possible to the mag catch with out actually touching or covering it. If you are still worried, go ahead and cover the opposite side with leather to help protect from accidental activations (the coverage on the opposite side adds more resistance to the mag release). Using this method, it is also easier to design the holster to allow a full three fingered grip on the pistol. The grip on those little 3" 1911's is already short enough without forcing your shooting hand lower, and having to reacquire a shooting grip during the presentation or firing with a low grip on the front strap is definitely sub-optimal, especially with a compact pistol.

If you need me to further explain what I mean, I will be happy to try. Good luck on your next build.

[Larry]

Thanks, Jeff, for the great information. I do value the advise. I like the idea of blocking the other side of the mag release. It's something I think about since I'm a lefty. I also like the idea of a wider loop. I was thinking about making another holster and stopping the top band just past the sight channel and start the loop there. It would be wider and the belt would be higher on the holster which should help it be more stable. Am I making my self clear. I can see how I would like it to be, but not sure I'm explaining it in writing. Maybe I'll get busy and make another one and send a picture of it. You are right, I would like to get more of my hand on the the pistol if I have to get it out of the holster in a hurry (and probably a panic). Thanks again for the advise. Larry

[MBOGO]

Larry,

For your second holster you are doing great. You will learn with every project, just part of the learning curve.

By the way, those grip panels really set it off, nice rig.

[Larry]

Jeff, I took your advise and it turned out very good, I think. You are right the three fingers on the grip sure make a difference when you draw from the holster. I did the wider belt loop as you suggested. It sets real snug to my side and is very concealable (and comfortable). Thanks again guys, for all the help. Larry

MBOGO, thanks for the kind words of encouragement. The wood is stabilized red cedar. I made the grips for it and the knife I made from an old sway back butcher knife. I stabilized them in resin. I call the .45 Kimber and the knife "Shock and Awe"