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Today I was cutting some string off the good spot of one of my hides. The string was 3/32" and cut from a center piece. I beveled it and realized that it was still a little square, it felt to thick for the width. The thickness was probably around 1 mm. I was just cursing myself for not checking into those splitters I had asked about and wondered if I should just stop where I was until I got a splitter. Then I remembered something I'd read here a long time ago (at least I think I read it here) about beveling all 4 corners of a length of string, so I thought I would give that a try. The string had a really nice feel to it after I'd done that. I used to to make a long 6 bight button with at least a couple of turns, it didn't break or seem to be weak and the button rolled very nice and smooth. Has anyone done this before? Can beveling all 4 sides replace a splitter in my circumstances?

thanks

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I would like to experiment with bevelling myself but haven't made myself a suitable jig for it yet.

But once I cut a string, I stretch it, usually one or twice, then soak it in home made saddle soap running through the hands a few times to spread it out, Let it sit for a day to soak in, then run over it again about twice through the hands then finally one or two times through a cloth to give it a slight buffing, it really helps the back and I find the constant running through the hands kinda rounds out the back nicely enough.

I would like to see pictures of the button finished to see how it turned out though.

One thing I will say, For years I really relied on getting leather the thickness I wanted my string, until a few weeks ago I made my own splitter, and It's so so so much better to use string you have cut to your perfect size.

If the same ideals hold true for bevelling I really should endever to do something about it, I just haven't yet...

Doing the right thing is bleeding for the cause.

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Posted

Today I was cutting some string off the good spot of one of my hides. The string was 3/32" and cut from a center piece. I beveled it and realized that it was still a little square, it felt to thick for the width. The thickness was probably around 1 mm. I was just cursing myself for not checking into those splitters I had asked about and wondered if I should just stop where I was until I got a splitter. Then I remembered something I'd read here a long time ago (at least I think I read it here) about beveling all 4 corners of a length of string, so I thought I would give that a try. The string had a really nice feel to it after I'd done that. I used to to make a long 6 bight button with at least a couple of turns, it didn't break or seem to be weak and the button rolled very nice and smooth. Has anyone done this before? Can beveling all 4 sides replace a splitter in my circumstances?

thanks

Somewhere, I mentioned about the handheld splitter I use for my string. I have found I can't do without it. It is made by Dene Williams, the son of the man that invented the original 'Aussie Strander.' He makes a nice strander too. I have it, but I've not been able to become proficient at it. I've heard some really nice reviews of it though. I paid less for both of them, including the shipping from Australia than some are selling them for here in the USA.

I've also used this same splitter on 7/8 straps up to 1-1/2" wide. I just shave a little bit at a time until I've got it down to where I want. With string, you could almost make paper. The blades are the everyday Stanley Utility blades.

As far as beveling goes, I do the flesh sides only. (no particular reason) I can't justify the cost of a 'machine' so I just use a knife or box cutter (w/single edged razor blade). Beveling all 4 edges may suffice for splitting but it would depend on the leather, the thickness and the angles of the bevels - I would think. I've done a very shallow bevel on the flesh edges, which I guess you could call splitting - after a fashion. Soaping the strings really well, throughout the process, will let them slip into place very easily. Glenn Dunholm, a master whip maker in Australia, once said he uses soap exclusively on his whips.

Spence

Mendoza, TX, USA

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Posted

Oh thank you very much for your thoughts.

8thsinner, I'm assuming you are doing rawhide? I've never heard of soaking roo. That doesn't mean it's not done though. I think it's quite interesting that you have went without beveling and I've went without splitter. I would have thought one could live without the splitter but not the ability to bevel..LOL

Yes Spence you did reply to my thread about splitters, thanks again! I haven't had a chance to at the suggested splitters. I do soap up all my strings very well and that helps a whole lot, as you said. The largest string I cut is 1/8" and the largest thickness is 1mm. I wish I had a friend close by with a splitter so I could compare the two ways. I bet a splitter would be more precise.

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Posted

Indeed, and no not rawhide, mainly cow, pig and goat every now and again. I doubt too that I would need to soak roo, but if it stretches, I would soak it and prestretch to get as tight a lace as possible.

The smallest lace I have done, would be 1mm waxed nubuck about .5mm thick, and yes it was still strong enough for a mini whip at the time.

Heres a bracelet that was done withabout 2.5mm lace, treated my way. You can see it turns out very smooth.

Sorry about the pic, it was a camera phone image to begin with...

Braided-6-strand-bracelet-web-version.jpg

post-7332-1258603291_thumb.jpg

Doing the right thing is bleeding for the cause.

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Posted (edited)

Oh WOW..that is lovely and smoooooth. I had no idea. And it looks just as lovely as roo! Oh what a nice patina. I love hearing about how others do things.I'll post a picture when I'm done with the lead. In the meantime I'll post one of my other pieces.

New picture, that first file was way to large.:head_hurts_kr:greenwhiskeybracesm.jpg

post-6663-125860638531_thumb.jpg

Edited by entiendo
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Posted

Now I bet that took a few hours. It looks great. And the pattern is a good one.

Is that roo?

Now you know one of the things I noticed when drying some more of my red stuff last night, Mainly I stretch dry over a bottle or something, and given that the flesh side is always weaker, it compresses more, that compression, when dried leaves a few hairs out the sides of itself.

SO, after it's dried like that and I run it through the splitter all the wider bits will be chopped off essentially sort of skiving it naturally. When it's braided tightly nothing flesh side will be left to spill out.

Thats at least the way I figure it.

Do you mind if I critique that piece of yours?

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Of course..critique away, anyone, I'm always up for suggestion on how I might make a nicer piece. Yes, it's roo.

Roo is all I braid with. It's strong, beautiful and very easy to work with. I don't know how to do a lot of the prep work you described. I'd like to try rawhide but so far I haven't. I really admire the rawhide pieces, even more than that I admire those who start out braiding with rawhide. I tried goat once but didn't like it at all. It kept stretching and stretching and it was very hard on my blades.

Sometimes I'll have a hide where the rough out side is a little rough, I usually bevel it off if it is real bad or leave it if it's not. But for the most part I cut, stretch, cut again, bevel and braid.

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Posted (edited)

The long pineapple by the looks of it when your pulling through seems to be stretching the roo. I say that because it seems ovular by comparison to the parallels of the lace, if you know what i mean. Close to the under pass it's not as wide...

If it is stretching I suggest stretching it through your hands or soaking and stretching over a bottle overnight or tie a tight turkshead, about 5 or 7 parts over a dowel then work the lace back and forth through under the whole thing or just increase the sequence of the pineapple, it might help to straigten out the appearance. How do you actually stretch yours normally?

The sofa stuff is lovely but Theres a lot of prep to Get there. Cut to 5mm, stretched over night, shrinks to about 2mm, split to about .8 or so, then stretched again, worked well through the hands with saddle soap homemade then finally put to use. But it's very strong at those sizes.

Never worked goat before, pig at 1.5mm glazed is very nice easy to lace from small circles, often doesn't need worked on the back and doesn't need a lot of stretching... And it's cheap.

As for roo, I know how nice it is to work with. Love the stuff, I have done one whip with it but its a bitch to get in the UK. I need to Get some sort of import licence i think...can't Get reliable info.

By the look of your work. And mine, i think we could do awesome work instead of very good work with a few more opportunities and tools. And or money and time...

Edited by 8thsinner

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Posted

The long pineapple by the looks of it when your pulling through seems to be stretching the roo. I say that because it seems ovular by comparison to the parallels of them.

If it is stetching, I suggest stretching it through your hands or soaking and stretching over a bottle overnight or tie a tight turkshead, about 5 or 7 parts over a dowel then work the lace back and forth throuh under the whole thing or just increase the sequence of the pineapple, it might help to straigten out the lines. How do you actually stretch yours?

As for roo, I know how nice it is to work with. Love the stuff, I have done one whip with it but its a bitch to get in the UK.

Doing the right thing is bleeding for the cause.

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