australian saddles

[Rockinghorserun]

I have a Sid Hill Australian saddle that needs to be awled. The padding is so hard it feels like rock and the awl only penetrates 1/4". I do not want to tear the serging by forcing the awl. I can not figure out where the "access panels" are to fill or remove the stuffing. I have read that there is different stitching on most saddles that you cut and add/remove stuffing but do not see these on this saddle. I have been looking for a video on it for more detail. If anyone knows of a link I can access to watch the awl process I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

[barra]

G'day Rockinghorserun. This is a fairly simple job and yet complex at the same time. If the stuffing/flocking is not added correctly you will form lumps and bumps or form a pressure point (or both). What is supposed to happen with a stock saddle panel is after the panel has packed down hard and conformed to the shape of the horses back, a completely new lining and fresh stuffing is added over the old, This is called counterlining. When a stock saddle is new, the fresh stuffing is clean and fluffy and can be Awled into position for fine tuning the shape. This is done with a seat awl which is like what gets called a scratch awl in some circles. (see link 1)

When new there are a couple of ways to add flock. 1 is thru a slit in the base panel. This is the top layer of the panel that is against the tree (the lining is against the horse) This slit is stitched closed when done. Or a gap is made in the lining along the sweat flap (second flap against the horse) Again the flock is added and then the gap is closed. (go to last link for a diagram)

http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Saddlers_Tooling/Seat_Awel_haft.html

The seat awl is jabbed thru the serge lining and the stuffing can be moved about. A passable seat awl can be made from an old screw driver by grinding the tip to a point and then polishing it smooth. The serge is a coarse weaved fabric so jabbing the awl thru does no harm.

The second link is of stuffing/flock being added to an English saddle. also I have added a link to a Berney Bros saddlery clip on youtube There are 2 clips on youtube this is just one of them. About 2.43 into the clip you can see flock being added. Again this is an English saddle but the principal is similar.

http://www.horobin.com.au/services/repair.jpg

The last link is a pic from Ron Edward booklet called counterlining stock saddles. See on the pic 2 angled lines at the front and 2 at the back, both with dots along side. What this is representing is folds in the new counterlinging to allow for fullness. The dots are pins jabbed into the old flock to temp hold it in place. Half way along the flap you might notice a dark shaded gap. This is where the new flock is added. The gap is stitched closed when the job is done.

http://www.shoemakingbook.com/Images/otherbooks/10-counterling.jpg

The new serge fabric is cut to the shape of the panel and blind/invisible stitched by hand to the old serge. If you can't find serge then kersey wool will do. This fabric is commonly used to make civil war reenactors uniforms.

I think unicornwoman (LW member) sells the Ron Edwards books

http://www.unicornwoman.com/cat/uw_catbooks.htm

Barra

[barra]

The chances of successfully awling the flocking now are remote. Reason being is as you have found the flock has packed down hard. Add to this horse sweat and the flock fibres will have all matted together (like how felt for hats is made). Awling it now and all you will be doing is shifting clumps of matted flock around.

The panel is now rock hard, not unlike the bars of a western saddle. By adding a new "counterlining" with a new thin layer of fresh flock between the old and new lining and you will have a similar effect to a hard western saddle bar with a nice fresh fluffy shearling stitched to the skirt.

I just found an old thread which has some good pics provided by David Morris.

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2010&st=0

Barra