Adjusting a pattern for lining?

[Bronson]

Anybody willing to share any tips on how to adjust an existing pattern to accomodate adding a lining? Do you just move the the stitch lines the thickness of the lining leather, or are there some other tricks?

I've already scrapped one holster and would prefer not to scrap another one

Thanks,

Bronson

Edited December 25, 2009 by Bronson

[Lobo]

I think this will depend quite a bit on what you are using for lining, as well as the holster construction style.

Pancake-style construction (two-panels) permits forming the holster with lining in place by the usual wet-molding process, stretching the holster to accomodate the handgun. This allows the lining to stretch with the holster panels.

Envelope-style construction (folded) offers some challenges. Folding the leather around the shape of the handgun can cause the lining leather to bunch up on the inside. The heavier the lining leather, the greater this problem can become.

In my normal production I offer both suede and smooth leather linings. I use suede splits in the 2 -2.5oz. range. I use smooth calfskin in the 3-oz. range. Linings are cemented and sewn into the holster prior to assembly and stitching. I like Tanner's Bond for cementing the lining in place; excellent adhesion and a pretty fast "set".

For pancake-style construction I have found no adjustments necessary in the patterns. I do stretch the lining leather somewhat as it is installed, which prevents bunching. Fitting the holster to the handgun can take a little more effort, but wetting the piece thoroughly prior to fitting allows easier stretching during the fitting process.

For envelope-style construction I stretch the lining leather as forcefully as I can, and keep tension on the lining while the cement is setting up thoroughly. This permits the folding to be done with little or no bunching of the lining inside the holster. Again, I don't adjust stitching patterns, simply work a little harder during the forming operation (and use more moisture in the leather) to accomplish the necessary stretching.

For either style I like to allow the cement to set thoroughly before proceeding, leaving the lined panels under heavy weights for several hours (or overnight) to keep the stretched lining material from contracting as the cement sets up.

Heavier lining materials will offer greater challenges. Since my holsters are made of 8-oz veg-tan I haven't felt the need to apply linings heavier than 2 - 3 oz. leather.

Hope this helps you.

[lspiers]

In my normal production I offer both suede and smooth leather linings. I use suede splits in the 2 -2.5oz. range. I use smooth calfskin in the 3-oz. range. Linings are cemented and sewn into the holster prior to assembly and stitching. I like Tanner's Bond for cementing the lining in place; excellent adhesion and a pretty fast "set".

When you use suede for the lining, how does it handle the wet forming? Does the suede stay soft?

thanks!

[Lobo]

When you use suede for the lining, how does it handle the wet forming? Does the suede stay soft?

thanks!

Yes, the suede is not affected by the wet-forming process.

[Bronson]

Thanks Lobo. I wasn't ignoring you, I've been out of town for the holidays

I should have given more information ...yes it was a folded style holster and I'm using 2-3 oz veg tanned leather. I'll have to give the stretching trick a try because I wasn't happy with the bunching I had at the front of the holster.

Thanks again,

Bronson

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Bronson, I never adjust the pattern when I line a holster. I use Masters cement and bond two pieces together that equal the weight of my normal leather. I normally use 8 oz., so I like to use 5 oz. with a 3 oz. lining when I line a holster. I don't use suede; it is more detrimental to a finish than beneficial, and it doesn't add to the strength of the holster like veg tanned leather will.

[Bronson]

All good points Jeff and your input is appreciated.

It seems where I went wrong was to use the same weight leather that I normally use and then add a lining on top of that. As a hobbyist I'm looking to stock as little leather as possible, usually just one single or maybe one double shoulder at a time.

Thanks again,

Bronson

[lspiers]

Bronson, I never adjust the pattern when I line a holster. I use Masters cement and bond two pieces together that equal the weight of my normal leather. I normally use 8 oz., so I like to use 5 oz. with a 3 oz. lining when I line a holster. I don't use suede; it is more detrimental to a finish than beneficial, and it doesn't add to the strength of the holster like veg tanned leather will.

I've had someone request a lined holster - which I've never done before. I was thinking suede, but it sounds like you don't like it. As I read this, you are saying to take two pieces of thinner, veg tanned leather (3oz and 5oz for example) and glue them rough to rough, then proceed as normal. I'm I catching this right?

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I've had someone request a lined holster - which I've never done before. I was thinking suede, but it sounds like you don't like it. As I read this, you are saying to take two pieces of thinner, veg tanned leather (3oz and 5oz for example) and glue them rough to rough, then proceed as normal. I'm I catching this right?

That is what I would recommend. You proceed as normal with the exception that once the two pieces are glued together, you will sand, finish and sew any edges that would normally be a single thickness before you carry on with the normal construction process. This is so the edges will resist separating or rolling under normal usage.

The reasons I don't like Suede for lining modern holsters:

Most of it is chrome tanned and will hurt the firearms finish or even cause corrosion.

It eventually traps dirt, sand, and other grime which scratches and mars the firearms finish.

It doesn't add any strength to the holster for the space it takes up, whereas regular veg tanned leather will.