Members particle Posted January 12, 2010 Members Report Posted January 12, 2010 Good evening everyone - I just finished my first Avenger style holster. Actually, there were several firsts with this holster for me. Obviously, I'd never done an Avenger style before, but I also am using my first piece of Herman Oak tooling side (much different than the Tandy hides...). I also completely hand stitched this one using an awl instead of a drill press. Overall, I am very pleased with this holster. I had to tweak the cut lines a bit after I'd already formed up the holster - the sweat shield was too tall, and wrapped around towards the front too much, so I cut some away (thus the vanishing groove line on the back side). I also trimmed some length from the barrel end. Lastly, I didn't get my stitch groove lined up on the back side, so my stitches are way outside of the groove. In comparison to my previous holster attempts, I lowered the top edge considerably to make sure CT Laser Grips would work without further modifications to the pattern, and I also left more room between the top of the holster and the front strap on the pistol - thanks dickf! I tried to mimic the stitching line around the belt slot that Tucker uses - I LOVE his holsters. But, I think on future attempts, I'll just sew closer to the barrel shroud unless someone can tell me a good reason why he does this. I probably should have punched holes at the ends of the cut at the back for the belt slot. Oh yeah - I should have kept it away from the kitchen sink... a couple drops of water spalshed on it by the trigger guard. Anyway, let me know what you think, and please let me know if you see room for improvement in my technique and/or pattern. Quote
Lobo Posted January 12, 2010 Report Posted January 12, 2010 Very nice work. Exceptionally nice boning work. I like the pre-formed belt slot and tunnel loop. Stitching looks great. Personally, I don't use the stitching groover on the back side. It is practically impossible to be 100% on that anyway. You should be proud of that one! Quote
Members particle Posted January 12, 2010 Author Members Report Posted January 12, 2010 Thanks Lobo for the compliments. Do you find that the stitching looks as good as the front if you don't groove the back side first? Quote
Lobo Posted January 12, 2010 Report Posted January 12, 2010 Thanks Lobo for the compliments. Do you find that the stitching looks as good as the front if you don't groove the back side first? With hand-stitching you should easily get enough thread tension to make it difficult to see any difference. Quote
Members dickf Posted January 13, 2010 Members Report Posted January 13, 2010 I think it looks damn good. What color, brand, and method of dye are you using? What weight is your HO? Where the hell is the CBOB? I look forward to seeing your work and I never tire of seeing your DW! Quote
Members particle Posted January 13, 2010 Author Members Report Posted January 13, 2010 Thanks dickf! The color is Fiebing's Pro Saddle Tan. The method is to put the holster in a zip-top baggie, pour in the dye and slosh it around until all surfaces have dye on them (I don't buy my dye in large quantities yet, but will need to now as I'm out of Saddle Tan). Once covered, I pull the holster out and hit the puddles with a dauber to remove the excess. Then I cut a corner off the baggie and drain the excess back into the dye bottle. I let the holster air dry overnight in front of a small fan. It's amazing how well the Pro dye evens out on its own. The Herman Oak is 8/9 oz. I'm not sure about the section of hide I cut this holster from - some areas were very hard to cut, and others cut like butter. Also, some areas got very stiff (like I'm used to), and others seemed to barely stiffen at all. For example, the belt slot area is soft, but the reinforced area over the slide is very stiff. The belt loop is very stiff, but the sweat guard is a limp noodle. Not really concerned about it since this was my first attempt with a new pattern and I figured I'd screw it up some how. I'll choose a better portion of the hide with my next attempt. When I took the pics, the Resolene wasn't fully cured. I'll try to take some pics tonight and update the thread. Quote
Members usmc0341 Posted January 13, 2010 Members Report Posted January 13, 2010 Very nice looking holster. I would like to see it on the belt with the DW in it. Quote
Members steelhawk Posted January 13, 2010 Members Report Posted January 13, 2010 Very nice. Is there any tricks to stitching the belt loop mouth reinforcement piece? Quote
Members particle Posted January 14, 2010 Author Members Report Posted January 14, 2010 Steelhawk - only real trick is to sew on the reinforcement piece first, before you bend and sew the holster closed. Here are some pics with the gun in it. Don't have any with me wearing it. And here is a few of the gun... Here is the other side. This is actuallly my first CBOB - I sent it back for warranty repairs because the grip safety was inoperative. Turns out the frame was out of spec, so they gave me a brand new one (thus my actual serial number is now different than what is shown on the following pistol). Quote
Members badasp118 Posted January 14, 2010 Members Report Posted January 14, 2010 Well Ill tell you what if you dont like it send it my way! Id be darn proud to wear a beautiful holster like that on duty! I LIKE IT! They will only get better!!! Im gonna go hide mine now, it looks like a turd compared to that one. The boning looks great!!! Badasp118 Quote
Members 303brit Posted January 14, 2010 Members Report Posted January 14, 2010 Great job, very nice work. Quote
Members luke213 Posted January 14, 2010 Members Report Posted January 14, 2010 (edited) A trick I've found that's worked for me to get the groove on the back side is to punch the holes then take a freehand stitch groover and do the back side. It's much tougher since you will bind a little on each hole and you have to be careful but it does work. Otherwise nice work, and great job boning:) Luke<br> Edited January 14, 2010 by luke213 Quote
Members dickf Posted January 15, 2010 Members Report Posted January 15, 2010 I don't think it's necessary to groove the backside at all. The holster looks great and the color is superb. Was your thread originally white and got colored from the wet mold? I need to find a way to avoid that. Quote
Members particle Posted January 15, 2010 Author Members Report Posted January 15, 2010 The thread was actually the same spool that came with my Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl - it held its color very well after dying with the Pro dye. I just bought a larger spool of it because I really like the thickness and the color. Quote
Members KY23 Posted April 6, 2010 Members Report Posted April 6, 2010 The thread was actually the same spool that came with my Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl - it held its color very well after dying with the Pro dye. I just bought a larger spool of it because I really like the thickness and the color. Did you use the Speedy Stitcher to sew this holster? I've been thinking about getting one and would like to hear your opinion before I drop the whole $13 for it. Quote
Members particle Posted April 6, 2010 Author Members Report Posted April 6, 2010 Did you use the Speedy Stitcher to sew this holster? I've been thinking about getting one and would like to hear your opinion before I drop the whole $13 for it. Actually, no - I bought the speedy stitcher, but only used the thread out of it and have never actually used the tool itself. Once I watched a video of it on the internet to learn how to use it, I figured I'd rather just hand stitch it with an awl and a couple needles. Quote
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