Fiebrings Saddle Tan Oil Woes

[JoelR]

Finally got a chance to make a holster for myself for a newer firearm that was lacking. In the past I have dyed the leather before stitching and molding with USMC black. This has caused problems with the molding as the dye acts as a water barrier so the surface of the leather will not saturate and I get some major wrinkles. I decided to make this next holster Saddle Tan and did a quick test to ensure I could dye before assembly and all looked good so I continued on. Before forming, I wet a small are for my makers mark and that's where the problem started. The leather in the wet area stayed dark even after drying. I've tried wetting the entire project hoping that would even things out, but it did not. The are that was prevously wet now is slightly resistent to water. I've since molded the holster and deglazed (tried both alcohol and acetone) and re-dyed. I eventually got an even color, but MUCH darker then I wanted. The water I used was straight from the tap and we have a softener so I'm wondering if the salts in the water somehow reacted with the oil-based dye. Anyone have any insights. Just glad I found this now and not when I go to apply the same dye to a customers holster.

[JoelR]

As a follow-up: I took a cotton buffing wheel to the holster and am OK with the results. Turned from a dull muddy brown to a nice mellow brown with some good character highlights. Although some sections are darker than others but I can live with it for a personal holster.

[JoelR]

A quick pic for reference. Still needs a sealant and I am trying to incorporate a hold-open strap to the back end: the reason the rear sight area looks unfinished and all the extra leather above the cylinder.

Edited February 2, 2010 by JoelR