Basic Tools For Sheath Maker

[kk1992]

hello, i am new to this forum and new to leatherworking. i am an apprentice blacksmith focusing mainly on blades. ii would like to start making my own sheaths in order to add more character and worth to my knives/ swords/ axes. what are the basic tools i need for sheaths? i am currently searching ebay and not to worried about slightly damaged tools as i can fix alot of metal problems. im focusing hping to spend about 60$ on my starter tools so ill have 40 or so left for leather.

[NoahL]

You'll probably get several lists in response to this, but here are some of the basics:

Stitching groover

Stitch marker of some kind (overstitch wheel, or a fork works as well)

Awl with a diamond shaped blade

Harness needles (heavy duty sewing needles with blunted tips)

Waxed linen or nylon thread

Dye (can be water based or spirit based)

Finish (up to you, really, but I use Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax as well as Sno-Seal)

Good luck!

~Noah

[kk1992]

im watching this item on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/34pcs-Of-Vintage-Leather-Working-Tools-In-Stan-NR_W0QQitemZ320482451312QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4a9e3e1f70... does this seem like a good starter kit?

[TwinOaks]

Welcome to Leatherworker.net!

It's not a bad 'starter set', but for the current price (which very well may go up) + shipping, you're already over your estimated $60 for tools. Plus, it doesn't have some of the essential things you'll need for sheath making. If you just want that set of tools, then by all means go ahead and get it, but for a bare knuckle starter set for you , you can do better.

Noah gave you a pretty good list, to which I would add an edger- this tool helps shape the edges to provide a better appearance. Most of the simple modeling tools you could easily make considering your apprenticeship. Same applies to the stamps, providing you have (or have access to) metal working tools like files, sanders, grinders, etc. (Yeah, I know, blacksmiths generally have these) Making your own tools has some advantages in that you can customize them to what YOU need. Several of the stamps in the ebay item would be redundant. For most leatherworkers, we have a boat load of stamps that we bought for one thing, then haven't used the particular stamp for a long time. Then we have the everyday 'go to' tools, that get used all the time. My personal view of things is that you should know how to fully use a few tools well than to have 500 tools that you know little about.

Things IMO, that you'll need to BUY (at least the first time) are a good awl, the stitch groover, a low end swivel knife to learn with(hey, you can modify/redesign it as you need to, and I think it was Al Stohlman who used a sharpened screwdriver at times), the edger, and some sewing materials. Or if you're pretty advanced with metal work, just look at the tools being used/offered and make your own. I quit buying the "harness needles" a while back because they have a large eye which is easier to break. I now buy a multi-pack of needles from Walmart, and get my waxed linen there or Hobby Lobby. The needles are sharp point, but that's easy to fix .

As was mentioned, if nothing else is handy, a fork makes a dandy stitch marker. You'll also want a set of wing dividers (or a kid's compass from the back to school section of you're local box-mart). You can use either to mark stitches, scribe your stitch line a consistent distance from the edge, etc. The easiest way is to measure you total stitch line length, then divide by the number of stitches per inch you want ( 4spi, 5spi, 6spi, etc.) This may actually work out better than a stitch wheel because some stitch lengths (on a wheel) may leave you with an odd stitch out, looking uneven.

For finishes, you can use mundane things around the house like olive oil, vinegaroon (if you want black) do a search for it here and you'll get more info than I can retype in a day, common shoe polish, and Mop & Glo. For dyes you can use anything- coffee, tea, sunlight.... Or you can call your local leather supplier or visit one of the advertiser links at the top of the page to order them.

You can get by without the groover by using the dull edge of a table knife and just pressing in a groove instead of removing leather to make one. The other resources you'll need are Leather, of course, and Leatherworker.net. Suggested first reading: Topics on handstitching, the "finishing edges" tutorial by Bob Park, and most of the 'pinned' topics in the holsters, sheaths, etc. subforum. You'll also get some good info in "finishes" subforum. . . . . . Basically, there's a ton of info here that covers most questions you can think of. However, while we might point you to a thread for further reading and explanation, we will usually be happy to take the time to just answer the questions directly. Enjoy your new addiction hobby, and ask any questions you might have. Here's a pic of some stamps I made from SS bolts (Lowe's) using a dremel and some polishing compounds. Also, if I've used any tool names that you aren't familiar with, you can check out the advertisers and see them there.

[kk1992]

will an ice pick work as a stitching awl? and i thought the 4 pronged fork was for smacking with a hammer in order to punch holes?

[NoahL]

will an ice pick work as a stitching awl? and i thought the 4 pronged fork was for smacking with a hammer in order to punch holes?

You could use an ice pick, but it won't make holes the way you want. Alternately, if you have a drill press you can chuck a tiny drill bit (the size of your thread) in it and use that to make the holes, if you don't want to shell out for an awl. The 4 pronged fork makes holes that are too big for stitching with thread--they are means for lacing with leather lace, although I have seen them hit lightly with a hammer to mark where to make holes with the awl, but I prefer an overstitch wheel for that. And thanks for adding the edger, TwinOaks--I use mine all the time but still forgot to put it in the list

~Noah

Edited February 7, 2010 by NoahL

[TwinOaks]

Icepick.....no, but I like the way you're thinking. One of the old hands on here once mentioned using spokes (bicycle) to make awls, but I haven't tried that one. The reason we use a particular awl is the shape of the hole it makes. Our common awl has a diamond shaped cross section to it, and while the point should be sharp enough to get mostly through your finger before really feeling it (yes, I'm serious, and yes I've done it) the edges of the awl should not be 'sharpened' to any kind of cutting edge. Think of the edges as more of a distal taper. The diamond cross section makes a very nice hole that closes up rather neatly. Also, with the correct consistant orientation, the holes help lay your stitches at a particular angle which is very attractive. (Read more about hand stitching and making every stitch the same way, every time.)

If you were asking about smacking a regular fork, not a 4 prong lacing chisel.......no. You can use a table fork to make light indentations in the leather to mark the locations of holes to made with the awl. For general use, pick up an Osborne from Tandy. It isn't the best, but it will do what you need for a good while. If you want the best, go ahead and order one from Bob Douglas.

Edited February 7, 2010 by TwinOaks

[kk1992]

i won that ebay find, and i got it for cheaper (the shipping was waved, i have no clue how) so i got the entire kit for 50$ flat. i also got 50 needles for stitching, repair, etc from leatherunltd.com for 3.50, and a 300yrd roll of pre-waxed ,70ibs 5 string braided simulated sinue for 7.50. once everything comes in ill post pics on here.,

[JET4]

will an ice pick work as a stitching awl? and i thought the 4 pronged fork was for smacking with a hammer in order to punch holes?

I think there is alittle confusion between a lacing chisel and a diamond hole punch or "fork" made for punching holes for saddle stitching. This tool punches diamond holes specifically for saddle stitching. I use one of these a lot to punch holes with good success. For consistant spacing, I punch 4 holes, then put the first prong in the last hole I made, so basically I get 3 new holes. This may net be the best way to do it, but it works great for me. I think it's too much trouble to use a dremel, or drill press. I am waaaaay to clumsey to use an awl exclusively, although I do use one ocassionally based on the kind of material I'm sewing. Anyway, hope this helps.

Oh...and when I first started messing with leather I was a super poor college student. My first hole maker was a finishing nail and hammer:lol:

JET

Edited February 12, 2010 by JET4

[TwinOaks]

My only issue with using the chisels is that if you ever punch a 4 prong hole through front, back, and a welt of 8oz leather......you'll need to hammer the leather off of it!! They are good for spacing, though, and on thin leather a pretty quick alternative to an awl.

[JET4]

I solve that problem by punching holes independently in each piece of leather. If you do it right, the holes match up and sewing is a breeze. I may be doing a lot more work than I need to, but it works for me. Man, I need a machine.