JET4

Still have it?

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking I might offer him $750-$800 right before he moves his shop at the end of the month. This isn't a must have for me, just on the "happen upon it at the right price" item.

Hi all, I found a local shop that is selling an used Artian 618-1SC. The listing says that it is about 5 years old and is newly refurbished, whatever that means. I have a few questions 1. What is a fair offer for this machine? He told me that it was $1800 new and he would sell it for $950. 2. I am wanting a second machine for lighter stuff (wallets, etc) that will complimnent my Class 4. Will this machine fit the bill? Thanks in Advance JET

About the only leather I use is heavy weight latigo. I have a local laser engraver that I work with who has been a great asset to my business. The laser engraving turns out great. I would estimate that 95% of my orders are personalized with laser engraving. Here are a few pics. You can check out more on my website.

Hey all, I have a question about sewing a rolled collar similar to pic 1 type stitch on my Cobra 4. This isn't actually on a collar, but on a lanyard that I make (pic 2). Until now I have hand sewn my lanyards, but would really like to use the machine for the whole thing. I'm just having trouble visualizing what plate and feet that I need to sew this close to an edge. I hope I've explained this well enough...it's late. Thanks, JET

I'll be there both days.

I got a manual with my Cobra 4 motor. I'll scan and email it to you if you'd like

Hey all, I finally got my Cobra Class 4 from Steve in about a week and a half ago. I have no previous sewing machine experience so this has been quite the learning experience for me. I've been practicing quite a bit and feel like I'm getting better but still have a long way to go. Anyway, I have a question about how the back side of my stitching should look. To me, it just doesn't look right. Does anyone have a suggestion to make it look better? This is a practice piece I sewed a little while ago. I did change the stitch length once I made it around the end to see what that looked like. That explains that variation. Thanks in advance. JET

Nooooooo. That's a dang shame. I was about to order a backup in case my dremel takes a nose dive off the workbench again and breaks my burnisher. Spinner, your burnisher has taken quite the spot in the workshop and has saved me tons of labor in the last several months. Gotta respect someone who has his priorities straight though. Good luck to you Don't want to hijack your thread, but do I gather there is someone whom you've passed the torch to?

Ok, I've searched all over the web looking for a consistent method to give my customers for measuring for a collar. Most people want to put a tape around the dogs neck and go with that measurement. I see a lot of inconsistency with this method because of where on the neck the tape is placed, fur thickness, etc. I have been instructing my customers to measure their old collars ( if they have one) from where the material wraps around the buckle to the hole that they are currently using. I make this measurement the middle of 5 holes. It seems that if the old collar measures 20 inches using this method that the new collar would fit in the same hole if measured the same way. I have not found this to be the case and usually miss by a hole or 2 (spaced 1 inch apart). Does anyone have a more consistat method for instructing customers so that I get the size correct the first time. The last 2 collars I sent out (same customer) have to come back because they are too long. I have a feeling that the customer measure wrong. He says he measured the way I instructed him to but I feel that he didn't understand my instructions. I'm starting to hate making collars because I worry about getting the size correct. Thanks in advance, John

I did end up making the collar for the guy. He really wanted a swivel on the collar even though there was one on the lead I made him. Not really knowing what to do I started looking for alternatives. Here is a pic of what I came up with. It was less than ideal, but the customer was happy so I guess it worked out.

Hey Dan, I asked the same question a few months ago after a customer requested a tracking collar. Thanks to some help from folks here, I found out that those swivels are made be Sprenger in Germany. I contacted Sprenger directly and was directed to the US distributor. He did not stock them, but was willing to order them for me. The minimum order was a box of 50 at 9-11 dollars a piece. Here is a link to that thread. The distributor info is in the last post on there. My link

I work with heavy latigo all the time. I edge and burnish all the edges with gum tragacanth. You can use either canvas or I most recently have been using a wood burnisher from Spinner on a dremel. If you do it right, you can get a slick, shiny edge. I am also trying some Wyo Quik Slik form Sheridan leather (check out the banner ads.....no website yet). I get the same to better results on latigo with it. Don't even bother with beeswax...it won't penetrate into the leather. No wet forming as it is pretty water resistant I would use a different leather. I'm not sure what the leather might do to a knife blade over time. The color of burgundy tends to run and bleed out if it gets wet....that might stain the wood on a handle. I use veg tan for sheaths.

I have several 12-14 oz latigo bellies if you are interested. I may also have a few10-12 oz WC belt latigo bellied too. If you have a way to split them to your desired weight, I'll make you a good deal. Not sure how much it will be to ship to Canada though. email or PM through the forum or contact me through my site and I'll send some pictures. John

Geoff, I too use the wooden strap cutter. I work primarily with 12-14 oz latigo. I discovered that I can take an old blade and push the current blade you are using up a little bit to expose the edge that was hidden in the wood. Use it this way until it dulls then push it the other way. This essentially triples the life of the blade. Just be very careful because the end sticks out of the top and can pose a hazzard to fingers (don't ask me how I know) I tried sharpening the blades, but had mixed results. I figure the blades aren't too expensive so I don't worry about how many I go through, especially with my little trick above. Good luck, JET

I use a Dremel #300 every day. That coupled with a Dremel drill press stand and burnishers from Spinner (Leatherburnishers.com) and t has become one of the most important tools I use. Here's a picture (man my desk is a mess!)

Wow, thanks for the replies guys and gals. This thread went for awhile without replies and has since exploded! You guys are great. A few more questions. Does someone have a general guide for what edger size to use on what weight leather? I use a #3 a lot on 12-14 oz latigo, but I'm not sure if this is even the right size. I do get a nice rounded edge after burnishing so it can't be too bad. Also, are the sizes fairly consistent across brands. I currently have a few sizes of CS Osbourne edgers, but think I may move up a few steps to the King edgers (thanks to this thread!). How will my Osbourne #3 Bissonnette compare to the King #3? Thanks in advance, John

I have a deposit on one that is in the current batch that Steve just got. I am #42 out of 50 so I may be waiting awhile. Cannot say enough about just my one experience with Steve on the phone. There is NO doubt that I made the right decision on both the model and the person I am buying this from. I'm so excited that I can hardly contain myself. I have no clue how to sew on a machine, but I hope my learning curve isn't too hard.

I'm looking to upgrade a few of my tools but don't really know much about "better" tools out there. I find myself using an Osbourne #3 bissonnette edger the most, but I'm not always happy with the way it cuts or sharpens. Does anyone have a suggestion for a better bissonnette? I looked at the Douglas one, but would like suggestion for others out there. I use this tool enough that I don't mind spending a little money. Thanks, JET

I have been using appropriately sized 4 mil bags I got from Uline. I print out a card that has contact info as well as warranty and guarantee on it. That gets folded and stapled to the top of the bag. It works well and gives a little more professional appearance to my products. Here's a recent pic:

I mainly use 12-14 oz latigo for most of the stuff I make. I get most of my leather from Panhandle Leather. Not sure if they will ship to Europe, but it wouldn't hurt to ask. 12-14 latigo is hard to find. There are not very many suppliers who carry it that thick. Most suppliers I've found stop at 10-12oz. Good Luck

The smell will be lovely! Good luck

awesome! A few tips for you. When the blade gets dull, just loosen the screws on the end and push the blade up a little. If it sticks out the top a little, be very careful! Your fingers will thank you. You can push it the other way when it get dull again. This essentially will triple the life of your blades. I don't know how many blades I've thrown away before discovering this. When cutting straps, especially from thin stuff, put slight inward pressure on the strap cutter , and with your other hand keep some tension on the new strap. It is very easy, especially with a new blade, for the cutter to walk away from the leather and mess up your strap. This is especially magnified with lighter weight leather. If your screw it up enough, you'll have to cut a new straight edge. If mine broke, I would replace it today. It is one of the more useful tool I have for what I do, John

Thanks Wizcrafts, Here is a link to the one that is available locally. Then only benefit I can see with getting this one is that they are close should I need service. With that being said, I have heard nothing but good things about the Cowboy and Cobra machines and their dealers, except from my local guy (of course). Which Cowboy and Cobra models are the 441 clones? What about the Weaver Master Lockstitch...isn't it a 441 clone also? I think they are around $2500 Thanks again for answering my questions