Denster Posted February 11, 2010 Report Posted February 11, 2010 I'm looking forward to the video also. You do realize that since you mentioned you are making a holster for your Kahr that you are obligated to post photos of it:) By the way you mentioned your dull head knife. Do you strop your knife between patterns? I found that with religous stropping between patterns I can go two or three weeks before actually sharpening my knife. Quote
Members particle Posted February 12, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 12, 2010 I'm looking forward to the video also. You do realize that since you mentioned you are making a holster for your Kahr that you are obligated to post photos of it:) By the way you mentioned your dull head knife. Do you strop your knife between patterns? I found that with religous stropping between patterns I can go two or three weeks before actually sharpening my knife. Yep - I'll post pics as soon as it's finished. Just put a coat of neatsfoot on it tonight, and will finish it tomorrow night. Then I guess I'll spend the weekend editing the video together, so the vid should be done in a few days... Regarding the head knife - it's a Weaver knife. It was pretty sharp from the factory (cut myself the very first time I pulled the thing out of the packaging - literally the first time I touched the dang thing. But I think the angle on the grind wasn't steep enough - it never has been able to "glide" through the leather like everyone talks about. It really does take a lot of effort, even with a mirror-like polish on the edge - I strop it every time I pick the thing up. May just be the portion of the hide I'm cutting through right now for the holster pieces. Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Denster Posted February 12, 2010 Report Posted February 12, 2010 That is what I use are two Weaver head knives. Sold my Osbornes after I got them. I think they have just about the perfect blade geometry. I have noticed however that Hermann Oak is more difficult to cut. If I've been cutting patterns from HO and then switch to some of the imported shoulders I use I have to conciously slow myself down as the knife just flys through those. Even hard jacked horse hide cuts easier. On the up side I think this characteristic of HO is also what makes it such a wonderful leather for holsters. I don't have an explanation for this it's just what I've observed. I have noticed that a wipe of beeswax on the sides of my knife blade eases the passage through the HO. Did I mention I'm really looking forward to the video? Quote
Members particle Posted February 12, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 12, 2010 Interesting that you experienced the same thing with the HO leather. Guess I won't rush into re-profiling my edge just yet. Meanwhile, here is some low quality shots from my iPhone of the new holster... Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Denster Posted February 12, 2010 Report Posted February 12, 2010 Really nice. I like the highlighted colors gives it a touch of class. Thanks for sharing. Quote
Members JeffGC Posted February 12, 2010 Members Report Posted February 12, 2010 Your design and craftsmanship are excellent. I think you're doing quite well with the Boss. Are you airbrushing before assembly, sewing and then forming? If not, what is your workflow? Quote
Members particle Posted February 12, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 12, 2010 Your design and craftsmanship are excellent. I think you're doing quite well with the Boss. Are you airbrushing before assembly, sewing and then forming? If not, what is your workflow? Thank you! Yes, airbrush before assembly. Basically.... Cut pieces Smooth edge of reinforcement piece Airbrush dyes Glue reinforcement piece to main piece Mark stitch locations Stitch reinforcement piece together Wet holster Bend in half and let dry Glue mating edges of folded holster Stitch together Sand edges Bevel edges Burnish (with water) edges Dye sanded edges Form holster to gun Warm in oven to aid rigidity Dry overnight Burnish edges again Apply finish ....I probably missed a step or two. Should have a video available by the end of the weekend. It's about an hour long, and I trimmed a bunch of the clips to keep the video length down... Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members JeffGC Posted February 21, 2010 Members Report Posted February 21, 2010 Do you always use white thread? My question is based on your workflow. If you dye and then groove for stitching, you expose the lighter leather in the groove. With white thread, that isn't an issue. If, or when, you use darker thread with a dark dye, do you redye to darken the groove? Quote
Members particle Posted February 21, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 21, 2010 Do you always use white thread? My question is based on your workflow. If you dye and then groove for stitching, you expose the lighter leather in the groove. With white thread, that isn't an issue. If, or when, you use darker thread with a dark dye, do you redye to darken the groove? Hi JeffGC - have you seen the video I posted showing my (general) workflow to build one of these holsters? Go to my website in my signature, then click on "How's it Made?" - it's about 22 minutes long. I haven't been cutting a stitch groove where I will actually be stitching. But, I do cut one where I will NOT be stitching. It's too difficult to line the groove up on the backside of the leather with where the needle will penetrate the leather, and the Boss does a pretty good flushing the thread with the surface of the leather. Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members Leatherbaron Posted February 2, 2012 Members Report Posted February 2, 2012 Those are beautiful! It is hard to get gun in Australia but I would love a whole bunch of em so I could make holsters your holsters are brilliant , i love the brown colour in particular.... keep it up , nice work Terry www.leatherbaron.com Quote
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