Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm looking forward to the video also. You do realize that since you mentioned you are making a holster for your Kahr that you are obligated to post photos of it:) By the way you mentioned your dull head knife. Do you strop your knife between patterns? I found that with religous stropping between patterns I can go two or three weeks before actually sharpening my knife.

  • Replies 21
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Members
Posted

I'm looking forward to the video also. You do realize that since you mentioned you are making a holster for your Kahr that you are obligated to post photos of it:) By the way you mentioned your dull head knife. Do you strop your knife between patterns? I found that with religous stropping between patterns I can go two or three weeks before actually sharpening my knife.

Yep - I'll post pics as soon as it's finished. Just put a coat of neatsfoot on it tonight, and will finish it tomorrow night. Then I guess I'll spend the weekend editing the video together, so the vid should be done in a few days... Regarding the head knife - it's a Weaver knife. It was pretty sharp from the factory (cut myself the very first time I pulled the thing out of the packaging - literally the first time I touched the dang thing. But I think the angle on the grind wasn't steep enough - it never has been able to "glide" through the leather like everyone talks about. It really does take a lot of effort, even with a mirror-like polish on the edge - I strop it every time I pick the thing up. May just be the portion of the hide I'm cutting through right now for the holster pieces.

Posted

That is what I use are two Weaver head knives. Sold my Osbornes after I got them. I think they have just about the perfect blade geometry. I have noticed however that Hermann Oak is more difficult to cut. If I've been cutting patterns from HO and then switch to some of the imported shoulders I use I have to conciously slow myself down as the knife just flys through those. Even hard jacked horse hide cuts easier. On the up side I think this characteristic of HO is also what makes it such a wonderful leather for holsters. I don't have an explanation for this it's just what I've observed. I have noticed that a wipe of beeswax on the sides of my knife blade eases the passage through the HO.

Did I mention I'm really looking forward to the video?

  • Members
Posted

Interesting that you experienced the same thing with the HO leather. Guess I won't rush into re-profiling my edge just yet. Meanwhile, here is some low quality shots from my iPhone of the new holster...

786528162_aL8BY-L.jpg

786528724_qoipA-L.jpg

786528421_nCSth-L.jpg

Posted

Really nice. I like the highlighted colors gives it a touch of class. Thanks for sharing.

  • Members
Posted

Your design and craftsmanship are excellent. I think you're doing quite well with the Boss. Are you airbrushing before assembly, sewing and then forming? If not, what is your workflow?

  • Members
Posted

Your design and craftsmanship are excellent. I think you're doing quite well with the Boss. Are you airbrushing before assembly, sewing and then forming? If not, what is your workflow?

Thank you! Yes, airbrush before assembly. Basically....

Cut pieces

Smooth edge of reinforcement piece

Airbrush dyes

Glue reinforcement piece to main piece

Mark stitch locations

Stitch reinforcement piece together

Wet holster

Bend in half and let dry

Glue mating edges of folded holster

Stitch together

Sand edges

Bevel edges

Burnish (with water) edges

Dye sanded edges

Form holster to gun

Warm in oven to aid rigidity

Dry overnight

Burnish edges again

Apply finish

....I probably missed a step or two. Should have a video available by the end of the weekend. It's about an hour long, and I trimmed a bunch of the clips to keep the video length down...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Members
Posted

Do you always use white thread? My question is based on your workflow. If you dye and then groove for stitching, you expose the lighter leather in the groove. With white thread, that isn't an issue. If, or when, you use darker thread with a dark dye, do you redye to darken the groove?

  • Members
Posted

Do you always use white thread? My question is based on your workflow. If you dye and then groove for stitching, you expose the lighter leather in the groove. With white thread, that isn't an issue. If, or when, you use darker thread with a dark dye, do you redye to darken the groove?

Hi JeffGC - have you seen the video I posted showing my (general) workflow to build one of these holsters? Go to my website in my signature, then click on "How's it Made?" - it's about 22 minutes long. I haven't been cutting a stitch groove where I will actually be stitching. But, I do cut one where I will NOT be stitching. It's too difficult to line the groove up on the backside of the leather with where the needle will penetrate the leather, and the Boss does a pretty good flushing the thread with the surface of the leather.

  • 1 year later...
  • Members
Posted

Those are beautiful!

It is hard to get gun in Australia but I would love a whole bunch of em so I could make holsters

your holsters are brilliant , i love the brown colour in particular....

keep it up , nice work

Terry

www.leatherbaron.com

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...