Members particle Posted February 22, 2010 Members Report Posted February 22, 2010 (edited) Shipped off this little pancake today for a 3" 1911 with Crimson Trace laser grips. My previous 1911 pancake pattern needed a total overhaul as the top cut line did not work with the CT grips. Plus, the sweat guard looked a little odd. I think this one turned out a little better. It's a good starting point for the other sizes since I only need to add more length now. Plus, the design matches the Avenger style I've been working on lately. Got in a bit of a hurry to finish this, as I had to deliver it at noon today and was running short on time - one of my boning tools got away from me and dug in a bit under the trigger guard. Didn't really notice it at the time, but I think the lighting is making it look worse in the photo than in real life. The blue glints you're seeing is from the sunlight coming in through my garage door - I shot this under fluorescent work lights, so the color temp was a little off on the sunlight highlights. My first attempt at the pattern was WAY off. Scrapped it and started over with a fresh sheet of paper, and ended up with this. The next time I build this holster, I'll tweak the stitch line around the trigger guard and slide to bring it in tighter. Probably the same could be said at the top of the slide too. The customer specifically wanted the option to carry C&L, and/or safety off (hammer down, chamber empty). Thus, I formed the recess for the safety to accommodate both. I need to figure out a better way to form the sight channel, while still maintaining adequate retention on the top of the slide. It's pretty difficult with that big reinforcement piece. Guess I might need to explore a stitched sight channel - can't add that much difficultly to the assembly process. 8/9 oz Herman Oak Fiebings Light Brown oil dye - airbrushed Natural thread color Neatsfoot Oil 2 coats of Satin Sheen Light coat of wax On a side note, can anyone tell me any downside to using satin sheen for the final finish coat? The guy at the Tandy store said he doesn't recommend Resolene over black, as it doesn't provide a heavy enough coat. He said since it's just a top coat, it eventually rubs off, whereas Satin Sheen actually soaks in for better protection. Thoughts? Personally, I hate the tacky feel of Resolene. It grips the gun too much and squeaks too much on the belt, IMHO. Edited February 22, 2010 by particle Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
dirtclod Posted February 22, 2010 Report Posted February 22, 2010 Nice job !! I bet the owner is proud of it. Quote I'm old enough to know that i don't know everything.
Members Rhome Posted February 22, 2010 Members Report Posted February 22, 2010 You did a beautiful job !!!! Outstanding ! Best' Rhome DGL Quote www.desbiensgunleather.com
Members NoahL Posted February 22, 2010 Members Report Posted February 22, 2010 Beautiful work! ~Noah Quote Website: Wasteland Leatherwork Collaboration Projects: The Wasteland Crow Project
Members BigRiverLeather Posted February 22, 2010 Members Report Posted February 22, 2010 That is a very nice piece of work. Once you do the tweaks you've listed, it will be top quality. Question: What treatment did you give to the flesh side? I presume you left it natural? Satin Sheen? Quote Big River Leather
Members particle Posted February 22, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 22, 2010 That is a very nice piece of work. Once you do the tweaks you've listed, it will be top quality. Question: What treatment did you give to the flesh side? I presume you left it natural? Satin Sheen? Thanks everyone for the comments! BigRiverLeather - I used gum tragacanth to smooth the interior (was already pretty smooth to begin with), then two good coats of Satin Sheen. Once I recover a bit from all of my purchases lately, I'll have to get a maker's stamp made... Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Members BigRiverLeather Posted February 22, 2010 Members Report Posted February 22, 2010 Thanks everyone for the comments! BigRiverLeather - I used gum tragacanth to smooth the interior (was already pretty smooth to begin with), then two good coats of Satin Sheen. Once I recover a bit from all of my purchases lately, I'll have to get a maker's stamp made... I'll recommend Jeff at http://www.greyghostgraphics.com/. He makes his out of derlon (?) and they are much more economical (I think I paid $75 for mine) than the steel ones I've seen which is nice if you want to get more than one size. You can download his brochure from his website. Very fast delivery too. Quote Big River Leather
Members Luna Slim Posted March 4, 2010 Members Report Posted March 4, 2010 Beeeyouteefull!!! Is the extra layer on the outer side just for looks? Or stiffening? Or?? Just wondering 'cause I'm gettin ready to do a pancake holster for a Kimber 5". Also was thinking of adding a little place for the little bent paper clip thiggy required to break down the pistol. Again, NICE! Quote
Members particle Posted March 4, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 4, 2010 Beeeyouteefull!!! Is the extra layer on the outer side just for looks? Or stiffening? Or?? Just wondering 'cause I'm gettin ready to do a pancake holster for a Kimber 5". Also was thinking of adding a little place for the little bent paper clip thiggy required to break down the pistol. Again, NICE! Hi Luna Slim - thanks for the compliments! Yes, the extra layer on the outside is a stiffener. It's not really needed for OWB, but I kinda like the way it looks having it on there so I usually prefer to add it - just because. That's a neat idea to include the take down tool in the holster. Be sure to show us if you decide to add it!! Quote Eric Adamswww.adamsleatherworks.com | Facebook | YouTube | Instagram
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.