Members BondoBobCustomSaddles Posted February 27, 2010 Members Report Posted February 27, 2010 Newf, you can probably get copper rivets and burrs at most any good hardware, in the amount you need for a couple of bucks. As for a rivet setter, when setting the rivet over the burr, I use a ball peen hammer, peen side to upset the shank of the rivet till it is mushroomed to your satisfaction, then a setter to "finish" it off. Flip it over and "set the head" so it has a nice rounded surface. If you don't have a setter, you can make a couple of different sizes by taking a carridge bolt and grinding the head concave. I did this in the beginning and am still using them today. They worked so well, I just have never upgraded. As for the twist, God forbid I should give you advice that others will frown upon, but; if you don't have enough material to make the twist and wrap, just make them wet on the bottom of the fender, and leathers, put your stirrups on, attach the buckles and twist them by putting a pole through them while on your stand, without the wrap, weight them so they are tristed in riding position, and let them dry. They will take a good set, even without the wrap. Like Andy, I shoot for 2" to 2 1/2" from the bottom of the fender to the fold. Bob Quote
Members Newfman Posted February 28, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 28, 2010 You would have to shorten the end where the buckle is riveted in. Shorten to as little as 10-11" I assume that is to keep the buckle from getting to high on the horse? Otherwise one might just add a few holes and shorten the tail. I have soaked one side and put the twist in it and got the hobble back on while it is drying. It looks like I bought a couple inches. This sure looks like it is a pain in the butt to adjust stirrup lenghts. I know when I am on a rather round horse I need to shorten my stirrups and on a thinner horse I lengthen them. I just don't recall having this much trouble. I will have to go back to my friends place and look at their saddles again. Here are the last two photos this camera will ever take. I guess it is graveyard time for the Ol' Cannon CyberShot. Unfortunately, the newly twisted leather won't get photographed. Time to go to Best Buy. Wife is not happy about the death of her camera. Just when she was about to go to the CanAM Sled Dog race. "What? Your Camera quit working?!?!?" Quote With enough leather and rope, you could probably make your horse cut a deck of cards. . .but you'll never make him deal 'em with a smile on his face!
Members Newfman Posted February 28, 2010 Author Members Report Posted February 28, 2010 (edited) Oh, one more thing. The leather on each side of the buckle is bound with about 3" of stitching as well as having the 3 rivets. So, I need to learn how to do that real quick as well. It was bound to happen someday. Feel free to clarify things if it sounds like I have things confused. The new length from the bottom of the curve of the stirrup leather (where the actual stirrup seats) to the base of the buckle (the end of the leather where the buckle protrudes) is 11" without any modification. So, I should take that apart and shorten it some more, right? Edited February 28, 2010 by Newfman Quote With enough leather and rope, you could probably make your horse cut a deck of cards. . .but you'll never make him deal 'em with a smile on his face!
Members AndyKnight Posted February 28, 2010 Members Report Posted February 28, 2010 When you are finished ... the stirrup hobble strap will not usually go around the stirrup leather after it comes out of the buckle..just around the leathers that go around the stirrup. When adjusting stirrup leather length the bottom end by the stirrup should never be moved. The only time that hobble strap should be removed is to clean or oil. The leathers should be slid around the bars at the top when adjusting stirrupleather length . It pays to keep them well lubricated ! Hope this makes sense. The stitching either side of the buckle can easily done by hand however you can also choose to leave it without stitching and just use the rivets. Oh, one more thing. The leather on each side of the buckle is bound with about 3" of stitching as well as having the 3 rivets. So, I need to learn how to do that real quick as well. It was bound to happen someday. Feel free to clarify things if it sounds like I have things confused. The new length from the bottom of the curve of the stirrup leather (where the actual stirrup seats) to the base of the buckle (the end of the leather where the buckle protrudes) is 11" without any modification. So, I should take that apart and shorten it some more, right? If the buckle comes too high up and touches the rigging or creates bulk where you don't want it it will need to be shortened. 11" sounds long to me. Quote Andy knight Visit My Website
Members Newfman Posted March 1, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 1, 2010 Andy When adjusting stirrup leather length the bottom end by the stirrup should never be moved. The only time that hobble strap should be removed is to clean or oil. The leathers should be slid around the bars at the top when adjusting stirrupleather length . It pays to keep them well lubricated ! You forgot. . . "...and here's your sign." I new that, but when I had everything taken apart and was trying to figure out how I was going to 'fix' this, I somehow forgot how I adjust my stirrups. That's the nice thing about the internet. You get to be stupid in perpetuity! Quote With enough leather and rope, you could probably make your horse cut a deck of cards. . .but you'll never make him deal 'em with a smile on his face!
Members Newfman Posted March 1, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 1, 2010 You would have to shorten the end where the buckle is riveted in. Shorten to as little as 10-11" So, being that I would only be shortening it about an inch to get that strap down to 11" (including the buckle) is it worth it or necessary to do this, as opposed to just adding holes or shortening it by removal of the rivets at the top of the fender and cutting the strap there? I would prefer that the buckle end be riveted and sewn, and I am willing to do that should you deem it necessary to work that end. Just making sure that it is, before I order an awl, needles, overstitch wheel, and . . . talent. Quote With enough leather and rope, you could probably make your horse cut a deck of cards. . .but you'll never make him deal 'em with a smile on his face!
Members Newfman Posted March 1, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 1, 2010 Newf, you can probably get copper rivets and burrs at most any good hardware, in the amount you need for a couple of bucks. As for a rivet setter, when setting the rivet over the burr, I use a ball peen hammer, peen side to upset the shank of the rivet till it is mushroomed to your satisfaction, then a setter to "finish" it off. Flip it over and "set the head" so it has a nice rounded surface. If you don't have a setter, you can make a couple of different sizes by taking a carridge bolt and grinding the head concave. I did this in the beginning and am still using them today. They worked so well, I just have never upgraded. As for the twist, God forbid I should give you advice that others will frown upon, but; if you don't have enough material to make the twist and wrap, just make them wet on the bottom of the fender, and leathers, put your stirrups on, attach the buckles and twist them by putting a pole through them while on your stand, without the wrap, weight them so they are tristed in riding position, and let them dry. They will take a good set, even without the wrap. Like Andy, I shoot for 2" to 2 1/2" from the bottom of the fender to the fold. Bob I just called my little hardware store in town (population 1500) and they have #9 solid Copper rivets in a variety of lengths. Whoda'thunk?! I would have never looked there. So, that brings up a new question. What is the rule of thumb for rivet shank excess, beyond the thickness of the leather? Do you just get the 1" and trim them down with dikes or something to a certain length before setting them? What is the optimal length beyond the leather for a good set, I think is a better way of asking? Quote With enough leather and rope, you could probably make your horse cut a deck of cards. . .but you'll never make him deal 'em with a smile on his face!
Members AndyKnight Posted March 1, 2010 Members Report Posted March 1, 2010 I just called my little hardware store in town (population 1500) and they have #9 solid Copper rivets in a variety of lengths. Whoda'thunk?! I would have never looked there. So, that brings up a new question. What is the rule of thumb for rivet shank excess, beyond the thickness of the leather? Do you just get the 1" and trim them down with dikes or something to a certain length before setting them? What is the optimal length beyond the leather for a good set, I think is a better way of asking? Figure on cutting off after setting the washer. I leave about a 1/16" to peen. . 3/4 " is the length I generally buy. works for almost all saddlemaking applications. Just try a couple before on some scrap. Quote Andy knight Visit My Website
Members Newfman Posted March 1, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 1, 2010 Figure on cutting off after setting the washer. I leave about a 1/16" to peen. . 3/4 " is the length I generally buy. works for almost all saddlemaking applications. Just try a couple before on some scrap. Got it, thanks Andy Quote With enough leather and rope, you could probably make your horse cut a deck of cards. . .but you'll never make him deal 'em with a smile on his face!
Members Newfman Posted March 6, 2010 Author Members Report Posted March 6, 2010 So, being that I would only be shortening it about an inch to get that strap down to 11" (including the buckle) is it worth it or necessary to do this, as opposed to just adding holes or shortening it by removal of the rivets at the top of the fender and cutting the strap there? I would prefer that the buckle end be riveted and sewn, and I am willing to do that should you deem it necessary to work that end. Just making sure that it is, before I order an awl, needles, overstitch wheel, and . . . talent. or shortening it by removal of the rivets at the top of the fender and cutting the strap there? Now that I have it taken apart, I can see that it isn't riveted up there where I thought it was. Quote With enough leather and rope, you could probably make your horse cut a deck of cards. . .but you'll never make him deal 'em with a smile on his face!
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