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BondoBobCustomSaddles

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Everything posted by BondoBobCustomSaddles

  1. Bryce, I just thought that I would drop in and see what is going on these days on this sight. Been away for a while, busy with other things. A word about your saddle. Most comments on your saddle are pretty much what I would say. The thing that stands out to me, (my opinion only) is that I would have brought the front and rear jockeys down about another couple of inches. Also, lowered the rear conchos and strings a couple of inches. With that said, then when you "pull/fit" you jockeys like RK said, (making sure they are well wetted) they will pull down tight to the tree and skirts. The horses around here that I have made saddles for usually are more in the 7/8 rigging position. Yours seems to be closer to centerfire, but; then again that is more the need of fitting it to the particular horse that you are making the saddle for. All in all you are getting it done. Nice work, remember the quality is not only in the materials, it in the details. Enoy, Bondo Bob
  2. So guess the first part of the previous note didn't make it, what I was trying to say was, pick out the hardest thing to accomplish since you have already built several saddles and know where your downfalls are, and attack it with the mindset that you can do it. I have seen your work over the years and you are ready to achieve that next level. As for cantle bindings, do a std binding with visable stitching. One trick is use not only a stitch wheel on the front, but; on the back also. Next is start an awl from the back to make an exit hole for your front awl. You will be amazed at how the front awl finds the back hole. Make a special effort to keep the amount of tension you put on each stitch the same. The result will give you a reason to be proud. It takes time and effort, but; you'll be glad you took the time to master it. Bob
  3. Ok not sure what happened to the note I had started, maybe I got it posted by accident. If so the end of the note is take your time. Once the result is what you want, you will be proud to show it off and know you won. If the front of this note didn't get posted, I will rewrite it later. Bottom line is , take your time, the result is worth the effort. Bob
  4. Hi Randy, just thought that I would drop in for a comment or two. You already have most of the you need to take it to the next step. The one thing I do is every time I pick up a piece of leather that has the edge already defined, that is cut and fitted, I give it a good go on the burnisher. Regardless of what else I am going to do with it, stamp, rivet, screw ect. By the time I am ready to assemble for the last time, the edges are where I want them to be, slick and shiny. Also, it is a personal preference, but; I always add some color to the edge, like dk brown or black to the edge of a piece to give it definition. To me it's just a more professional look. Bob
  5. Hannah, I just dropped in to see what is going on here, been off all summer, and saw this thread. Most of the advice you have gotten from the guys is spot on. It would have been great to have this forum back when I started but; that was back before dirt was invented Anyway, if you follow the guys advice you won't go wrong. Enjoy the ride! Bob
  6. Ok, first the style of this saddle is anywhere from 1880 to 1890's give or take 20 years either way. Now then, there are some if's here. If it is original and in that shape, it is amazing. It could however be a repop made any time from then till now. There are some saddlemakers out there that like to make that old timey stuff and do a good job of making it look old with corrosion on the rivets and so on. So with that said, you said that it looks to be 1940-1960's. If it were made in that time frame then it is just that, a 19something saddle made to look like the old style. Bob
  7. Nice job Billy. Clean and nicely shaped. I am sure she will kike it. Bob
  8. Hey Newf, good to see you back! I like your work, wish you were close so we could get some good pics of my stuff. All too often, I hear the comment "the pics don't do justice to the real thing" when I deliver a saddle. Look forward to seeing more of our work, and, welcome back! Bob
  9. I agree with Sioux . As for me, I quit using Tag a long time ago because I wouldn't use enough to use it all up and alas, it would sit on the shelf and get dried out. I still use saddle soap and water initially, and then die, and lots of elbow grease in between. Usually when I am working on a saddle, I will find myself picking up each piece of the saddle many times during fitting, construction , phiniftering, and final assembly. Each time I pick up a piece I give it a lick on the burnisher. By the time it all goes together, I have achieved the result I like, shiny edges. Bob
  10. Engraver Guy, first, welcome to the forum, second, your engraving is ..., well, it transcends words. Your choice of saddlemakers, and toolers to emulate, bespeaks of a great deal of experience in engraving, and a good eye. It should transfer into leather very nicely. Given your level of artistry in metal, I would suggest you try to achieve that same look in leather. By the way, one of our most notable saddlemakers, was also an engraver, Al Stohlman. Truly something to behold. Please post your work as you progress, and don't wait till it is done, pic along the way are of great interest. Enjoy the ride! Bob
  11. Just a small tip, what ever you do to clean it up, first with out regard to the back, I would lay out the patterns I want to cut and go ahead and cut them. After having done that, you know exactly what you need to clean off of the back. That way you aren't cleaning the whole side , just the pieces that need it. Sometimes, I use a propane torch on the back of some pieces and singe off the offending "friz", and then depending where it is being used, I may also use a razor skiver to "clean" it off. That hide must have come from a "lazy" cow. Bob
  12. Welcome to the forum, you will find lots of help, and sometimes it will be help to you! Maybe some humor to start your day. Enjoy the ride! Bob
  13. The problem I have with Weaver is the shipping. Not just the big stuff, but; the little stuff. Did you ever get all you need to do a project only to find at the last minute you are short a snap or some other small item? Happened to me yesterday. Went to the bin to get the small snaps I needed to finish a pair of chaps for a customer that needs them in a few days, and low and behold, I find out I am short to finish them. Don't have the time to wait till I have the next big order so I have to order 6 snaps @ $1 something each, and pay $13.36 shipping , for an $8 order! That's criminal! They could have fitted in an envelope and been shipped for a buck! That's where I get frosted! There is no need for that. Bob
  14. And so, as Big Sioux states that he would do some sanding to feather edge it and keep it from leaving a bump, so would I, however; I would, and do use , yep you guessed it, Bondo. It is easily sanded water resistant and works well in conjunction with fiberglass. That is not how I got my name, but; when in Rome, do as the Romans do! Bob
  15. Hey Ron, just a shout out to say, job well done. I really like this one, and also the pics chronologically showing the stages you went through to get there. As for the burnished edges, not a fun task, however; when done right, it is a detail you will take pride in. A little tip, when you pick up a piece to do something to it, like tool, color, fit, rivet, put it on/off and so on, stop for a minute and give it a lic or two. You will find that by the time you are assembling the saddle for the last time, all the edges seem to have miraculously become shiny! Good luck, and again, nice job. Bob
  16. Thanks for the kind words. early in this thread about 5 or 6 or so posts in I listed a facebook website she gave me that shows the saddle on the horse and her doing a little riding and some comments. Take Care, Bob
  17. Way cool Northmount. I sent this to my brother, he has a 1940 inline four Indian he has been working on for a while. Bob
  18. For all of you that do order from Weaver, whether or not it is a lot, be sure to verify that they have it logged to your account/name . I checked today on line web to see just how much I have spent with them this year, just for kicks, and found that they only had my latest order listed in the website under my account. Need to get that rectified if they are going to require minimum spending level to qualify for wholesale pricing! Bob
  19. Being both a horseman and biker, I can say from both worlds, really nice work! Rider will get a lot of questions about this set. Just hope the bike is as nice as the part is butt will be covering! Bob
  20. Western Dressage riders are a new breed around here. They are still looking to find their way. So far, from what I can see, they are taking their que' from Traditional Dressage riders who are of the Jocken Schlese school of thought. I do agree that like Toot says in an earlier post, a little rearward promotes better, position and balance for the novice, which helps prevent "accidents". So far, for those that I have built them that way at their request, especially Women, I am getting great reviews. It is interesting to note that the one I built for the lady in this post while it looks similar to her husbands', his was built with traditional stirrup placing and he wouldn't have it any other way. Matter of preference I guess. Bob
  21. As for Circle Y, a long time ago I was doing a lot of horn repairs on Circle Y saddles around here. the top and bottom were just glued and stitched to the horn, no filler tacked to the actual horn for strength. Anyway I was doing so many, I called them to see if I could become a factory repair station in MI. The answer was no, just send it back and they will fix them for a fee and shipping. I will be surprised if they give you anything more than that. Bob
  22. Sorry to hear about the accident Barry. Here's hoping for a full and speedy recovery. Oh yea, by the way make sure to drag it out long enough to get you wife to give you some special care. Bob
  23. I don't make many guitar straps, but; I have made some for friends, and I used sheep skin. The owner of this one was especially pleased and he has been pickin' since our Vietnam days together.
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